I would definitely give it a watch.Oddly enough, a video on RAS has been recommended to me for the past few weeks. I haven't watched it yet, so maybe this thread is a sign that I should
Always enjoy a good story. Love to hear itYou will find this book helpful:
How to Master the Radial Saw by Wally Kunkel.
As Kunkel says, it is more of a manual than a book
I believe you have to order it from the family.
I have a 12" Original Saw. And there's a story behind it I'll share some time. I rebuilt the table per Kunkel's guides.
I give all my tools the respect they deserve. Spent 6 years working in an ER and the most common tools that caused injuries were nail guns and hammers. I think I’ve pulled more nails out of people than some people have put nails in wood.When I first started making stuff in my Dad's workshop, I was so intimidated by the tablesaw. I'd read all the bad stories of ppl losing fingers, getting yanked into the blade, kickback, etc.
Dad once said, "If you're afraid of a machine, don't use it". So, it was years before I did.
In the meantime, I learned to use his RAS, and found it to be all that I needed [at the time]; and, I've always felt comfortable using it. These days I use it primarily for cutting long stock down to size, dadoes, and half laps.
Rip using the TS.
I think a lot of it is just mental. Think about how easy it is to get a "paper cut". No one would consider a notepad to be dangerous.
That said, when I started ripping, I figured that the blade would be less likely to throw a board back if I "buried" the tip.
I would cut a slot in a piece of 1" plywood panel. Set up blade for ripping. Orient piece against the fence and side blade into slot. Clamp board to table. This way, @ least 1" of tip is NOT pushing back at board.
If I were to do it now, I'd sticker the panel ( or build shallow box) to raise "table" enuff to bury the tip 1.5" - 2". This way more of the teeth are pushing "up" and,... less "back." O'course, I'd still use the anti-kickback pawl.
** With a box setup, a vacuum hose could be fitted in to clear dust.
Could someone please explain why the RAS is dangerous. That is NOT a sarcastic question. It seems to be a given, but I don’t understand. I have never used one. Thanks.
ThanksWhen cross-cutting, the blade spins in a clock-wise direction, towards the operator. The motor pulls itself into the work, so you have to hold the motor back from running towards you. This is why the proper blade designed for RAS is a necessity.
When turning the motor assembly for rip operations, there is a large potential for injury as your hands get nearer to the blade. With rip operations, you are pushing the work into the blade, much like you do with a tables.
My dad had one when I was growing up, so I got comfortable in using one, I got a newer one when I built my shop 3 years ago.