TIP: attaching paper templates (band saw, scroll saw, etc.)

[Sully]

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[rcflyer23]

I do almost the same thing except I do attach the template to the wood with spray cement and then wrap the whole thing in packing tape. If there is a particularly hard spot to get off I will use a heat gun to help things along. I had thought about trying it your way but was worried about the paper slipping with the tape being so slick on the top side.

I will have to give this a try now.

Thanks for posting.

 

[Douglas Robinson]

Jay:

Good idea. I know of the same technique for protecting forms during glue up. The forms are covered in packing tape so that any glue that seeps out does not build up on the form. As you say clean up is then a breeze.

Doug

 

[clowman]

I just did some scroll sawing, and I put the blue painters tape on instead of packing tape. It left no residue behind at all. I like that much better than applying the spray glue on the wood. Down side, is that the blue tape is a bit pricy.

 

[Joe Scharle]

Hurry and send that in as a tip to the mags.
I submit to all of them and they can see the other email recipients, except Woodsmith/Shopsmith which have a web page for submissions.

 

[PChristy]

Packing tape is not a bad idea - It does lubricate your blade and that is good - Put IMHO it is not good to put on if you are working on a piece that will take you several days if not weeks to complete - the glue on the tape seems to adhere more if left on to long - I do like the painters tape as well but if you are doing something that is very frigile then getting that little bitty piece of tape off to me is a pain. With most of my portraits that I do I spray the back of the pattern wait a few minutes then apply the pattern directly to the wood - when I am ready to take it off I apply a generous amount of Mineral Spirits and let it set until it turns gray then it peels right off - it there is any residue on the piece I soak a cloth and carefully rub it down M2CW

 

[Sully]

Hurry and send that in as a tip to the mags.
I submit to all of them and they can see the other email recipients, except Woodsmith/Shopsmith which have a web page for submissions.

I sent it in last week to a couple of magazines. :icon_thum

J

 

[SteveHall]

A few tricks I've learned with spray adhesive over the years:

1. Not all spray adhesives are created equal. Stickiness and open/work time vary greatly among brands and models. Some are designed for good adhesion, while others are designed for art that might be de-mounted at a future date. "Spray Mount" is a common name for lower tack adhesive used for art.

2. Spray the paper, not the wood. This reduces the amount of liquid glue that contacts the wood. Only the drier, congealed, less sticky glue will contact it.

3. Experiment with drying times. There are numerous variables to drying time:
* The adhesive brand/model
* Room temperature
* Room humidity
* Product temperature
* Work temperature
* Application thickness (how much you put on!)

4. Experiment with application thickness. A light coat may not have as much initial tack as a heavy coat, but it may dry too fast to get to the low tack portion of the drying.

I've experienced 30 second to 15 minute or more drying times depending all these variables, and a single can of adhesive can produce wildly different results. Also, longer drying times usually imply better dimensional stability which is important to a pattern. A heavy coat of super gooey adhesive will wrinkle paper much worse than a light layer of low tack in my experience... not good if you're trying to cut wooden clock gears.

 

[ErnieM]

I often have to use long paper templates (36" x 3/4" roughly). I've never used spray adhesive but I think maybe I should. Has anybody ever done a before and after measurement of a template before and after gluing it down with spray adhesive? Adhering the template with yellow glue or hide glue adds too much moisture to the paper and my templates "grow" about 1/8" over the 36" span. Does anyone know the moisture content of spray adhesives?

Ernie

 

[woodylarry]

I don't do much scrolling, so I've never had the opportiunity to try it but I saw a tip in woodsmith ( I think?) where you take a photcopy of the pattern and put the black ink side toward the wood and hot iron over it. Ink transfers to the wood. Prolly doesn't work so well on dark colored wood?

 

[ScottM]

EXTREME care is need when using packing tape or even painter's tape on wood. If used on baltic birch or other plywoods you WILL get fibers lifting off with the tape. :BangHead: Same issue can occur with splated wood. :BangHead::BangHead: It will be ok on most solid wood.

BTW this idea has been in the scroll magazines for years. Don't spend you money too quickly.

 

[LeftyTom]

What about using stencil adhesive? The stuff isn't super sticky, and supposedly you can spay the stencil once & move it a couple of times before needing re-spray.