Thoughts on De-humidificaton of spraying/finishing room???

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RainMaker

New User
Tony
I don't want to re-invent the wheel; so I thought I would ask you guys....

Humidity here in eastern NC can be a real bear sometimes. I giving thought to providing for a de-humidifier in a room dedicated to spraying & finishing. Have any of you done this; and if so, was the benefit as great as I'm hoping it will be?

What would be the ideal humidity level and/or dew point?

Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Tony
 

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
A dehumidifier works by pulling air through it and extracting the moisture. So if you put it in a dedicated finishing room, you might want to filter the air before it goes through the dehumidifier. Otherwise you'll wind up w/ lots of finish in it. :tongue2:


Also, w/ the amount of humidity we have here in NC, your drain bucket will fill up quickly. So you can either plan on emptying it frequently, or attach a hose to it and let it run into a floor drain, or outside.

HTH

Bill
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
Tony , If you are planning on wiping on or brushing on a finish then a dehumidifier would be helpful. However if you are spraying, then I must assume you are venting the room and the makeup air is going to be at whatever humidity level it is coming from and a dehumidifier in the finish room would not do much. In my new shop I have a fan that pulls air from the main shop into the finish room and then a vent for the fumes outside .. so the humidity of the finish room air will quickly be whatever the level is in the main shop. In other words if you spray and vent, you need to dehumidify the space where the air will be pulled from, not the room itself
 

Tarhead

Mark
Corporate Member
What finishes are you using? Are you having any issues with blushing now? For solvent based Lacquer you have a few options. Spray a fine spray of thinner over the final coat and see if it goes away. If not add some retarder to the thinner and try that. If it's still a problem after that there are blush eliminators in rattle cans you can try over the final coat. If blushing is still a problem switch to a conversion varnish or a water based finish.
 

BSHuff

New User
Brian
Instead of straight dehumidifying, have you thought of putting an air conditioner in which will dehumidify and cool at the same time? Solves 2 of your problems... other than you will finish the same thing over and over
 

RainMaker

New User
Tony
Thank you for your ideas and suggestions.

I've had some success in the past using Mark's suggestions; it just gets to be a pain.... you're laying down what really looks like a nice finish.... and then things start getting ugly... and I find myself scrammbling trying to correct it hoping everything will turn out okay.

Maybe it's just me... but it seems that I'm getting more requests for painted finishes... it's not easy watching paint dry. Hence the idea about de-humidifying the air.

I really liked Brian's idea.... air condition the shop... it's gonna take a really good marketing plan to sell my wife on that idea... she already thinks I'm spending way too much time piddling around out there in the shop.

Tony
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
I'm certainly a proponent of shop dehumidification. However, the jobs of cooling (A/C) and dehumidification are best left to dedicated devices UNLESS you intend to run your shop A/C 24x7 AND are willing to put up with high/uncontrolled humidity during periods where it is too cool for the A/C to run enough to adequately dehumidify the shop -- hence my preference for dedicated devices.

With separate devices you can leave the dehumidifier set at a specific humidity and leave it to run 24x7 regardless of season. It will keep the shop at a stable humidity and reduce unwanted wood movement and keep your wood stock (at least that portion within your shop) at stable moisture content. If you dehumidify your entire shop, you will also notice a near immediate benefit in the form of greatly reduce rust and corrosion. I used to have to polish my cast iron surfaces almost monthly, with a dehumidifier it is more like every 1-2 years that I polish everything. I keep my shop at around 40%RH for maximum comfort, however any setting between 40-50%RH will greatly reduce rusting and maintain optimal moisture content levels in your stored wood.

However, when spray finishing you will have to turn off the dehumidifier (and A/C) to avoid drawing in any overspray (and possibly combustible fumes). However, if you were using proper (fan-forced) ventilation then they can be powered back on just as soon as you finish spraying. For brush-on applications they can be left running during the paint/finish application (provided any combustible fumes are ventilated). Once powered back on they will begin stabilizing the temperature (A/C or heat) and dehumidifying the work area.

You will want to opt for a large/high-capacity dehumidifier (50-70 liters/day) both for their improved efficiency (the larger units are much more efficient than the smaller units) but also so that the dehumidifier has the capacity to pull down the humidity as quickly as possible. Your energy savings over the course of a couple years will more than pay for the difference in cost between these larger units and the smaller/cheaper 25-pint/day units. If you don't wish to empty the dehumidifier's bucket up to several times each day, then you will either want to attach a drain hose and direct it towards a gravity-fed drainage point OR you can use an external pump that can accept the collected moisture in a temporary reservoir and then periodically purge the reservoir (under pressure) which, in my case, means up and out a window since I have no handy drain (in recent years Lowes has carried the pump accessory).
 
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