The switch on my DC is kaput (DIY remote installed)

[MarkE]

Went to turn on my Oneida DC this morning and got nothing. I opened up the switch box and found several melted wires. Took a quick trip to Lowes and picked up a 30 amp DPST switch and wired it in. Got the DC working again with that temporary fix.

I can get a new magnetic switch from Grizzly for around $90.00, just not sure if I can get the remote control from the Oneida switch to work with the Grizzly switch. Oneida wants almost $300.00 for a replacement switch!

I know several members here have come up with some good remote control solutions. Sure would like to see those and find out what works and how to get them set up.

 

[gator]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput

If you just want to turn it off and on, the Long Ranger (comes in 110 and 220) has worked well for me.

George

 

[junquecol]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput

Get a 30 amp rated contactor, with a 110 volt coil (Johnstone Supply, Grainger.) Control the coil with either a "Christmas tree light control," or a sensor located in panel box. I have the sensor, and love it. I never have to think about turning DC off or on. Plus because the sensor is mounted in panel box, I can't loose it:icon_cheers! With sensor, add a "cube timer" to allow DC to run an additional 10 seconds to clear the pipes. Total cost of parts, about $100

 

[MarkE]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput

Get a 30 amp rated contactor, with a 110 volt coil (Johnstone Supply, Grainger.) Control the coil with either a "Christmas tree light control," or a sensor located in panel box. I have the sensor, and love it. I never have to think about turning DC off or on. Plus because the sensor is mounted in panel box, I can't loose it:icon_cheers! With sensor, add a "cube timer" to allow DC to run an additional 10 seconds to clear the pipes. Total cost of parts, about $100

Can you tell me more about this?

The DC is 240 volts, don't I need a 240 volt contactor/coil? What kind of sensor are you using? Does the sensor detect when you turn on a tool and then turn on the DC?

 

[MarkE]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput

Could I use something like this?

Furnas 42CF35AG 3P, 40A, 240v Definite Purpose Contactor

 

[MarkE]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput

This looks like it would work. I already have a bunch of X-10 appliance modules and wireless remotes.

http://www.smarthome.com/72800/Elk-...ctured-Wiring-Panel-Enclosure-Elk-9200/p.aspx


Automate High Current Devices such as Water Heaters, Pool Pump and Motorized Gates

 

[bobby g]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput

Mark,

Since you have the remote controlled X10 receptacle, all you need to add is a 2 pole, 30 amp contactor with a 120 volt coil (one like this although you can probably find less expensive brands). Get a junction box (from Lowes) and mount the contactor and appropriate receptacle. Add a 240 volt line cord and connect the hot wires to the contactor input lugs and carry the ground wire to the receptacle ground. Wire the output lugs to the receptacle. Add a 120 volt line cord to the coil and plug it into your X10 device. If you use a metallic junction box, make sure that you ground it to the supply ground. This will probably cost less than $40.

bobby g

 

[MarkE]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput

I picked up a contactor from City Electric Supply in Fuquay-Varina. Here are pictures of all four sides and one from the top looking down.

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The connections for the coil are pretty obvious (the silver lugs on each side), but, there are no markings on this contactor to indicate line or load side. How do I know which side is for the line in 240 volts from the outlet and which side is the load out 240 volts to the motor? Or does it even matter? It's just a switch right?

If I have this figured out correctly:
1) plug the 120 volt cord from the X10 controller to the coil lugs, black on one side and white on the opposite side.

2) connect the two hot leads from the 240 outlet to the two copper lugs on one end of the contactor.

3)connect the two hot leads going to the motor to the two copper lugs on the opposite end of the contactor.

4) connect the 240 volt ground wires together.

5) connect the 120 volt ground wire to the metal junction box? Not sure about this one, but it couldn't hurt, right?

Forgot to pick up a deep junction box, so I am off to Lowes. I'll check this thread again when I get back to see if I am off base with my assumptions.

 

[bobby g]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput (please check my wiring assumptions)

Mark,

Yep on the wiring as you described it and yes,it's just a switch. Line to one side and load to the other. You want to make sure the metal enclosure is grounded no matter what the application. If a hot wire came loose, you want to make sure the box doesn't become live and a shock hazard. Connect the grounds together along with a wire that's properly connected to the enclosure.


BTW, I'll buy the Oneida remote transmitter from you if you want to get rid of it.

bobby g

 

[zapdafish]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput (please check my wiring assumptions)

phew, proves it isn't my presence in your shop that breaks things :gar-La;

 

[farmerbw]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput (please check my wiring assumptions)

I'm interested in seeing some in progress wiring pics if you have the time since I'm thinking of doing this myself. :eusa_pray

Brian.

 

[MarkE]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput (please check my wiring assumptions)

phew, proves it isn't my presence in your shop that breaks things :gar-La;

Yeah... This time! :wsmile:

 

[MarkE]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput (please check my wiring assumptions)

Mark,

Yep on the wiring as you described it and yes,it's just a switch. Line to one side and load to the other. You want to make sure the metal enclosure is grounded no matter what the application. If a hot wire came loose, you want to make sure the box doesn't become live and a shock hazard. Connect the grounds together along with a wire that's properly connected to the enclosure.


BTW, I'll buy the Oneida remote transmitter from you if you want to get rid of it.

bobby g

Thanks Bob.

Had to go to Ace Hardware to get a box+extension that was deep enough for this contactor. Lowes had nothing (metal) that it would fit in to.

I have 2 remote fobs and I also pulled the remote receiver out of the old switch. I had just put the remote receiver in to the switch box a short while ago because the one that was in there stopped working. Let me know if you want any or all of these pieces and parts. Maybe we can work a trade?

 

[MarkE]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput (please check my wiring assumptions)

I'm interested in seeing some in progress wiring pics if you have the time since I'm thinking of doing this myself. :eusa_pray

Brian.

I'll take some pics as I get this thing wired up. I'll post them if it works. :gar-La;

 

[junquecol]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput

Can you tell me more about this?

The DC is 240 volts, don't I need a 240 volt contactor/coil? What kind of sensor are you using? Does the sensor detect when you turn on a tool and then turn on the DC?

Mark, I use multiwire branch circuits in my shop. Each machine circuit has a hot that passes thru sensor. When it detects current traveling thru conductor, sensor trips on relay to DC. When current ceases, cube time takes over and runs DC for about 10 seconds to clear pipes. The relay you show from Amazon is a 3 pole rated for 220, but it doesn't say anything about coil voltage. You can use either a 2 pole, which breaks both hots, or a single pole which breaks only one of the hots. Both types are used in AC equipment.

 

[MarkE]

Re: The switch on my DC is kaput (please check my wiring assumptions)

Well I got totally frustrated trying to get this switch set-up last night so I gave up and ordered the PSI Long Ranger Heavy Duty Pro remote switch.

Today I had to try one more time to get the DIY switch put together. I grab a chunk of 3/4" plywood and mounted a switch box and ran in the wires for the 240 volt power.

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Next to that I mounted a 4" box. Ran in the output wires from the switch box and the 120 volt power cord that will energize the contactor coil.

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Got the double pole switch wired and mounted in the first box.

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Then I mounted the plywood to the wall behind the dust collector. Got the contactor wired up and mounted in the 4" box.

The power cord on top is the 120 volt trigger circuit. The black and white wires are attached to the coil leads on the sides of the contactor.

The power cord on the left side is the incoming 240 volt power wire coming from the switch box. The black and white wires are attached to the upper left lugs on the contactor.

The power cord on the right is the outgoing 240 volt circuit to the DC motor. The black and white wires are attached to the lower right lugs on the contactor.

All three green ground wires are attached with a ring terminal connector that is screwed to the plywood through the metal base of the contactor and the 4" box.

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Kind of hard to see in this picture, but, this is the 120 volt trigger wire plugged into an X10 appliance module.

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This is the X10 wireless receiver module that gets the signal from the remote transmitter and sends it through the shop wiring to the appliance module. This can be plugged in to any outlet in the shop.

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I had to add an extension to the 4" box since the contactor was too tall for a standard size box. I also put a switch plate cover on the off switch.

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I added the double pole switch so I could cut the power to the DC completely when I leave the shop. Didn't want any stray signals getting picked up by the X10 system and turning on the DC when I wasn't in the shop. It's never happened in all the years I have used X10, but, what the heck, better safe than sorry.

Oh yeah, It works like a charm! :eusa_danc

When I got done for the day I found a package waiting on the front steps with the PSI switch inside. After all of this, I am probably going to use the PSI switch instead. But, at least I got it to work. Maybe someone else can use it?

 

[MarkE]

I guess it's a good thing that I finished the DIY setup after all. Opened up the PSI Long Ranger box and found loose parts and some damage, so back to Amazon it goes.

I am going to replace the X-10 control with a remote controlled outlet. The only X10 wireless controllers that I had left are the big (2-3/4" x 4-1/2") four button type. The wireless remote outlet I ordered has a small key-chain remote that I can attach to my shop apron. It has a 150' range, according to the description.

 

[bobby g]

Mark,

I guess you were just destined to save money! I have used the fob sized X10 remotes and they had a good range.

bobby g

 

[MarkE]

I was using X10 as the remote for my old dust collector. I had one of the small 2 button fobs on the tablesaw fence. Can't find that fob anymore. Probably gave it and the 240 volt X10 module away when I sold the dust collector.

The wireless outlet I ordered cost a little less than a small X10 transmitter. With that outlet I only need to use one shop outlet instead of two for the X10 appliance module and the wireless receiver module.

 

[bobby g]

Mark,

What's the SKU for the socket?

bobby g