There are two things that will cause wood to bow, twist, and cup and those are internal stresses (either in kiln drying, known as case hardening, or in the original growth conditions), known as reaction wood, and changes in the internal moisture level due to varying humidity levels in storage. There is nothing you can do or change in reaction wood, you just have to accept such boards for what they are and deal with it (sometimes it is better to cut such up into short or narrow pieces, glue back together, and then joint and plane, if such is a board you really want, or need, to use).
However, in a shop without a stable humidity level the wood towards the interior will always lag well behind the wood on the exterior with respect to changes in shop/storage humidity (as does wood towards the outer ends of a board). This means there will be a variation in the wood's moisture content at the different levels of thickness. When you suddenly remove significant wood from the outside of the board you suddenly expose the interior wood to a new humidity level it has not seen before and the wood begins either giving up moisture or absorbing such as it tries to achieve equilibrium. In such cases, the ring pattern of a board will tell the story, provided you can visualize such (it helps to view the endgrain as well as face grain patterns), but most of the expansion and contraction occurs within the planes defined by each layer of the rings and much less so between rings, which is why quartersawn wood is so much more stable, a wider ring will experience more change in width than a shorter ring as there are more cells.
It often helps to remove equal amounts of wood, during joining and planing, from each side of the board to help stabilize boards a bit by trying to ensure equal (as best as possible) stresses on each side of the board, but even such will not avoid all issues as the response is always governed by the board's unique ring and face grain patterns, but cathedral fiatsawn boards are most susceptible to such issues because of their arching ring pattern (as seen from the endgrain). In uncontrolled environments in which much wood must be removed, it is often helpful to remove no more than half to two-thirds of your intended thickness in a single day, then allow the wood a few days to several weeks to equalize a bit before removing the remaining thickness through jointing and planing to help reduce unwanted twisting, cupping, and bowing, but such only helps to reduce such, it does not fully eliminate the behavior if humidity is constantly changing in your shop.
The good news is that some of the cupping, twisting, and bowing may (or may not) subside over the span of a few weeks or months as levels equalize again, or it may actually worsen depending upon how much the internal moisture levels must change and how the wood was removed. This is one of the things that makes working in a humidity controlled shop (dehumidifier) so wonderful as, over time, all of your wood stock in the shop will eventually reach an even moisture level through and through and your cut and milled pieces will not react unpredictably due to moisture changes from one day, or month, to the next -- the lack of rusting tools is also nice, as well, and the shop environment is considerably more comfortable as well. Only reaction wood will still give you those headaches, but such is much less common than moisture issues. All of which assumes, of course, that you are storing your wood in the shop because if you bring the wood into the shop to use only on demand then its moisture will once again reflect the environment it was stored in as it can take a year, or more, per inch of thickness to fully reach equilibrium in a humidity controlled shop.
