Thanks Insomniac for Tip

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Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
This arrived in the mail Fri PM just 4 days after I bought it thanks to a heads-up from Insomniac. Most of the reddish stuff is corrosion preventive, not rust. I feel its not bad for $40.30 total cost delivered to my door. (Also- My first ever E-bay purchase)

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No6Btm.jpg


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Monty

New User
Monty
Looks really good! If I recall correctly from that ebay post, it has a SW blade, right? No date (that I can see) in the bed... raised ring under the front knob... no rib casting on the heel/toe... I'm gonna peg this one as a TYPE 15!!!! Congratulations! You just scored a plane from an era that many would consider the crème de la crème of the Stanley type study! :mrgreen:
 
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Gofor

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Sorry for the double post but after inserting the last image it would not let me add that I have been workin on it a bit. I can't tell if its a 14 Study or 15 due to the location of the "Made in USA"

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but the main thing is that after some effort, it works!!

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Monty

New User
Monty
NICE, NICE, NICE!!! You're gonna guilt-trip me into fixing up my No 6 and trying it out!
 
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Gofor

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
A question: How do you shape your irons? As received, this one was rounded back 1/8" from center (looked like it was used a s a scrub plane). Because it also had quite a bit of reverse bevel on the flat side, especially on the corners, I now have it rounded back about 1/64", which is working well for flattening boards, but the outer edges (1/4") will have to go back another 3/16" before I can get a true flat surface across the entire blade. For jointing, tho, I am thinking a square edge will be best. Guess I need to look for another blade (or another plane!! #7 maybe!! Didn't get to the one you posted in time).

Guess I'm on the slippery slope!

Thanks for the help, info and compliments:lol:
 

Monty

New User
Monty
hehehe... yea you'll need at least a few more planes for sure! If you intend to use this plane for edge jointing, I would just make the edge straight all the way across. Break the corners slightly if you want to do face planing. Charlesworth advises using a slight radius regardless, even when edge jointing, that way you can use either the middle or the left half or the right half of the blade to correct any slight imperfections in the angle of your edge. No matter what, 1/8" is way too much!!!
 

woodguy1975

New User
John
insomniac said:
hehehe... yea you'll need at least a few more planes for sure! If you intend to use this plane for edge jointing, I would just make the edge straight all the way across. Break the corners slightly if you want to do face planing. Charlesworth advises using a slight radius regardless, even when edge jointing, that way you can use either the middle or the left half or the right half of the blade to correct any slight imperfections in the angle of your edge. No matter what, 1/8" is way too much!!!

The optimal rounding for a blade is like .003". You should grind it straight and then work the rounding back in.

Good Luck,

John
 
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Gofor

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Thanks for the tip John. Mine is at about ".015 now, so I'll flatten it out more. I have seen references saying "arc with an 8" radius" which on a 2 3/8" wide iron results in over 1/16". I could not believe that would be worthwhile unless it was for some pretty rough work.
Thinking about it, .003 makes more sense to me, as it would give an optimum shaving across the entire iron for flattening work without an edge mark., but would be almost imperceptable jointing the edge of a nominal "1 x" piece.
Now to see if my eyeballs can discern .003":lol:
 
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