table top problem

[Tom from Clayton]

I finished the top of a small cherry table with 3 coats of Arm-R-Seal gloss about 2 months ago but messed it up a bit. It has a small area where it looks like the finish pooled before drying. It can only be seen when the light is just right and can hardly be felt at all. Tried taking a picture but nothing showed up. Nonetheless, it isn't right. My question is what is the best way to repair it? I would rather not strip it back to wood so that leaves sanding or using a card scraper but I'm open to any suggestions at this point. I'm assuming that whatever I do I'll have to do to the entire top which is just short of 21" X 48". Thanks for the help.

Tom

 

[jlimey]

I would scrape the spot as you suggest to level the surface. I would then take 320 grit sandpaper and scuff sand the entire surface. Another coat of Arm-r-Seal will put you back in business. ADDED step : I forgot a step in my finishing process with Arm-R-Seal which is to use 0000 steel wool to even the sheen on all surfaces before the final coat. THEN, On my final coat of this product, I put on a coat and wipe it off after several seconds and buff it with a clean rag or fine abrasive on a RO sander. Feels smooth as can be.

 

[Jeff]

It has a small area where it looks like the finish pooled before drying. It can only be seen when the light is just right and can hardly be felt at all.

"Pooling" suggests that small area is lower than the surrounding surface...like a ding with a hammer. That makes everything else a high spot and leveling the entire surface do make it even with the low spot is a point of diminishing returns!

 

[schnable]

I finished the top of a small cherry table with 3 coats of Arm-R-Seal gloss about 2 months ago but messed it up a bit. It has a small area where it looks like the finish pooled before drying. It can only be seen when the light is just right and can hardly be felt at all. Tried taking a picture but nothing showed up. Nonetheless, it isn't right. My question is what is the best way to repair it? I would rather not strip it back to wood so that leaves sanding or using a card scraper but I'm open to any suggestions at this point. I'm assuming that whatever I do I'll have to do to the entire top which is just short of 21" X 48". Thanks for the help.

Tom

A single sided razor blade makes very handy scraper for drips and smaller high spots like this. Scrap, sand, spot refinish.

Andrew

 

[Tarhead]

A single sided razor blade makes very handy scraper for drips and smaller high spots like this. Scrap, sand, spot refinish.

Andrew

If you drag the edge of the razor blade over the side of a burnisher/screwdriver/other hard steel rod to create a micro burr and round off the corners on a grinder it will work faster.

 

[Jeff]

Apparently I missed the OP's point using his term "pooling"? :confused_

So the area to be scraped is higher than the surrounding surface like a bubble (i.e., convex) and not a shallow spot like a surface ding which would be concave? :icon_scra

 

[jlimey]

Apparently I missed the OP's point using his term "pooling"? :confused_

So the area to be scraped is higher than the surrounding surface like a bubble (i.e., convex) and not a shallow spot like a surface ding which would be concave? :icon_scra

Jeff, the OP never explicitly stated, so you may still be right! I took it as a high spot and given that Tom likes the posts with that assumption, I'm sticking with it.

 

[Tom from Clayton]

Correct. It's as if I put too much finish on and didn't smooth it out properly and it pooled and dried with definite edges. I plan on taking Jeff's advice and using a scraper followed by 320 grit as soon as I get a round tuit - maybe later this summer. I finished the top in the winter and my garage/shop is kind of a disaster during the winter because i have to make room for a car and lighting isn't the best. Thanks for all the advice. I'll let you know how it turns out and may even figure out how to post a picture or two.

Tom

 

[garymuto]

i've never scraped a fresh finish before so I would be interested in hearing about your success. I usually work with General Finishes Water based finishes. I can sand them by hand in 30 minutes or by machine in 2 hours with no issues.

I have used Arm-R-Seal in the past and lightely sanded after the first coat. I would wait 3 days to sand or scrape in any case as the oil takes longer to cure. Maybe longer if you have a thick coat in the pooled area.

Best of Luck.

 

[Tom from Clayton]

Gary, the finish is several months old. I'm finally getting to it as it was low on my to do list.

 

[Jeff]

Jeff, the OP never explicitly stated, so you may still be right! I took it as a high spot and given that Tom likes the posts with that assumption, I'm sticking with it.

Ok and thanks to Tom for the clarification so I'm now on the same page. Carry on and let us know how it turns it along with "practice" pics too.

 

[garymuto]

Gary, the finish is several months old. I'm finally getting to it as it was low on my to do list.

Oh! well I guess it's cured. I've been thinking about this and I like the idea of controlled scraping in the pooled area followed by saning overall to remove scratches and blend it in without burning through. I just don't have direct experience.