Table saw
- Thread starter Rjgooden
- Start date
I am gonna pm you
Just be sure it has a riving knife!
I know you are looking used so budget is a concern. If Casey can;t fix you up, do look at Harvey.
They seem to have re-done their line. Larger tables, include their expensive Compass miter and overarm dust collection.
Their 2 HP is under 2K. 3 HP, ( like mine) is just a bit more. Of course, everything is just a bit more! Same trunnion as my C-300 ( slightly better made Grizzly 690) with several small features I wish mine had. Might see if I can retrofit.
I know you are looking used so budget is a concern. If Casey can;t fix you up, do look at Harvey.
They seem to have re-done their line. Larger tables, include their expensive Compass miter and overarm dust collection.
Their 2 HP is under 2K. 3 HP, ( like mine) is just a bit more. Of course, everything is just a bit more! Same trunnion as my C-300 ( slightly better made Grizzly 690) with several small features I wish mine had. Might see if I can retrofit.
Love my Harvey Alpha T ablesaw saw, lots of great features for the money.
Contact @Stuart Kent to see if he still is
I very much like mine. I debated the SawStop as it is a very good saw, but use my BS ( Harvey C-14) more and more, almost always use a jig or sled so I consider the riving knife to be the 90% safety fix. My Ridgid did not have one and it scared me several times. I also really liked the Powermatic ( always dreamed of one) but the price over the Harvey was too much. I liked some of the features of the Laguna F3 saw, but the top distance from front to blade was really short.
They don't make a premade phenolic zero clearance inserts for the my Harvey, but the Powermatic one fits, just needing a mod to the slot. Harvey wants too much for theirs. You can always DIY. I made a few small mods to the fence lock to make it smoother and put end stops on the rails. Added a Wixie digital fence scale and I never use it. I think it will come off and sell and I will make a rail with multiple adjustable stops for repeat cuts. The only other thing I would change is to convert the T fence to an L. That would give me almost 6 inches more width. Mine is the old 27 inch top standard. As I had an iron 27 inch router wing, I wanted to stick with 27. But then, when I re-did my shop, my router is back on the left side behind the saw so it would not have mattered.
Of course, older Unisaws are a kind of benchmark and they can be retrofitted with a riving knife. I will not use a saw without one.
The pivot trunnion saws, Harvey included, run multiple V-belts. First, Chinese belts are crap though you can replace them, but they always will take a set. The higher end saws now run the multi-rib belts which are smoother running and do not take as much of a set. The higher end "dovetail" trunnion saws have an advantage of the center of the blade not moving so you can mark the center. Makes setting height easier. Not a big deal.
Harvey sells direct. No dealers. Might talk to them and see if they will deal.
Buy the tool you want, and swallow the price. This is my third table saw, so two were wasted money. Third band saw, same. Second planer and it is a compromise, but I doubt I will buy the Powermatic I want. Should have kept my first Delta miter saw ( Hate my Ridgid) but I am happy with my 6 inch Jointer. No room for a bigger one anyway. Thought I was being clever buying a older Delta drill press. Total waste of money. Should have bought the Palmgren or Jet. If you have a table top, you want a job-site. If you have a job site, you want a hybrid. If you get a hybrid, you find you wanted the cabinet saw all along. In simple terms, the cheapest tool is the right tool. It also may be just be, but I feel more confident and safer on the bigger and heavier the tool. A trust factor that any mistake is me, not the tool.
I would go for A 3 hp, 220 SAW. 2hp is not much of an upgrade. My 1 3/4 Ridgid did everything I wanted, but only with a thin kerf blade. I prefer to stick with full kerf for smoother cuts and I can use the blade guard as it is full kerf. Funny, no one seems to offer a thin kerf blade guard.
You are welcome to come see how mine works. Washington does seem like a long haul.
I have a 1 3/4 horse SawStop contractor saw with all the bells and whistles (cast wings, mobile base, good fence), and sincerely regret the purchase.
In the past I've had a General 350 3hp and a Delta/Rockwell contractor saw ("direct drive") and both were more capable saws than the CNS. I really wanted the riving knife and the safety features of the SawStop, but 1 3/4 horses is a very generous rating for it when you consider that it just overloads with any moderately thick cuts at a slow feed rate. The fit and finish is excellent, but the tool is--being generous--underwhelming. Maybe not a popular opinion, and not one that I'm glad to hold (the tool was not cheap).
I won't buy anything but a 3hp or more saw in the future, unless purchasing a portable saw to bring to jobs. I'd maybe buy a 3hp Sawstop, but only if the price was right and I had the opportunity to use it beforehand.
In the past I've had a General 350 3hp and a Delta/Rockwell contractor saw ("direct drive") and both were more capable saws than the CNS. I really wanted the riving knife and the safety features of the SawStop, but 1 3/4 horses is a very generous rating for it when you consider that it just overloads with any moderately thick cuts at a slow feed rate. The fit and finish is excellent, but the tool is--being generous--underwhelming. Maybe not a popular opinion, and not one that I'm glad to hold (the tool was not cheap).
I won't buy anything but a 3hp or more saw in the future, unless purchasing a portable saw to bring to jobs. I'd maybe buy a 3hp Sawstop, but only if the price was right and I had the opportunity to use it beforehand.
I upgraded from a DeWalt jobsite table saw to a nice 3hp PCS SawStop. Was the $$$$ (price) a hefty pill to swallow? Sure was, but I tell ya, after my initial issue with my SS, I received a brand new replacement and it has been a VERY VERY nice table saw since.
At times I can't tell that it is cutting any wood.. it is so quite and cuts like a hot knife through butter. I recommend 3HP or bust... IF you plan on doing woodworking for a "long" time.
Consider it an investment..
Again.. just my opinion and 2 cents.
At times I can't tell that it is cutting any wood.. it is so quite and cuts like a hot knife through butter. I recommend 3HP or bust... IF you plan on doing woodworking for a "long" time.
Consider it an investment..
Again.. just my opinion and 2 cents.
I have a 3HP PCS cabinet saw, and i have not issues with power delivery. You are welcome to come up to my shop sometime to check it out. I am in King.
Thank you! I will keep that in mind if/when the opportunity arises to upgrade. If I do come by, I'll bring some beams to rip down
IF the OP is still looking:
Harvey is currently running a sale on their table saws. Today... only (of course they are).
www.harveywoodworking.com
4hp
www.harveywoodworking.com
$2,549.00
+ $360 shipping & most likely tax
36" model.
I would think it would be over $3k
===============================
2hp
www.harveywoodworking.com
only requires 110v (16A)
$1,849.00
+$360 ship (+ tax?)
Hope this information helps.
Harvey is currently running a sale on their table saws. Today... only (of course they are).
Special Deal For Today
Harvey is dedicated to high quality machines in not only woodworking but other fields too.
4hp
ALPHA HW110S-36P&52P 10" 4HP Dovetail Cabinet Table Saw
The ALPHA HW110S-36P & HW110S-52P are industrial grade, premium table saws have been designed and engineered to set new standards in the woodworking industry.
$2,549.00
+ $360 shipping & most likely tax
36" model.
I would think it would be over $3k
===============================
2hp
ALPHA HW110LC-36P 10" 2HP Cabinet Table Saw
Estimated Shipping Date: May 26 The ALPHA Series HW1 10LC 36P is designed and engineered to set new standards for professional table saws. It features a 31-1/2”extra deep cast iron table for much safer wood cutting; Precision ground cast iron table; the innovative COMPASS miter gauge; the...
only requires 110v (16A)
$1,849.00
+$360 ship (+ tax?)
Hope this information helps.
so, I purchased a unisaw today and I am in the process of wiring the outlet for the step up to 220v. The saw is a 34-802f it has a three hp motor and seems to be in good shape. The question I have is about dust collection and what type of fence to put on it? The previous owner put a plywood motor cover on with a inlet for dust collection, but I noticed the entire bottom of this is open. Is it supposed to be open? If so what do any of you that own this saw do for dust collection?
You might have better luck asking upstairs.
I am not sure what you mean when you say the entire bottom is open. Do you mean of the plywood motor enclosure or do you mean that someone removed all of the sides from the saw? I have seen lots of discussions over the years about whether or not the side panel over the motor is there or not (and about how expensive that panel can be, if you can find one). Effective dust collection requires managing the air flow so that it moves the saw dust into the dust collection system.
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