Table Saw Setup Question

OP
OP
DaveP

DaveP

New User
Dave
In rereading all this I don’t see any mention of the quality and condition of the blade.

How long since it was cleaned? Sharpened? Replaced?
Thanks for asking… blade needs to be cleaned. It’s sharp and straight, but needs cleaning.
 

BWSmith

BW
Senior User
Not saying this is the case;

Going from punched/pressed* arbor flanges to machined, can tighten certain cut issues. It effects hysteresis,or noise in the system. Understand,this is a rabbit hole... can be a good hole though. From there( machined flanges) you'll enter into balancing assemblies. Meaning,next level flanges have a way to balance the complete blade/flange "assembly". The backdoor approach is with a VFD.... you can tune out "some" vibration frequencies.

*Pressed; on punched flanges,the centers can be formed in presses for the,offset.
 

BWSmith

BW
Senior User
You can googlefoo balancing grinder wheels to learn about adj machined flanges. It's pretty slick. But jaundiced a wee bit in the sense that there's marketing involved....

Saying,there's co's that make these flanges. However,theirs isn't the only way to make adjustments in this arena. I will say it makes a noticeable difference in grinding quality. The commercial balancing stands are $$$. I've made several for a me and a cpl guys,they aren't "that" hard to make. Meaning,most on this forum could make a suitable facsimile. Good luck with your project.
 

BWSmith

BW
Senior User
A very easy way to look at this;

Vehicle wheel alignment(TS alignment) is a wonderful thing. But I'd sure want the wheels/tires balanced first to get the most out of the alignment.
 
OP
OP
DaveP

DaveP

New User
Dave
Not saying this is the case;

Going from punched/pressed* arbor flanges to machined, can tighten certain cut issues. It effects hysteresis,or noise in the system. Understand,this is a rabbit hole... can be a good hole though. From there( machined flanges) you'll enter into balancing assemblies. Meaning,next level flanges have a way to balance the complete blade/flange "assembly". The backdoor approach is with a VFD.... you can tune out "some" vibration frequencies.

*Pressed; on punched flanges,the centers can be formed in presses for the,offset.
Thanks for this note and the other two. I will take a look at the nut and flanges. Maybe there is some contribution to the issue there. I do use a machined disc to support/stabilize the blade, though. But, after all the comments here, I see that I have some further investigation and cleaning to do. And, I also need to consider the nature of the tool and its inherent limitations. Its a nice contractor saw, but not a cabinet saw. Given that, I recognize that there is a point of diminishing return and that I may already be near to it. LOL!
 
OP
OP
DaveP

DaveP

New User
Dave
I have cleaned my blade and all associated bits & pieces. And, I am very pleased to report that I am happy with the alignment... no extra work required. And, the fence is now set to just barely "open" to allow the material to pass thru easier. Photo below just shows the blade, the stabilizer disk, etc. for reference.

Thanks to everyone that contributed to the discussion!
 

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Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
.003 is well within tolerances for a table saw.

I like to set the fence .003 wider at the back of the blade. I believe this helps with marks due to blade runout.

That said, check your blades for runout and you'll probably be surprised. It doesn't affect anything, just makes a wider kerf.
 
OP
OP
DaveP

DaveP

New User
Dave
.003 is well within tolerances for a table saw.

I like to set the fence .003 wider at the back of the blade. I believe this helps with marks due to blade runout.

That said, check your blades for runout and you'll probably be surprised. It doesn't affect anything, just makes a wider kerf.
Agreed. And I was able to set the fence exactly as you suggest. Runout on the blade seems be about 0.003. Overall, I’m pleased and happy.
 
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