Thanks for asking… blade needs to be cleaned. It’s sharp and straight, but needs cleaning.In rereading all this I don’t see any mention of the quality and condition of the blade.
How long since it was cleaned? Sharpened? Replaced?
Thanks for asking… blade needs to be cleaned. It’s sharp and straight, but needs cleaning.In rereading all this I don’t see any mention of the quality and condition of the blade.
How long since it was cleaned? Sharpened? Replaced?
Thanks for this note and the other two. I will take a look at the nut and flanges. Maybe there is some contribution to the issue there. I do use a machined disc to support/stabilize the blade, though. But, after all the comments here, I see that I have some further investigation and cleaning to do. And, I also need to consider the nature of the tool and its inherent limitations. Its a nice contractor saw, but not a cabinet saw. Given that, I recognize that there is a point of diminishing return and that I may already be near to it. LOL!Not saying this is the case;
Going from punched/pressed* arbor flanges to machined, can tighten certain cut issues. It effects hysteresis,or noise in the system. Understand,this is a rabbit hole... can be a good hole though. From there( machined flanges) you'll enter into balancing assemblies. Meaning,next level flanges have a way to balance the complete blade/flange "assembly". The backdoor approach is with a VFD.... you can tune out "some" vibration frequencies.
*Pressed; on punched flanges,the centers can be formed in presses for the,offset.
Agreed. And I was able to set the fence exactly as you suggest. Runout on the blade seems be about 0.003. Overall, I’m pleased and happy..003 is well within tolerances for a table saw.
I like to set the fence .003 wider at the back of the blade. I believe this helps with marks due to blade runout.
That said, check your blades for runout and you'll probably be surprised. It doesn't affect anything, just makes a wider kerf.