Table saw paranoia

[Bas]

I tried the original plastic version of the MJ splitter and it did not fill me with a sense of safety. Hope the new version is more dependable and stays seated in the insert.

I think the new steel version is better, but I have had no complaints with the original one. Drilling the holes for the insert is key. If you move the drill too much around while making the holes the runout can cause a loose fit. I've made 6 ZCIs and the fit is nice and snug on all of them but one - I tossed it. The material might also make a difference, I used MDF.

I'm still happy with the "Shorty" steel splitter from here: http://www.leestyron.com/sharksplitter.php
It is super easy to install onto your existing splitter mount. Takes about 15 seconds to remove or replace

That looks pretty good. The quick replacement time is key. I know myself, if it takes more than a minute there's a good chance I wouldn't do it. :embaresse

 

[gator]

I think the new steel version is better, but I have had no complaints with the original one. :embaresse

I also have had a problem with the original (although I still use them). If the kerf does close on them too tight, they will pop out before you realize it.

George

 

[TracyP]

I bought the board buddies from The Woodworking Source, but don't have them installed yet. I need to do that soon.

 

[adowden]

Many great points have been mentioned in this post. I do use the bandsaw for cuts I am concerned about on the TS - especially thicker wood. I also forgot to mention earlier that it is much safer cutting true wood on any saw. When I started woodworking about ten years ago, I didn't always true a board properly by jointing first. I would cheat and plane both sides. If the board is not true, any cut is much more dangerous. There is more wobble and it could come off the fence or pinch. Now I always true all my lumber. I haven't had any kickback or scares in a long time, and it also makes assembly go much better.

Amy

 

[b4man]

Thanks everybody! The info is all good. Amy, great reminder about truing the piece before taking it to the TS. I am guilty often.

One of the issues I have with my Jet is the off/on switch. I'd really like to get or make a knee control (?). Or at least something that I don't have to bend down and find the switch like I do now.

Barbara

 

[G_ville_worker]

I also have the MJ splitter on zci's made out of mdf. I also use push sticks and such. I think with any system you use, if it is tough to get the piece through, that is when you have the potential for problems. Good advice was given on trueing up the board. It's when we rush things that we are in danger. The added benifit, besides safty, is usually better results.

I think blade guards that come with the saw are are good but may impart a false since of security. I think most of us keep are fingers away from the blade. It's when something unexpected like a slip happens that we get hurt. The gard may remind you that it is there but it's not going to stop a digit from going under it if you slip. The paws on the guard are great though for when kickback does happen. Now if I could get a splitter with paws on my rigid that would be nice.