Table saw blade warping

[Tarhead]

Have you really cleaned the arbor face and washers and nuts? Just a small amount of built up gradue or rust or leftover cosmoline from way back when it was new can cause these problems. Get some purple power/simple green type detergent and a green 3M scrub pad and clean until it is bright steel before going to a lot of effort with other more involved fixes. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam's_razor

 

[junquecol]

Got your PM earlier today. With weather being much better tomorrow afternoon, we will try to hook up. I will call you before going to church in the morning. Bruce

 

[Willemjm]

Willemjm- where do you get that arbor plate from?

I purchased mine almost 20 years ago and have never used my table saw without it.
Not sure that Is available today, but google “blade stiffener” or “blade stabilizer” seems as if a few of the high end blade manufacturers sell something similar, but without the o-ring.

 

[danmart77]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHtWfP-frD8

There was a recall with parts from Grizzly on this. Take a look. I don't think you are the only one to experience this. Several people on other sites complained enough to get them to address this.

 

[Jeff]

Blade stiffeners, but I don't know if it'll fix the apparent "blade warping" problem on that Grizzly.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=30075&cat=1,41080,51225&ap=1

 

[junquecol]

Raise blade to full height, and place a piece of freshly jointed wood next to blade on on right side, contacting teeth both front and rear. Using dial indicator, check both front and rear measurements from left miter slot, and verify that they are the same. If you don't have a jointer, then use an aluminum level instead of wood. Blades are often made so as to have a dish at rest, but centrifical force pulls them straight. On higher quality blades, you can often see a tension ring that does the same thing. After you rip a piece (not forcing it against the fence,) check it over it's length and see if it's straight. The outer and inner arbor flanges should be dead flat with each other. Just some random thoughts, which you can, with sixty eight cents get a senior coffee at Mickey D's. Just make sure you have the sixty eight cents.

 

[Mike Davis]

Check the blade washer, sometimes they get turned around, should be flat on the side that touches the blade. Very easy to overlook.

 

[RedBeard]

Update: I ordered a set of blade stabilizers and a Forrest stiffener plate. I have only tried the stabilizers but they seem to have fixed the issue. When I installed them the bowl is now actually going in the other direction but only .001”. I did some test cuts at lunch and it’s cutting like a champ. The only issue with it now is that arbor plate on the motor side is part of the arbor itself so I couldn’t just replace it with the new stabilizer plate like the nut side so the blade shifted about 1/4” over to the right so the riving knife no longer lines up to the blade. I have splitters installed on a couple of my zero clearance inserts anyway so it’s not a huge deal but unfortunate. I’ve been eyeing the Jessem clear cut stock guides for a while now. I think they’re going to start moving up my “to be purchased next” list as an additional line of defense against kick back since the riving knife doesn’t work. Just have to wait for them to go on sale or find some used. They’re awesome but man they are they expensive. All I need to do now is make some new zero clearance inserts and I’ll be ready to rock. Can’t thank everyone enough for the help.

 

[Jeff]

an additional line of defense against kick back since the riving knife doesn’t work.

I'm not trivializing the potential danger of kick a back but think that your standing position relative to the tablesaw gets you out of the danger zone in case of a kick back and doesn't cost a lot of bucks for cumbersome add-ons to the saw itself. A kick back isn't a show stopper so be safe and think about how you're going to do the cut.

 

[Willemjm]

I'm not trivializing the potential danger of kick a back but think that your standing position relative to the tablesaw gets you out of the danger zone in case of a kick back and doesn't cost a lot of bucks for cumbersome add-ons to the saw itself. A kick back isn't a show stopper so be safe and think about how you're going to do the cut.

In more than 40 years of woodworking, I have never had a table saw kick-back. I was taught by my dad when still just a kid and he showed me what mistakes can cause it. In short, one has to do something really wrong, or break table saw rules for a kick-back to happen.

I have never used a riving knife either.