Table Saw Blade Issues

Wiley's Woodworks

Wiley
Corporate Member
I'm having a devil of a time locating the exact 10" table saw blade I want. Searching Amazon, Klingspor, Rockler, Woodcraft just wore me out, so here are my specs. I'm hoping someone is using what I want. I want a combination type blade that cuts a flat kerf (I cut dovetails and box joints using jigs) and cuts a 1/8" (0.125" kerf. I prefer an ~50T count, but 40T will do if you have used it with success cutting plywood. I'm trying to cut down on constantly changing between 4 different blades--rip, crosscut, high count finishing, and plywood. Recommendations on blades you have actually used are most welcome so you can tell me your experience in regards to burning the wood and how long the blade stays sharp.
 

robliles

Rob
Corporate Member
Forrest offers a 40 tooth Woodworker II blade with a #1 grind that produces a flat .125" kerf. With 40 teeth, it would work well with ripping and cross cutting. The down side, it is $169.99.
 

zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
The Forrest blade is slightly cheaper here:


Another option maybe? Buy a less expensive blade and have it resharpened with flat teeth? Someone on here had a blade resharpened to their specs to make dovetails on a table saw within the past year. From memory it was flat bottom, but angled.

Edit (the referenced post):
 
Last edited:

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
At yesterday's raffle I was fortunate enough to win this blade. Today I tried it out to see if it really does cut a flat bottom kerf: It does! I tried it in both rip and crosscut operations in White Oak and it did very well. The kerf is perfectly flat and .125" wide. Obviously I can't attest to how long it stays sharp since I just got it yesterday, but my initial impression is very positive.
 

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
If a flat grind tooth blade is what you want then this is inexpensive if that is an issue this is 38.00
Kempston 99312 10-Inch by 24 Tooth Industrial Rip Thick Kerf Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor is a claimed to be .125 cut width https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013KTUQ6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A20G5NSWQ2QV2H&psc=1

Or the Freud 39.00

Freud 10" x 24T Thin Kerf Rip Blade (LU87R010) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225UH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Freud is a 3/32 blade per the ad

Hope this helps


 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
When I bought my SawStop PCS 1.75hp last year, I also bought two Infinity blades, a 50 tooth combination (40 ATB, 10 flat top rakers), and a 24 tooth ripping blade. Both have 1/8 kerfs. I used both full kerf and thin kerf blades on my previous saw, a Ryobi BT3100, but the SawStop does not love at least these full kerf blades. If you have 3hp (or more) then I think they are a good choice. But I also get a slight amount of burning with the 50 tooth. I consider the blades good but not great.

My usual go to blade is a Freud and that is probably where I will go next. Although I am tempted to try Infinity's thin kerf combination to see what difference it makes. Freud's full kerf 50 tooth is a LU84.

I've had Ridge resharpen blades for me and they did a great job, blades cut better than new. I would have no problem purchasing a Ridge blade except for the price.
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
There is no such animal as a flat tooth combo blade.

Your best bet is a 40T box blade.

BTW, I timed myself and not actually trying to be fast, I could change a blade in about 45 seconds.
 

nn4jw

New User
Jim
I'm not a fan of combination blades. I get much faster and better cuts with blades designed for the task at hand. For the most part I don't cross cut on the table saw anyway. I do that on my miter saw unless the stock is too wide for that. So the rip blade stays on the table saw most of the time. I do use a cross cut blade when necessary though on the table saw. For flat bottom box cuts I use the Oshlun box and finger joint set. It gives excellent 1/4" or 3/8" flat bottom cuts but I wouldn't use it for anything else. Certainly not for general cuts. It's just not that big a deal to change blades, especially if you plan ahead for your cut sequences.

Combination blades, to me, are a lot like combination tools. They sort of work but not nearly as well as the dedicated blade/tool.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
[QUOTEI want a combination type blade that cuts a flat kerf (I cut dovetails and box joints using jigs) and cuts a 1/8" (0.125" kerf. I prefer an ~50T count, but 40T will do
That combination doesn't exist. There are lots of 1/8" kerf table saw blades available. Freud makes a box joint set that cuts a flat kerf for box joints and dovetails.

The Ridge Carbide blade "will not cut a flat bottom".


 

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
Jeff, just for clarity, are you referring to the Ridge Carbide blade I referenced in my post above? If so, those aren't the same blades. The one I won is specifically the box joint blade. While it is in the TS2000 series, the sub number is TS20140FT.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Bill, I was not referring to your TS20140FT (flat tooth) blade, but to a combination blade by Ridge Carbide (also in the TS2000) series. I didn't see their box joint blade on their website but you have and have tried it .

"That combination doesn't exist." My statement isn't correct!

Your new blade appears to fit the criteria that the OP wants.
 

Wiley's Woodworks

Wiley
Corporate Member
This has turned into a lengthy conversation, and I appreciate all your efforts. It has turned up two blades that will do the job: cut a 1/8" kerf with a flat top when I cut dado grooves and tenons. The blades are Forrest Woodworker II 40T flat tooth, and a Ridge Carbide TS2000 40T flat tooth. They are both on the pricey side, but that's acceptable for a special need. I've already got more Forrest blades than I know what to do with (they came with a table saw package purchase), so I'm going with the Forrest WWII.

FYI the key words when searching that eliminate unsuitable blades are "flat tooth" or "square cut". Combination blades will have a "raker" tooth, which is a square cut tooth in combination with ATB teeth, but it does not leave a perfectly flat kerf cut that you need on tenons. Thanks to all for your input and efforts.
 

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