Switch Went Out on Table Saw

[BKind2Anmls]

For the second time since I've owned it, the switch went bad on my Delta 36-650 contractor's saw. I have ordered a new one but everywhere I look on the Internet it says they are not available and will be back-ordered. I finally went ahead and placed my order directly with Delta thinking they would get it first. My second hand-wheel broke last week but I have rigged something

Yesterday I could get the saw running by wiggling the flipper part up and down. Today--nothing. Is there anything I can do (can you hot-wire a table saw???) to use my saw until the switch arrives? It is too near Christmas to be without it for several weeks.

Thanks.

 

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

what voltage are you running the saw

if it is 110 I would just replace the switch with this or something like this http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9072-Saf...51368585&sr=8-1&keywords=safety+paddle+switch

I would rather have this on my saw and is on my list of upgrades to replace the stock switch

I do not see why you need to buy the one for delta that keeps failing

 

[Charles Lent]

If it's the same type switch they have been putting in their smaller drill presses and router/shapers for the last 10 years or so (small rectangular base plastic lever switch with removable safety key) the back portion of the switch has some holes in it that allows fine sawdust to get inside and fill the cavity where the contacts are located.

If you carefully remove the switch and study the backside you will find some small molded plastic clips on the short sides that hold the switch back half to the front half. You can slightly lift these clips and separate the switch halves, then remove the sawdust, being careful not to loose the switch contacts or spring. Then put the switch back together, but this time wrap some electrical tape around the sides of the switch body to keep the sawdust out. The tape helps, but you may still need to do this all again someday. I have had to dis-assemble and clean my router/shaper switch several times now. Once the sawdust is out of the switch it should work just like new.

These switches can sometimes be found in the better hardware stores too. Look for it in one of the local family owned type of hardware stores that seem to have everything, not Lowes or Home Depot



Charley

 

[BKind2Anmls]

I am afraid that if I bought a "generic" switch it wouldn't have the same flat posts for me to plug the wires and connectors into. I can unplug a wire from one spot and plug it back it on the same exact spot on a new identical switch, but if, for example, there were a different number of flat posts I wouldn't know what to do. Are switches pretty much universal? I would like to have one like the one in your link with a bigger paddle if it turns out to be "plug and play."

I did find it full of sawdust when I took the switch box apart but cleaning didn't work like I hoped it would. I guess the damage had been done.

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[Charles Lent]

If you go to a hardware store for for a replacement you should be looking for the same exact style switch. I have bought 2 this way and they were exactly the same as the original. Even the terminals were the same blade style. I have a small drill press and a router/shaper that both use the same switch. The first time that I had one go bad my router/shaper was still under warranty and Delta sent a replacement. Then it went bad again, but this time out of warranty. This is when I discovered that the switches were filling with sawdust (wish I hadn't thrown away the first one) so I started cleaning and taping them. Then the one in the drill press went out and it wasn't in warranty. I repaired it, but then started searching for where I could find replacements without paying Delta's prices and I stumbled on the local hardware store. They had two exact replacements in their aisle full of the little pull out bin boxes where they keep metric screws and other low volume sellers. (They also keep several sizes of motor brushes in those boxes and I have used some of them to repair some of my tools). Your hardware store may not have these switches, but it might be worth a try to see. Draw yourself a picture of the back of the switch and mark where each wire goes. Then remove the wires and take your switch with you in your search. You might get lucky.

My "repaired" switches held up for a while, but then needed cleaning out again. After a few cleanings the one in the router/shaper was beyond saving, mostly from the stress of dis-assembly and re-assembly. After the plastic clips break the switch really needs to be replaced, as there is nothing to hold it together properly. One of these spares from the hardware store is now in my router/shaper. The other was recently installed as a replacement (with a home made adapter plate) for the original push button power switch that was in my Jet 6" belt sander. Now I have to remember to get back to the hardware store to to see if I can buy a few more spares because I now have three machines that use them.

Charley

 

[BKind2Anmls]

We have a Lowes and an Ace in town. I will try both tomorrow. Thanks.




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[JRD]

Barbara,

The switch on my table saw failed last week as well. For a couple of weeks I'd had a similar problem, where wiggling the switch would eventually get the saw to running.

I simply removed the switch and applied a liberal spray of carburator cleaner into every hole, nook, and cranny. After working the switch a dozen or more times I reassembled the saw and it works perfectly. I assume the spray flushed sawdust out of the contacts and also cleaned them in the process.

Might be worth a try.

Jim

 

[Rob]

My switch went out on my Delta Contractor saw, the switch isn't available from Delta any longer. (Not an old saw, maybe 7 years old) I had to order a switch from Grizzly and fabricate a bracket for it. Wasn't hard to install at all.

 

[FlyingRon]

I had a Delta Contractor Saw for years. That toggle switch was the cheapest piece of junk for a saw that expensive. I agree with Rob (and some of the others). Grizzly and the other Amazon link have real nice LARGE on/off switches that can be fitted to that saw with little effort.

 

[Charles Lent]

Susan,

Could you post some pictures of your switch? My previous replies assumed that your switch was the same one that I've had trouble with. Rear, side, and front views of your switch would help identify it. Then we could better help you find an exact or better replacement. If there are any specifications printed on the side be sure to get that in the photo or at least add this information to your reply.

Charley

 

[SubGuy]

Grizzly offers a large selection of switches. Not the factory replacement but I have one and it works great. I would switch to those because one, you save alot of money from factory replacements and two they are always readily available. One thing I would ask, if your having repeated switch problems, are you running a extension cord? Maybe a reduced voltage is causing switch problems.

 

[BKind2Anmls]

I will post some pix tomorrow. Thanks all.

 

[BKind2Anmls]

The bottom of the switch is at the bottom of the photo. Black wires were connected to the left hand side and white wires to the right

 

[BKind2Anmls]

Jim,

Is there something else similar to carburetor cleaner? I don't have any around. I would imagine WD-40 would be a bad idea. How about denatured alcohol?

 

[junquecol]

Jim,

Is there something else similar to carburetor cleaner? I don't have any around. I would imagine WD-40 would be a bad idea. How about denatured alcohol?

Brake cleaner would be a better choice. You can pick up a can from any auto parts place. your switch looks like a two pole toggle switch from what I see. It has "push in mounting."

 

[Charles Lent]

Susan,

That looks like the same switch that I have in my router/shaper and drill press, so my initial posts seem to hold true. It's a 2 pole switch and Ace hardware might have an exact replacement for it, so it's worth looking there. If you find one, don't throw your old switch away. After cleaning, it will make a good spare.

The removal and cleaning process -

At the top and bottom of the switch (when positioned like in the picture) there are some plastic fingers that need to be pressed in toward the switch body while you press and wiggle the switch forward from the back side to push it out of the panel. You may need to get the fingers on one end of the switch to release and then get that end of the switch pushed slightly forward before doing the same with the other end, to get it completely out of the panel.

Cleaning -

Then you should be able to see the seam between the front and back half of the switch body and little plastic latching clips on the narrow sides of the switch (top and bottom) that hold the switch halves together. When these are released you can pull the front and back halves of the switch apart and clean out the sawdust. Be careful not to loose the rocker contact assembly and spring that are loose inside the switch.

Once the sawdust is out, you will need to put the rocker contact and spring back into place before putting the front and back halves of the case back together. Do this with the switch handle pointing up and the back half of the switch sitting on it's contacts on the workbench. When you get it back together, Turn it on and off to see if it operates correctly, then put it back into the saw and re-connect the wires. The wires from the motor should go to the bottom terminals and the wires from the power cord should go to the upper terminals, one color on the left and the other on the right. Both white need to be on one side and both black on the other, but it doesn't matter which side is which. Now wrap some electrical tape around the body of the switch to seal the holes and seam in the switch body as best as you can. Doing this should give you more use before it needs to be cleaned again. It's not likely that your seal will be perfect so eventually this will happen again. Delta should have chosen a sealed switch design for these tools. Your saw should now be ready to use again.

If this doesn't work for you, send me a PM. I've got some other ideas that I think will solve your problem, if cleaning your switch out doesn't work.

Don't spray any cleaner liquids into the switch.

Charley


I just checked ToolPartsDirect and their website says that they have 3 switches in stock for your saw, but EReplacementparts.com doesn't show that any are available.

I normally by from EReplacementParts.com, but have purchased from their competitor in times like this. I've never had any problems with either company.

 

[FlyingRon]

Brake cleaner would be a better choice. You can pick up a can from any auto parts place. your switch looks like a two pole toggle switch from what I see. It has "push in mounting."

NO.
Brake cleaner is full of stuff you don't want to get near an electrical switch. Most contain toluene and other organic solvents that will dissolve glue, rubber, and plastics. If the switch was just metal that would be fine, but there are all sorts of insulated parts and things holding the switch together.

 

[tarheelz]

First Law of Fixing that which Appears Broken: "Disassembly, followed by cleaning, following by thoughtful reassembly tends to fix things that were once in motion."

Thank you, Grandpa.

 

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

I stand my my first post of a paddle safety switch that would be safer and easier to turn off... I cheap upgrade that solves the problem of the broken part...