Some Scrolling questions.

[TedAS]

Here is a photo of my first attempt at a picture. This was so much fun, I was surprised how enjoyable scrolling is.

View image in gallery​

I am pleased with how it turned out but I have a few questions about the process.

What is the best way to attach the pattern to the wood? I used Elmers Spray Contact Adhesive, it held fine at most places but there were places where the paper came loose while I was sawing. But the biggest problem came when I removed the paper, there was a good amount of adhesive that remained on the wood. Is this normal? If it is what is the best way to remove the residue?

I used 1/4"BB plywood. Is this a good choice or should I use something thicker or thinner, or perhaps solid wood?

What should I use for the backer? I just taped some black paper on this but I am sure there is a better choice.

 

[sawduster]

dang man , you're a natural :icon_thum Nice smooth cuts and turns ...good job ! :eusa_clap

I use blue painters tape when attaching my patterns. Cover the surface with blue tape and glue the pattern to the tape with 3M spray . care must be taken when removing the tape but it is not difficult and the tape leaves no residue :icon_thum

1/4" is a good size for what you did . I always stack cut. You could have stacked 2 pieces of ply together and and had 2 pieces for the same effort and it helps with blade control as well. 1/8" is good as it is easier to frame . You can do 3 or 4 that way with different woods . i/2" is good for lots of things too and I always use real wood if I have it available . The biggest reason being that the layered edges of ply do not always compliment the work ....but sometimes they do ! :icon_scra Choosing the wood , for me , is part of the fun .....kind've like dressing for a date :mrgreen:
I use felt for my backers . You can also use " foamies " craft foam . You can find the felt squares at wally world :tongue2: or other craft stores and they are not expensive. The thinness helps if you are framing the piece

The thickness of the wood governs your blade choice as well . What size blade did you use for this one ?

Scrolling is indeed a lot of fun. I can't imagine my life without it and it looks like you've taken to it like a fish to water

Feel free to contact me anytime if you think I can help sawduster6996 at yahoo

you're on your way bro .......Bravo ! :banana:

 

[PChristy]

Ted, great job on the portrait:icon_thum:eusa_clap

What is the best way to attach the pattern to the wood? I used Elmers Spray Contact Adhesive, it held fine at most places but there were places where the paper came loose while I was sawing. But the biggest problem came when I removed the paper, there was a good amount of adhesive that remained on the wood. Is this normal? If it is what is the best way to remove the residue?

Spray adhesive is the best way to go if you are using glue - I use the 3M brand - It seems to hold better - I have read mant articles about this and the "pros" say to really put the spray to it - and let it dry a little until tacky sort of like the glue on tape and then apply the pattern to the wood-

As far as getting the pattern off - you can apply painters tape to the wood prior applying the pattern - but I have found that can be a pain also if you have a pattern with alot of small cuts
- The way I get mine off is apply MS and let it soak in until the pattern turns grey - then it should pull off - some paces you might have to reapply the MS - this also gets the glue that stays on the cutting


I used 1/4"BB plywood. Is this a good choice or should I use something thicker or thinner, or perhaps solid wood?

BB ply is a good choice - it really depends on what look you are trying to achieve - I have also use Oak ply as well - JMO I would not use thin solid to do a portrait style cut - to many small pieces that would break = you can use whatever thickness you want but be sure to stack cut the thin pieces - for blade control and you get three-four cuttings for the price of one :icon_thum

What should I use for the backer? I just taped some black paper on this but I am sure there is a better choice.

What I llike to use is black felt - I have used black foam board and black and/or brown matting board - I like the felt the best

 

[CarvedTones]

You already got some great answers so I won't try to confuse you with more of the same. Just wanted to tell you what a great job you did on your first one. :icon_thum

 

[ScottM]

Here is a photo of my first attempt at a picture. This was so much fun, I was surprised how enjoyable scrolling is.
I am pleased with how it turned out but I have a few questions about the process.

What is the best way to attach the pattern to the wood? I used Elmers Spray Contact Adhesive, it held fine at most places but there were places where the paper came loose while I was sawing. But the biggest problem came when I removed the paper, there was a good amount of adhesive that remained on the wood. Is this normal? If it is what is the best way to remove the residue?

I used M-77 adhesive form 3M. I spray only the paper and let it tack up a minute before attaching. To remove the pattern afterward I just dampen with mineral spirits. Any residue can be removed with a clean paper towel and mineral spirits.

I used 1/4"BB plywood. Is this a good choice or should I use something thicker or thinner, or perhaps solid wood?

I would use 1/8" or 1/4" plywood. You are not limited to BB but can use high quality maple, oak, cherry or other plywood.

What should I use for the backer? I just taped some black paper on this but I am sure there is a better choice.

Colored construction paper or posted board works well. Of course you can use painted wood but that might make it too thick to fit in a frame.

Nice job Ted :icon_thum

 

[TedAS]

Thanks for the compliments and the great tips.

I used an olson #5R on this project because it is what I had. I don't know if it was the right choice or not. I did give Mike a call and ordered blades on his recommendation. I will be using FD blades on the next one. I practiced some with a FD-UR blade, I noticed a big difference in the way it cut.

Now for some more questions. SORY

Is the 3M adhesive available at the borg or will I have to order it?

1/8" plywood is not something that is stocked at Lowe's and HD. Can you point me towards some of your favorite suppliers?

When you frame these do you cover them with glass?

 

[sawduster]

No need to apologize for asking questions my brother ....that is what we are here for :icon_thum

3M spray can be found in the borg, ace, wally world :tongue2: Kmart etc What I use is 3M super 77 spray
blue tape can be found there too . I use 3" when I can find it on sale
I have had good product and service from Sloans as far as hardwood veneer ply http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/ always check the "web specials" first :eusa_danc

Personally I use glass. Some don't . I use glass to keep the dust and dirt away so fragile pieces don't get broken during cleaning . I also use Deft spray lacquer as a final coat , but that is just me . Others have their own techniques and you will get other suggestions I am sure

As I said before , do not hesitate to PM or e-mail me . Scrolling is one of the few things I know a little bit about and i don't mind helping at all ....good to see someone else sitting at a saw :mrgreen:

 

[PChristy]

What Robert said - only difference is that I use semi poly in the rattle can - I haven't used Deft as of yet but I am going to on the next ones that I do - Oh---Another thing that you might come across is the "fuzzies" that are on the back sometimes - the ones that stick out like a soar thumb when you place that black backer board on - before you put any cleaner or finish on the project take a plumbers torch and put the project face down on a fire proof material and go back and forth with the torch to burn the "fuzzies" off

 

[Sealeveler]

I use a off brand spray adhesive and it works good if you can't find 3m brand.Mike is the best on blades to my limited experience.I also use clear packaging tape to help with any burning.Tony

 

[Guy in Paradise]

I am envious

With my aging eyes, I just can't seem to make those great cuts anymore. Good job.

 

[PChristy]

I use a off brand spray adhesive and it works good if you can't find 3m brand.Mike is the best on blades to my limited experience.I also use clear packaging tape to help with any burning.Tony

Tony, great point I forgot about the clear packing tape. It is great for the burning issue but I do not use it on my portrait's - I found out a few years ago the hard way that the MS will not penetrate the packing tape to loosen you pattern - It took me forever to get that pattern off - I really thought about tossing it into the fire pit - make sure you use the painters tape if you use the packing tape so that you can peel the pattern off

 

[PChristy]

Re: I am envious

With my aging eyes, I just can't seem to make those great cuts anymore. Good job.

know what you are talking about Guy - Someone here - please forgive me I can't remember who - (memory is going to) gave me one of those magnifier/light clamps with the swivel arm that I attach for those small cuts = I even use it on my lathe sometimes to get that tight cut

 

[ScottM]

I get my M-77 from Lowe's. They also sell it at Staples and other office supply places but they are more expensive. One can lasts a long time. Here is a trick. The nozzle will clog over time with adhesive. Just pull it off the can and soak in MS a couple minutes.

I get most of my thin plywood (1/8" and 1/4") from Sloan's.

I rarely use blue tape on plywood. No matter how careful you are it pull off some fibers and can break delicate pieces.

 

[TedAS]

Thanks everyone for sharing your knowledge! This site sure does ROCK:banana:
I checked out Sloans... Looks like some great deals. I book marked them.:icon_thum


Robert how did you know my next question... DEFT I love the stuff.. I'm even starting to like the smell.

I also use Deft spray lacquer as a final coat , but that is just me . Others have their own techniques and you will get other suggestions I am sure

As I said before , do not hesitate to PM or e-mail me . Scrolling is one of the few things I know a little bit about and i don't mind helping at all ....good to see someone else sitting at a saw :mrgreen:

 

[sawduster]

Just remember , 2 or 3 light coats :icon_thum i also start by spraying the inside of the cuts from the back, outside the shop, often with satin or semi. Hold it lower than the can , lightly spray side to side moving down at a downward angle , turn 45 degrees , repeat , 45 degrees , repeat until you've got them all done . Do not put it against a flat surface to do this or the spray will gather & puddle on the front . It is not necessary to hit every little cut , but you get the majority of the bigger ones this way and it helps tone down the contrast of the raw edges when viewed from the front . Yeah , you get a nice coating on your thumb as well but it comes off and is a small price to pay in my opinion :mrgreen:

 

[cskipper]

Wow, you've gotten off to a great start! You've also great advice from our best scrollers! In case you don't know (I didn't) MS is mineral spirits. I use the blue painters tape and then attach the pattern. When I am at home in the shop I use a spray adhesive (not terribly concerned about the brand). When I am cutting in my kitchen in my apartment during the week I am copying the pattern onto adhesive paper (labels - peel off the back). If the pattern lifts off while cutting I use regular scotch tape. This is especially true if I'm cutting a lot of detail in a small area. I tape behind the blade, often in those cases.

Duster - thanks for the process for using the Deft - never thought about spraying from the back first. I tend to cut things like trivets (until lately), so I use Danish oil first.

FD-UR's rock! Using a reverse blade you will have fewer fuzzies on the back (hopefully virtually none). Spiral blades cause the most. I haven't been brave enough to try burning off the fuzzies, so it's one of many reasons I don't use spirals. Other's love them - just don't start there.

If you are curious about types of things you can scroll, page through the photo gallery. We're listed by our user name.

 

[TedAS]

Cathy

Thanks for the scotch tape tip. I don't think I would have come up with that one on my own, I tried to hold it down with my fingers and that didn't work.

And I can see how the adhesive labels would work too.

Great tips... Thank you!:icon_thum

 

[dlrion]

Heat Gun

Hey,

I have used 3M and Elmers spray adhesives both before.... I personally like 3M but its probably just opinion.

The easiest way to get it off is REALLY SIMPLE

HEAT, a heat gun works great, or in my situation I just stick it on my shop heater and let it get nice and toasty...

Be careful, if you let it go to much it will scorch the wood though.

When you do this, the paper will actually sometime peel itself off, a little light assistance and you are home free!

Then your biggest challenge is getting the rest of the gummy resin off the board, I just use a couple of passes with a random orbital sander.

Ready for finishing

 

[cskipper]

Lightly wipe the piece with mineral spirits and the goo will be gone (gee, isn't there a product by that name?)

 

[TedAS]

Re: Heat Gun

Then your biggest challenge is getting the rest of the gummy resin off the board, I just use a couple of passes with a random orbital sander.

Ready for finishing

My luck I would break the fretwork if I tried the RO sander:BangHead: