Solution to short distance blade to TS front?

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
In shopping for a new TS, I found the distance from blade to front edge to vary from 13 1/2 on my contractor to as little as 8 inches on the F3.
Well, with a T-square type fence, why not just get a 2 x 2 or 2 x 3 steel box and bolt it on the front edge? Notch for the slots. Then put the fence rail on that. Then you have a reasonable support for crosscutting.
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
Here is a version of what you are suggesting... I think...

 

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
I had that issue using a crosscut sled on wide panels. Here's how I solved it. The two extensions hook into my fence rails to support the sled when it is pulled way back. When I'm done, they come out and hang on the wall.

IMG_1985.JPG IMG_1987.JPG
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
At least I am not alone in this thinking! Laguna had a hard time even figuring out what I meant. ( Well, they are BS people)

My idea is just extending the entire width of the table a couple inches full time. I like that clamp arrangement.

Still tearing out what little hair I have left, Harvey C-300 or PCS.
 

JohnnyR

John
Corporate Member
I've got a Vega fence and rail, which is round. Anyone have a solution for this?
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
Before I left Raleigh I helped a neighbor adapt the front extension for a Vega or Delta. I forget which, but both are round on some models. I simply split a short piece of PVC for the clamp (epoxied), and glued some non-slip rubbery stuff on both sides.
Wayne, yours still looks new and I'm sure it's close to 15 y/o!
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Not sure how it mounts, but I suspect my original idea t add a steel box beam across the front and remount the fence to it unless it is like my Ridgid that clamps to the far side rail, so the distance can't change.

I guess you can just have a piece sit over the fence on a free standing leg.
 

rcarmac

Board of Directors, Secretary
Robert
Staff member
Corporate Member
In shopping for a new TS, I found the distance from blade to front edge to vary from 13 1/2 on my contractor to as little as 8 inches on the F3.
Well, with a T-square type fence, why not just get a 2 x 2 or 2 x 3 steel box and bolt it on the front edge? Notch for the slots. Then put the fence rail on that. Then you have a reasonable support for crosscutting.
What saw did u go with
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Brain spinning. C-300, Baileigh1040p, PM2000, or PCS. Don't think I can make a wrong decision, but when talking real money, I am more than a little analytic about it.

Got my ductwork installed. I am getting just 580 CFM at the 6 inch inlet for the TS with 130 CFM at the inlet to a 2 1/2 for the guard. Not enough. 1 3/4 HP Jet canister DC. Spec. for a TS is usually 400, but we know that is not enough. So adding a cyclone will not work. Looks like a 3 HP Oneida is in the horizon. ( Don't have the electricity for a 5 HP ClearView) In other words, basically half the unit spec. which I gather is not too bad in real life.
 

rcarmac

Board of Directors, Secretary
Robert
Staff member
Corporate Member
Brain spinning. C-300, Baileigh1040p, PM2000, or PCS. Don't think I can make a wrong decision, but when talking real money, I am more than a little analytic about it.

Got my ductwork installed. I am getting just 580 CFM at the 6 inch inlet for the TS with 130 CFM at the inlet to a 2 1/2 for the guard. Not enough. 1 3/4 HP Jet canister DC. Spec. for a TS is usually 400, but we know that is not enough. So adding a cyclone will not work. Looks like a 3 HP Oneida is in the horizon. ( Don't have the electricity for a 5 HP ClearView) In other words, basically half the unit spec. which I gather is not too bad in real life.
C-300 is Harvey? What is PCS? No Saw Stop.
By the way, I feel your pain. Money is in the bank. Just can’t find the one to pull the trigger on
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
Before I left Raleigh I helped a neighbor adapt the front extension for a Vega or Delta. I forget which, but both are round on some models. I simply split a short piece of PVC for the clamp (epoxied), and glued some non-slip rubbery stuff on both sides.
Wayne, yours still looks new and I'm sure it's close to 15 y/o!
@JohnnyR what @Joe Scharle said - create a "round / half-round" "receiver" and something to block against and (if it were me) I would incorporate the clamp (maybe two) with a half-round piece attached to the clamp. I would use the system that Bill Clemmons did to hold / level the attachment. Just my suggestion...
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
None of them were perfect ( IMHO). Excellent luck with my C14 band saw. The Baileigh and Powermatic are probably slightly better saws, but splitting hairs and not sure I would notice. What actually made me shy away from the PCS is so many unique parts that may or may not be available in 20 years, like the special short secondary drive belt. Griz and South Bend are sold out for now, but like the Baileigh, I decided to go with the pivot trunnion. All of them are good saws. All of them far better than what I have. If I find I don't like the Harvey fence, that is about the easiest thing to change. My ego would have made me want the PM2000 as I have wanted a PM since I was in High School, but it is twice the price for no really identifiable reason I would notice. The South Bend ( Grizzly) with the three DROs was hard to pass up. If it was in stock, might have gone that way.

Now I wait. It is not like all the little things I have been upgrading via Amazon, WalMart and direct where the wait is a couple days to a week. We have to admit, Amazon etc. has changes so many of our expectations. We no longer have to wait for the monthly "Wells Fargo is wagon a commi'n this way" Only delays is when it goes through the Greenville USPS center. Things seem to get hung up for a week.
 

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