I am resisting projects until I get my master bath finished, so doing small tweaks in the shop.
Got some ZCI tape. On the band saw, I had to file down the aluminum insert to get the tape flush, but now I won't be losing little bits down into the saw. I made a tall fence and just a strip of tape as a shim, it bolts up right @ 90 degrees. I also was able to get the guide post within a thou of in-line from top to bottom finally. Trick was using a dial indicator to be sure which way and how much the alignment moved when moving the setscrews. More tweaking to be done on the dust collection.
I was surprised on the visual of the correct blade tracking. I thought I was running the bottom of the gullet on the crown center, but using a caliper, I was still about 3mm forward. So, moved it back. Fence is square to the table. Table tweaked for drift. I can rip 18 inches with the guides open and be off by only a couple of thou, so I guess that is pretty good tracking. I am amazed how many Y-tube video's still talk about skewing the fence for tracking! Guess these folks never do a cross-cut. Of course, I also see so many "experts" doing things on table saws I would never dream of.
Miter saw is also slightly better, or as good as a Ridgid will get. Again, sanded down an insert so the tape is flush. Fences shimmed to be 90 degrees. The OEM aluminum ones were terrible. Like 3/32 tilt. Table was good though. Lower fence was not bad and sand-able into alignment. I concluded to never do bevel cuts anyway, only strait and strait miters. Verified square with a 5-cut. My new extensions have two tracks. One for a stop and the rear ones to set two setup-stops so I can slide the main stop back and forth to stops. No back fence as it is only at the saw you need a fence. A back fence can mess up cuts on long pieces if they are not perfect. House trim is not perfect and then some.
Got some ZCI tape. On the band saw, I had to file down the aluminum insert to get the tape flush, but now I won't be losing little bits down into the saw. I made a tall fence and just a strip of tape as a shim, it bolts up right @ 90 degrees. I also was able to get the guide post within a thou of in-line from top to bottom finally. Trick was using a dial indicator to be sure which way and how much the alignment moved when moving the setscrews. More tweaking to be done on the dust collection.
I was surprised on the visual of the correct blade tracking. I thought I was running the bottom of the gullet on the crown center, but using a caliper, I was still about 3mm forward. So, moved it back. Fence is square to the table. Table tweaked for drift. I can rip 18 inches with the guides open and be off by only a couple of thou, so I guess that is pretty good tracking. I am amazed how many Y-tube video's still talk about skewing the fence for tracking! Guess these folks never do a cross-cut. Of course, I also see so many "experts" doing things on table saws I would never dream of.
Miter saw is also slightly better, or as good as a Ridgid will get. Again, sanded down an insert so the tape is flush. Fences shimmed to be 90 degrees. The OEM aluminum ones were terrible. Like 3/32 tilt. Table was good though. Lower fence was not bad and sand-able into alignment. I concluded to never do bevel cuts anyway, only strait and strait miters. Verified square with a 5-cut. My new extensions have two tracks. One for a stop and the rear ones to set two setup-stops so I can slide the main stop back and forth to stops. No back fence as it is only at the saw you need a fence. A back fence can mess up cuts on long pieces if they are not perfect. House trim is not perfect and then some.