Small Table Restore Questions

[KurtB]

Hello everyone,
I wasn't sure what Forum to put this in. Hopefully it's okay here. We picked up a small table at a flea market last week. I just thought the proportions, design, etc. were attractive. In any case, I have now stripped off the finish since it was a mess, and I've got a few questions.

To begin with, what kind of wood is it? I'm thinking Maple?Ash? It's quite hard and one of the back legs almost looks like Tiger Maple.

I'm also thinking it's probably been made by someone judging by the look of the dovetails? Don't think they came off a machine or jig.

The other two questions have to do with finishing it. I stripped it and it has been sanded with 80 grit to remove the old finish completely. The question is, after sanding and vacuuming it off, the wood is clear, but then in about 5-10 minutes I get the splotchiness pictured. Is this just the old finish somehow coming back up to the surface? And will that eventually stop? I did notice the areas that had a chance to sit overnight had less and less of the splotchy return when I re-sanded it today.

Then the final question, what would you folks do for a finish on it? I was going back and forth and have decided on a clear finish of some type, but didn't know what might look better on Maple, If that's what it is. I could do shellac, oil, or wipe on poly. And then maybe finish with wax. I appreciate your input.

Thanks very much.
Kurt

 

[creasman]

Looks like maple from the pictures. Ash would be slightly darker (amber tone) with open pores.

My preference for tables is usually polyurethane for it's durability, but I know there are others on here who will have better advice regarding the finish. Looks like you've done a good job removing the old finish. Before you apply the new one take this time to tighten any joints and make any minor repairs if needed.

 

[Mike Davis]

The dovetails look machine made to me.

The spots are probably an old oil stain or finish coming to the surface.
Shellac will seal that then you could put whatever you want over it.

I like poly for tables, especially if they may be where visitors or children may not be as careful as you are with it.

Nice job on the cleaning and sanding.

oh, and I think it’s maple too.

 

[KurtB]

Thanks guys. The dovetails on one side are a bit loose and the drawer is a little off square. I'll definitely take care of both of those before the finish goes on. I'm hoping the finish ambers a bit. Guess some oil based wipe on satin poly would take care of that.
Appreciate the help.

 

[bob vaughan]

Dovetails look to be from a Dodds or other factory dovetail machine. Likely 1" on center.

Those splotches can be worrisome. Some furniture polishes can contain silicones or other things that are hard to finish over. See if they wipe away with lacquer thinner.
I agree with others that the wood looks like hard maple (sugar maple).
Drawer sides, of course, are oak.

These little quirks at the inside of the of tail were typical of the design of a lot of dovetail bits.

 

[KurtB]

Thanks Bob. I'll have to give the lacquer thinner a try and see what happens. Most of them are gone at this point as the piece has dried more. I'm thinking once I get it sanded to finish level it should be fine.
Interesting about the dovetail jig. I'd have thought the joints would be more precise. Did they actually engineer in a bit of variety in the way they were cut?

 

[bob vaughan]

I suspect that the dovetail bit's little spur was a design to minimize tear out when doing the cross grain of drawer sides. The drawer fronts and backs aren't as susceptible to dovetail tear out.

 

[bob vaughan]

Amana sells a bit for that type of dovetail machine. Google Amana 45839 to see what one looks like.

 

[KurtB]

The dovetails look machine made to me.

The spots are probably an old oil stain or finish coming to the surface.
Shellac will seal that then you could put whatever you want over it.

I like poly for tables, especially if they may be where visitors or children may not be as careful as you are with it.

Nice job on the cleaning and sanding.

oh, and I think it’s maple too.

Thanks Mike. Quick question: I've used shellac before on the totes, knobs, handles, of the planes and saws I restore. And I've used wipe-on poly quite a bit on tables I've built. I have not used a first coat of shellac and then poly on anything.

I just put on a 50/50 shellac/denatured alcohol coat on the table after sanding to 220 to seal it and it looks great.
So now when I go to the wipe-on poly coats, do I lightly sand the shellac coat first or just go right over it with the poly? I'm thinking of 2 coats of gloss followed by 1-2 coats of satin for the poly and sanding in between.

 

[Mike Davis]

Yes, lightly sand between coats. I just steel wool and wax the final coat of gloss.
But use what you are used to.

 

[KurtB]

Got it done. Light coat of shellac, then 3 coats of clear and 1 satin wipe-on poly. I just really like the lines of it.

 

[Mike Davis]

I think it turned out really nice.

 

[KurtB]

Thanks Mike. If you'd seen what I brought home..... Really nice to get it cleaned up and looking good again.
Almost as good as bringing back an old handsaw or plane.

 

[Martin Roper]

Cute little table!