Sliding tablesaw

Status
Not open for further replies.

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
It seems I have convince the LOML to let me upgrade up my tablesaw set up from a cabinet saw to a slider. :eusa_danc

What features/capabilities should I look for? I am not interested in what brand is better than the other, but more so what should it be capable of. I do some cabinets, furniture, and miscellaneous stuff. I would love to get a top of the line Felder, but it is going to be more than I want to fork out.

I am a hobbyist and not a pro so I am not looking for production put out. My shop is 24 x 32 so I believe I would like to be able to cross cut 96" with it, but can't say that it is mandatory.

Any and all suggestions and thoughts appreciated.
 

Bernhard

Bernhard
User
This Grizzly is a serious candidate


Travis,

Wouldn't consider the Grizzly. I like Grizzly equipment in general, but this slider is too new, they just copied the design and had not had the chance to work out all the kinks. The trunion is not hevy enough, slider adjustment and run is not up to par. I think it will be a good saw in about 3 years, but not now.

So here is the must have list I had when I bought mine: minimum of 8' capacity (for full sheets), have dado capability ( lots of European machinery don't, because of safety concerns), must be able to mount 14" blades, removeable out rigger arm, specs for slider must be less than 0.4mm out over 8' (otherwise no cabinet will fit),have remote on/off switch on slider (other wise you'll have to crawl under a 4x8 sheet to turn off/on), minimum weight : 1500lbs (otherwise need to be bolted down to prevent tipping over with MDF sheets), built-in mobility kit (AND keep tolerances when moving machine), VFD motor (only in 3-ph) be a plus, slider must be able to support end point loads of 150lbs when fully extended (i.e.sheet of MDF). Slider must have t-slots for mounting accessories (edging shoe, clamps, auxilliary fence). I also had a scoring blade, but I get just as good cuts when using a sharp, good quality high angle ATB w/o scoring. ANd most of all: A reputable company that will be in business for a long time to ome. I purposely did not include all the electronic gimicks (digital height adjustments, etc), because I will own my saw for a long, long time...and electronic things will need repair at some point and possible will not be supported at that time. Mechanical things always can be repaired. Since I am not a production shop, this is not a problem. It only takes me a couple seconds longer to adjust the saw blade height by hand instead of a electronicly controled drive.
Consider a shaper/saw combo for space savings and use of the slider for shaping!.
But then again, you know all that.
So have fun shopping!

Cheers,
Bernhard
 

JackLeg

New User
Reggie
Travis: We're looking to upgrade a bit also. What is your current saw? Are you going to sell it when you "bite the bullet?"
 

NCPete

New User
Pete Davio
there are a couple nice saws on Raleigh CL, a JET contractor, and a Grizzly G1023 if you are looking to upgrade, Reggie.
 

Bernhard

Bernhard
User
good points Bernard, I hadn't thought of those issues. Which one do you have?

Pete,
I have a Felder CF700 Series Professional. I bought it in a moment of delusion of grandeur. It is a nice piece of equipment and a joy to use: I really like and do not regret the purchase. Fit and finish, customer support, available options, accuracy and precision, ease of use are -imho- superior in that price range. But let's put it that way: This will be my last saw that I'll ever buy. But I still have room for a CNC router!

Cheers,
Bernhard
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
My current saw is a Powermatic PM-66, and yes, once I bite the bullet, I will be selling her. I bought her new and she has been a good friend.
 

dino drosas

Dino
Corporate Member
Travis, I too have a Felder, as you can see by my avitar, and agree with what Bernard posted. Since I did not buy my equipment brand new, I did not have the choice of options. The slider on my saw is 98" and a bit short to my liking. It is not easy to cut a full length panel and clamp it securely in place. Be sure to get a minimun 9 foot slider and even a 10 footer if you have the room. I do not use too much plywood in the type things I make so it really isn't an issue. Since there are so many woodworking and furniture plants closing, especially in our area, many of these saws can be picked up at a bargin. Look here: http://www.irsauctions.com/index_lots.asp?pg=details&id=10454&flash=8
This one happens to be in Tampa but there are many more on this site.
 

cpowell

New User
Chuck
It seems I have convince the LOML to let me upgrade up my tablesaw set up from a cabinet saw to a slider. :eusa_danc

What features/capabilities should I look for? I am not interested in what brand is better than the other, but more so what should it be capable of. I do some cabinets, furniture, and miscellaneous stuff. I would love to get a top of the line Felder, but it is going to be more than I want to fork out.

I am a hobbyist and not a pro so I am not looking for production put out. My shop is 24 x 32 so I believe I would like to be able to cross cut 96" with it, but can't say that it is mandatory.

Any and all suggestions and thoughts appreciated.

Ok, now I see where you have been heading with your recent suggestive posts. :icon_thum

Well, I can't comment on the slider but if you can detail how you managed to get the go ahead from LOYL, publish it, and sell the books for a nominal fee I think you could make a million dollars - at LEAST!! :lol: :lol:

I couldn't fit a slider in my shop but maybe I could modify your approach and get the okay for a Sawstop? :)


Chuck
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
Yes, I have it bad, very bad.

It really wasn't hard convincing the LOML. I just had to agree that I would put the girls in private school.:eusa_thin. I was halfway agreeable to it anyways, so now I get to do it with concurrence.
 

JackLeg

New User
Reggie
That's a "two way win" looks like to me! Let me know when you're ready to part with old 66. I have the Artisan and my partner is looking to upgrade from a cheap Delta. Thanx.
 

ashley_phil

Phil Ashley
Corporate Member
what are you going to use the slider for? Given the size of your building you should consider a vertical panel saw rather than a slider and keep your PM 66 for cutting angles and the like.
 

vinson

Doug
Corporate Member
Travis,
I too have the sllider fever although have never used one. Sliding the work piece with a sliding table has to be better and safer than sliding the workpiece. The ones I have looked into are the Grizzly, Rojek and Felder. The Grizzly certainly has price appeal but Bernhard blasted it. I find it hard to believe that it is as bad as he says. I really like the Rojek 300v (about $3500). They have several other cool models. Of course the Felder would be a dream come true but $$$$. To compound things, Rikon has come out with a slider. I may wait for a review or two on the Rikon. If I can't wait, I will go with the Rojek. Good luck.

Doug Vinson
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
Ashley, basically, I want to slide the table versus sliding the wood. Cutting plywood on a cabinet saw works, but it is a PITA and I have heard so much feedback on accuracy, ease of use, and generally better. I have never used one, but I have pushed on Bernhard's Felder a couple of times and it seems like a sweet thing. From what I have been reading, if you have a standard US tablesaw, you compensate for it not being a slider by making and buying all kinds of jigs. Extra long miter gauges, cut off sleds, panel cutters, etc, etc.

I am not diving in and buying one tomorrow (although I would like to), because I would be nuts to just do that. I have been perusing the net, looking at different models, watched Minimax's video, etc. Maybe you are the voice of reason and convince me that I am crazy. I can see that a lot would be easier, and maybe I would keep the PM 66 still, but I have a hard time with a vertical panel saw. I get to go to a cabinet shop where I work when I go to Kansas City and they have one they paid $20K for. Pneumatic hold downs, power up and down, it is a sweet, but huge machine, and way out of my league. I have seen a few smaller ones, like at the BORG, but I just don't see how you will get as clean a cut or the level of accuracy that I want with one.

Is it harder to do solid lumber on a slider? That is a question I have not seen answered by a user or someone familiar with one other than the minimax video where they are trying to sell their product so any and all input is appreciated.

Knowing what you do for a living and your background, what are your comments?

Doug V, it sounds like we are in the same boat. I can see Bernhard's point as the Grizzly slider hasn't been around that long and I doubt they have worked the kinks out of it. As for the Rojek, I thought I heard somewhere they were in financial trouble, but I am not sure. As for the ones I have looked into, I have looked at the Hammer, Laguna, and Minimax. The others are out of my league in more ways than one.

Ultimately, I may beg to go to Bernhard's and use his for a while and see how it feels to work with one compared to a standard cabinet saw.
 

ashley_phil

Phil Ashley
Corporate Member
There are several questions in there so I'll answer them as best I can.

I can see that a lot would be easier, and maybe I would keep the PM 66 still, but I have a hard time with a vertical panel saw. I get to go to a cabinet shop where I work when I go to Kansas City and they have one they paid $20K for. Pneumatic hold downs, power up and down, it is a sweet, but huge machine, and way out of my league. I have seen a few smaller ones, like at the BORG, but I just don't see how you will get as clean a cut or the level of accuracy that I want with one.

The Vertical Saws you see at the BORG are typically just above entry level equipment. All of the verticals from Safety Speed Cut or Saw Trax will give very accurate cuts on Plywood! Their accuracy is dependent primarily on the operator and while quick set-up for a slider is much easier on entry level (>$2,500) vertical saws. When you go to their middle of the line machines that argument is very limited. I recommend the "SR-5U from SSC which also comes with a router so you can do dados and the like on the same machine. There is a new saw manufacturer near Atlanta, GA, Saw-Trax and they offer some outstanding values in my opinion. I'm personal friends with the guys at Safety Speed Cut so I push folks to the established product, but my honest "unbiased" opinion is that currently Saw-Trax offers the best bang for your buck. They have a new bearing system to support the saw carriage that makes them significantly easier to use. I offer both products on our website, www.factorynew.com.

On a vertical you move the saw through the material for cross cutting and for ripping you lock the carriage in place and push the material through.

You current impressions of this class of saw are likely due to who you've seen running them at the local BORG! I know when I worked for Lowe's in College we completely abused our saw and it was rarely maintained. If you wanted an accurate cut you could do one, but you had to pay attention which I confess we rarely did. Honestly me and a couple other guys were the only ones who knew enough about what was going on to get an accurate cut. We always fed folks the line it's got a 1/4" blade and that's as accurate as we could get.

Is it harder to do solid lumber on a slider?
Knowing what you do for a living and your background, what are your comments?

It's simply a matter putting the correct blade on the saw. Typically a slider is equipment with a minimum 80 tooth panel cutting blade. These quickly bog down cutting solid wood and so the impression spread throughout shops in the US that sliders don't cut solid wood. No one took the time to explain you just need to change the blade. These saws were typically sold to cabinet shops for panel cutting and shops using 32-mm style construction so they weren't cutting much solid wood. In europe they use sliders for straightline ripping and all of their general cutting.

Doug V, it sounds like we are in the same boat. I can see Bernhard's point as the Grizzly slider hasn't been around that long and I doubt they have worked the kinks out of it.

The CAM-WOOD slider we are importing comes from the same facility as some of GRIZZLY's sliders. Their GO501 is essentially the same as ours except they have a shorter table, we have a full 10-1/2' table for essentially $ 900 more.

I think the notion that GRIZZLY doesn't have the kinks out of their saws is moderatly accurate. The more accurate assesment is they don't have the kinks out of their sales force. I took a hard look at their jointer planer at AWFS and any question I had was met with a blank stare by a guy who said he was their lead technician!

As for the Rojek, I thought I heard somewhere they were in financial trouble, but I am not sure. As for the ones I have looked into, I have looked at the Hammer, Laguna, and Minimax. The others are out of my league in more ways than one.

I have heard zero rumors about Techmark the importer of Rojek being in financial trouble. It may be on the horizon but I haven't heard it. If you heard that from a competitor it's likely salesman BS. Of course I didn't see Whirlwind going under last month until I got a returned check on an order so who knows for sure.

Ultimately, I may beg to go to Bernhard's and use his for a while and see how it feels to work with one compared to a standard cabinet saw.

There's your best bet! Bum off of Bernhard! He certainly has one of the best saws on the market! I'd rate it in the top tier just below MARTIN and ALTENDORF and they way ALTENDORF is cheapening their saws who knows!
 

Bernhard

Bernhard
User
Travis,

After all that discussion regarding sliding table saws, there is another possibility: Keep your cabinet saw and buy a CNC ROUTER!!!!!

A shopbot or similar CNC router (Techno, Sabre, etc) will do all of the tasks plus a bunch more (shelf pin boring, rabbeting, etc). So you really would "save" money, since you do not need a line borer, Blum Minpress, etc. The shopbot also has an attachment for turning.

Anyway, if I had to do it over, my selection would include a CNC router especially for sheetgood work (cabinets and the like).

Bernhard
 

ashley_phil

Phil Ashley
Corporate Member
Travis,

After all that discussion regarding sliding table saws, there is another possibility: Keep your cabinet saw and buy a CNC ROUTER!!!!!

A shopbot or similar CNC router (Techno, Sabre, etc) will do all of the tasks plus a bunch more (shelf pin boring, rabbeting, etc). So you really would "save" money, since you do not need a line borer, Blum Minpress, etc. The shopbot also has an attachment for turning.

Anyway, if I had to do it over, my selection would include a CNC router especially for sheetgood work (cabinets and the like).

Bernhard

Yeah entry level CNC machines have really hurt the sales of Sliders, but you can do very little solid wood cutting on them.

We now have a small 4x8 machine in our WR Series for $ 23,800.

There are less expensive routes and software can be more than the machine we have a "RouterCad" package for nested based cabinets for $ 3,900. That we are subsudizing the development on for our machines to get that extra leap in cost down somewhat. Most other software of this caliber is $ 6 - 10k alone.

Realistically with a shop-built vacuum table you're looking at a turn key package just under $ 35k for a "true" CNC machine with nested base capabilities. We are working to develop some additional features in the next year, but this basic entry machine is a great option in my opinion.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top