Shop Notes router sled

[Travis Porter]

I got the new shop notes issue about two weeks ago and have decided to build the router sled they have in the issue. I think it is an awesome jig for doing rail/stile doors and other end grain type of stuff.

Unfortunately, I think the article is the pits. It doesn't give much of the process and methodology, and it is missing one key measurement, where does the hold down go. I could have assumed, but didn't want to do that, so I sent Shopnotes a message on their subscriber page, and amazingly enough to me, I got a human response.

They stated that they did miss some measurements and have had a lot of feedback on the sled and gave me the exact measurements. Also told me that they would help out with any other questions or issues I had with the project which I thought was awesome.

If anyone else is planning on building the sled, the hold down should be 2 inches over from the fence.

 

[DaveO]

I just got that issue as my trial issue, and that does look like a handy set up. Are you going to use the phenolic ply like they show? I think that you would be better off with regular baltic birch ply and a good waxing on the underside. I would be afraid that the phenolic top surface might be too slick to really keep your cope stick in place.
I am glad to hear that Shopnotes was so responsive to your questions. This was the first issue I've seen of the mag and am seriously considering getting a subscription.
Dave

 

[Travis Porter]

I bought the phenolic from wood craft. It is very slick, but I think the hold down will keep the cope stick in place. One piece of the phenolic is enough to build 3 of the sleds though. It does make the sled slide very well on the router top.

 

[Ray Martin]

Travis,

Thanx for following up with the editors. I was planning on building the sled too.

Ray

 

[Joe Scharle]

If your table/insert is not FLAT, consider 2 hold-downs. One may pinch the work down while passing the bit and cause undo angst. DAMHIKT!
Joe

 

[Steve D]

I agree with the concern about the surface being too slick to keep the stock in place. Even slight movement will create a problem. You may be able to couner that by roughing up the phenolic or using some PSA sandpaper.

 

[DaveO]

You may be able to couner that by roughing up the phenolic or using some PSA sandpaper.

In my experience with the phenolic ply, your best bet would be to use the PSA sandpaper. I had to rough up the surface of it for better glue adhesion when I laminated it to MDF for my router table, and 60 grit sand paper barely cut it.
My .017, Dave

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

In my experience with the phenolic ply, your best bet would be to use the PSA sandpaper. I had to rough up the surface of it for better glue adhesion when I laminated it to MDF for my router table, and 60 grit sand paper barely cut it.
My .017, Dave

I'm going to make a version of that sled also. It is similar to the ones commercially available from Eagle America and others, but I like the way the backer board is held. Mine will slide against my fence rather than in a miter track which I left off my latest router table. Hopefully a thin base plate should slide under the rail bit cutters and not interfere with it.

Question, does that phenolic ply actually have a thin layer of phenolic (which is epoxy saturated linen cured under high pressure and temp) or is it just epoxy coated ply?

 

[DaveO]

I would have to say the stuff I've gotten from Woodcraft is just epoxy coated/impregnated BB ply.
Dave

 

[Travis Porter]

I think it is as Dave suggests as well. It is a very very thin coating.

 

[Steve D]

I made my sled with a 1/4" lexan base and it works fine with the rail cutter - it slides on the fence instead of in the miter slot.