Shop Build

Dee2

Board of Directors, Vice President
Gene
Staff member
Corporate Member
I think it was a video on Matt Risinger's channel. They basically furred out a chamber below the roofs sheating with OSB or something similar for ventilation, sprayed the (closed cell?) foam to the desired R-value to the underside of the OSB and then installed the ceiling finish, capturing the foam as you propose with T&G. I would wonder if something cheaper than OSB could be used to create the chamber as it would not have structural value.
 

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
Want insulation cheap and easy ? Use R-30 or R-38 paper or foil, then use the white fibered Pre-engineered plastic, it looks like Tyvek without writing but, it has embedded a netting sandwiched between the 2 plys of plastic. You probably would only need 1 roll. Staple to the bottom of the joist and then after I would add furring strips on the bottom of joists.
Nice light reflection, light to install and way easier than anything else.......... and low cost
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
Still trying to figure out what to do with the ceiling. I am looking at spray foam and covering it with tongue and grove pieces on furring strips leaving a gap to breath with the joists exposed. Anybody got any ideas. Thanks....
whats wrong with rolled fiberglas?
 

Mike K

Mike
Corporate Member
Finally got around to getting the ceiling done with spray foam. What a difference that makes. Before the ceiling got to 120 degrees, now never over 85. I will cover the foam down the road. Haven't figured that out yet. The mini split is on the way. Should be nice and cool finally.
 

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chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
Ive often wondered with spray foam roof deck applications, what happens down the road when you need to replace roof sheathing?
 

Hjanes

Harlan
User
Looks like your dream shop taking shape. With the tight structure, and the dust vacuum outside, need to have a return air (to inside) to balance the vac's CFM. I'd advise more lighting than you think you need if you plan to get old in that shop. I doubled code on staggered circuits, and now at 79 I'm adding 4 ft LED's over the bench. It happens. Congratulations.
 

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
Wood generally is cheaper. Steel studs, although can be easier they also can require more bracing to resist "racking" and twisting from the heat load the building absorbs. They used to be cheaper (steel studs) but that is not the case the last few years ... at least out here.
 

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