Sharpening carving tools - suggestions wanted

[Dean Maiorano]

G'day All!

I need some help choosing the 'best' all around system for sharpening carving gouges and knives, as well as the straight stuff - chisels and plane irons. Most of my 'unplugged' woodworking is in carving and I'm trying to increase my skills to a higher level. It is obvious to me that getting better at carving means I have to get better at sharpening.

I'd love to hear from anyone that does professional carving or furniture building as to which system you prefer and why. If you are in the Raleigh/Durham area and you use chisels/gouges in your craft work, I'd love to stop by your shop to see, in person, how you sharpen your tools. In exchange for such personal attention I can give you something in return. For instance, I have barrels full of UHMW PE scrap left over from past jobs (very useable sizes) or an 8" 3M brand 1 micron PSA backed diamond lapping disk ($30 wholesale) or even a piece of countertop granite (12" x 12" or larger with my own hand cut edge).

Thanks,

Dean

 

[CarvedTones]

I would be happy to loan you the "Wood Carving Basics" book and DVD if you want to see David Sabol do it. There is only a chapter on sharpening and there are other more complete works out there. There seem to be as many regimens as there are carvers, but I notice that most of the ones whose work I respect most always have a stone, honing cone or strop handy, rarely sharpen with anything very abrasive and hone often. But I am not really a pro, unless you count the few hiking sticks I practically give away at yard sales while working on getting good enough to put my name on them and ask more.

 

[Dean Maiorano]

Andy,

Thanks for the offer. You seem to have opted for a more traditional handworked method of sharpening. How satisfied are you with the results on something like a #9 profile gouge, for instance? I'm convinced that a machine wouldn't be much faster when dealing with such steep curves. Would you agree? Do you know of any jigs to help sharpen tools like that, ones that enable good bevel angle consistancy over free handing?

BTW, from what I've seen of your work you seem professional enough to me!

Dean

 

[CarvedTones]

This page: http://www.oneway.ca/sharpening/grind_jig.htm claims the Wolverine can be used for carving tools in addition to turning tools. But I keep going back to the advice given here: http://www.woodcarvers.com/sharpening.htm and elsewhere.

Once a tool is sharp, DO NOT re-sharpen unless you break, chip or otherwise want to re-shape the blade. Once the blade is sharp, only strop it after that either by hand with a leather strop or with a buffing wheel.

My satisfaction with my sharpening varies, but most of the bad experiences were with power. I am not saying it is a bad thing; it's just easier to really screw things up with power because it happens so fast. Good sharpening happens fast too. But yes, I prefer to hand hone most of the time.

 

[Mike Davis]

I'm a firm believer in KEEPING tools honed. By the time you think it needs sharpening it is way too dull.

If your tools are in that shape you may need to use a machine. But you can learn to finesse the machine just as you learn to finesse the tool. Hold the tip very lightly to the wheel/belt/disc and slowly turn/roll/twist as the need presents. A light touch and constant awareness of the shape/bevel/finish of the tool is the goal. Sorta like Zen of sharpening.

Also get a 10x loupe to examine the edge as you work on sharpening. You may be surprised what a very close examination will teach you.

 

[Dean Maiorano]

Mike - Thanks for the response. I haven't done the loupe yet but think I'll start. Usually I just take my eyeglasses off and examine the edge - I'm so nearsighted I've figured that was good enough! However, getting an even closer look would definitely help. Finesse is something I'm well on my way to, the additional advice is helping me acquire that talent more rapidly. The tools in question are either used when I buy them or damaged by me or those I've lent them to. I've learned how to tackle the latter - I keep working more smartly and I've built a secondary set of tools - the 'you can borrow these' set. When a good gouge can run $40 - $110 EACH, such a set isn't a luxury, it's a necessity.


Andy - I'll follow up on that advice as well! I ran into a Chris Pye pdf on the internet today, a summary of advice I've read in some of his books. He loves the secondary bevel to be on the inside edge, in lieu of a 'micro bevel' on the main bevel. It's something I'm interested in trying out, especially with those tools I'm going to 'push' instead of using with a mallet.

Dean

 

[Mike Davis]

For the inside bevel I use 3M 800 grit Wet & Dry paper wrapped around the appropriate size dowel. For some chisels you may have to turn a dowel to fit. Also a soft board that you have formed to fit you chisels will act as a strop when charged with rouge.

One other thing--

I use 600 grit sanding belts from http://www.trugrit.com/belts-manufacturer-3m.htm to touch up knives and chisels.

 

[Dean Maiorano]

Too cool, thanks Mike! Westfield is nowhere near Raleigh, is it? I'm thinking 'way out' west of the state?