Sharpen or New General Purpose 10 inch Table Saw Blade

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zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
I have used a general purpose Diablo blade for years that has worked well, but it seems to be dull. I have thought about sharpening it, but wonder if I should buy a new blade since the Diablo series seems to be more disposable (this may be conjecture on my part).

What are folks using for 10" table saw blades? What's the going rate to have a blade sharpened?

This Amana seems to have good reviews:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P4UNN...colid=LIL60XP981S9&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I think this is the general purpose Diablo that I have (the make/series is no longer legible on mine):

https://www.amazon.com/D1040X-Diabl...r=1-2&keywords=diablo+10+inch+table+saw+blade

I like the idea of the Forrest blades, but hesitate at the price since I often saw reclaimed lumber. I have found metal pieces in this resued lumber when sawing and fear ruining a $100 blade versus a $30 blade.

Thank you,

Zach
 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
Zach - no specific advice, just a few comments.

General purpose blades is what I use for 95% of my TS cuts - except when sawing reclaimed lumber. For reclaimed wood I use a cheapo blade; the down side is that I do get more chip out (using a fresh zero clearance insert would have helped).

I am not that discriminating I guess, compared to what I read others doing. I simply glue up ripped boards if that's what my project calls for; I don't have a jointer or a so called 'glueline rip' blade. Chip out is not generally a problem, but I do typically rip with the show side up (so tearout would be on the bottom if it is visible; haven't noticed tearout though).

I have several full kerf rip blades, as well as some multipurpose blades. Mostly I use an 8" carbide tooth blade I bought on clearance for <$10. Aside from this 8" I bought a few years ago, I haven't bought a blade in about 15 years, and so any advice I have would be useless. I do not own a Forrest blade - and doubt I ever will (cost/benefit does not seem to be there for me). A few of my blade are due for sharpening - so I will see what advice others might have with regard to services.
 

Pop Golden

New User
Pop
​Zach, The Diablo is indeed a contractor's throw-away blade. It's inexpensive so not to sharpen, toss it. The general use (ie. combination) is according to a Freud saw blade workshop I attend a few years ago a compromise design. It will work, but not as well as crosscut or rip blade. Also if your table saw is less than 3 hp. it needs a thin kerf blade so as not to put a strain on the motor. There is some who think the thin kerf is not as accurate as a full kerf. I use blade stiffeners. Freud is a good blade as are CMT, Amana, Forest etc. I do very little crosscuting on my table saw using my miter saw instead. I have in my saw blade arsenal 4 rip blades (including a glue line rip), 2 crosscut blades, plywood blade, 2 old combination blades (for rough work) & dado set (8 in.). I use Farris belt & saw for sharpening. The cost is 25 cents per tooth. Well worth the cost when dealing with a $50 or $100 blade. As in almost everything you get what you pay for in quality.

Pop


 
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junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
Dollar for dollar, it's hard to beat the Delta 7657 from Cripe Distributing. Last time I checked they were about $20, plus $10 shipping. Shipping a second blade adds very little to the cost of shipping. I own several of the 7657's, both as Delta, and DeWalt. For sharpening, check out Dynamic Saw in Bufallo NY. You can put 75 pounds of blades in the large flat rate box, but UPS coming back will be more. I wish that Dynamic used USPS for return of blades. Quicker and cheaper than UPS. As for thin kerf, I say Bull Durham! I've always used full kerf blades on my contractor's saw. First saw had a 1.0 HP motor (Sears,) and second has a Century 2.0 HP motor on it.
 

Rick M

New User
Rick
3 of my last 4 Freud blades had problems, 2 rip blades were defective and returned, 1 crosscut was fine but later lost tension, the Fusion was fine but doesn't meet Freud marketing claims. My future blade purchases will be another brand.
 

zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
Thanks all!

Pop--I took for granted that I can use a full kerf blade now. I should have mentioned that I have 3 hp Unisaw in my first post! Thanks for confirming what I thought about the Freud/Diablo blades.

Bruce, I wasn't aware of the Delta blade and I'll have to look into it.

Rick, thanks for the heads up on the Diablo/Freud blades. My newest Freud/Diablo is probably 6-7 years old by now. I have a glue line blade that is probably one of the first that Freud released and it has been great as have my other blades. Were your blades the Freud Industrial or the Diablo blades? I've also read there is a quality difference within the Freud-line based on country of origin, China or Italy--were your blades made in the same country?

Does anyone know if there is a difference, besides the kerf, between the Freud Industrial and Freud Diablo blade lines? I ask because the price point is different for the "same" blade (the Industrial is full kerf, Diablo is thin).

https://www.amazon.com/D1080X-Diabl...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NPY9KD5WH7VW8V3E3M22

https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Ultima..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=NPY9KD5WH7VW8V3E3M22

The Industrial blade seems to be a more professional blade and I wonder if these can be sharpened versus the thin kerft "disposable" blades made by Freud? Has anyone done a comparison to the better blades offered by others like Amana, CMT or Forrest.

Thank you!
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
Freud's Fusion and Industrial blades can be sharpened several times as they are made with more carbide than their Diablo line.

I've had very good results with both Fusion and Industrial Freud blades.
 

Rick M

New User
Rick
All the bad blades were Italian made. 2 glue line rips and 1 crosscut. My old dull Freud blades cut cleaner than the 3 bad blades. The Fusion is okay but it doesn't make chip free cuts in melamine and the rip quality is just barely good enough for gluing. I think quality control has been compromised in the Italian factory. I might bite the bullet and go Ridge Carbide or Forrest next time.
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
Thank you for sharing Rick!

The delta blade mentioned earlier looks better and better.
Delta didn't actually make this blade. It was made by Leitz of Germany. Years ago, when B&D raped Delta, blade production was shifted to DeWalt. US Saw just disappeared. Leitz then dumped their remaining Delta stock. Mike Jackson handled many of the sales over at Woodnet. You could buy a Delta 80 tooth blade for six bucks. The H O Schumacher variable spaced, high bevel blades went for $20. The 7657 was designed to compete against the Forrest WWII. With the shipping being very little on second blade, I would order two. I keep one on my saw 99% of the time. Own a couple of Forest WWII's, but wasn't impressed. I consider them to be over, as in over rated, and over priced
 

ScottM

Scott
Staff member
Corporate Member
I am not sure about their TS blades but I bought a Klingspor brand blade for my miter saw and really like it. I would definitely consider getting one of their TS blades.
 

zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
Thanks Bruce! I just ordered the “Delta” blade, which now seems to be made either in the US or UK. Now I need to order anothernsplitter for my sharkguard!
 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
Thanks Bruce! I just ordered the “Delta” blade, which now seems to be made either in the US or UK. Now I need to order anothernsplitter for my sharkguard!

I searched a bit for Cripe Distributing, and saw lots of products on an Etsy store, but no saw blades. Any hints on the specifics of how you were able to order?
 

zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
I searched a bit for Cripe Distributing, and saw lots of products on an Etsy store, but no saw blades. Any hints on the specifics of how you were able to order?

I ordered from eBay and they also sell through Bonanza:

“Crime Tools” in eBay store.

https://m.bonanza.com/listings/delta-35-7657-10-x-40-tooth-gen-purpose-carbide-saw-blade-usa/580479373?goog_pla=1&gpid=18283950120&keyword=&goog_pla=1&pos=1o2&ad_type=pla&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpcLZBRCnARIsAMPBgF0tI_F9MfBLRwC5gkeqcnRnGO3MW7jrADe7enVz-3A776LOwjl0FAEaAodrEALw_wcB
 

Rick M

New User
Rick
Dollar for dollar, it's hard to beat the Delta 7657 from Cripe Distributing. Last time I checked they were about $20, plus $10 shipping. Shipping a second blade adds very little to the cost of shipping. I own several of the 7657's, both as Delta, and DeWalt. For sharpening, check out Dynamic Saw in Bufallo NY. You can put 75 pounds of blades in the large flat rate box, but UPS coming back will be more. I wish that Dynamic used USPS for return of blades. Quicker and cheaper than UPS. As for thin kerf, I say Bull Durham! I've always used full kerf blades on my contractor's saw. First saw had a 1.0 HP motor (Sears,) and second has a Century 2.0 HP motor on it.
So are these all NOS? (New Old Stock)
 

zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
Rick,

i think they're new, not NOS based on Bruce saying they were made in Germany. The current cripe ads show made in the US or UK. It also seems that if these are NOS cripe has a HUGE stockpile of them. But this is an unqualified guess on my part.
 

SubGuy

Administrator
Zach
I know you already ordered your blade, but if you're unhappy, I offer my experience. Freud Industrial has server me well on my Jet 3HP. So has a thin kerf CMT combo which I have retired for a junk blade as I am moving away from combos and getting more toward purpose build blades. Next purchase will be either Forrest or another Freud Industrial in a Cross Cut. I do keep a few other junk blades around for suspect wood. Not sold on plywood blades on a TS yet. Cross-cut blades with zero clearance has produced good results.
 

zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
Zach,

How are your Freud blades? Based on Rick’s experience I chose the Delta blade, but was seriously considering the Freud blades.

Thanks!
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Zach,

I use Freud Industrial and CMT mainly. BIG fan of CMT blades and router bits ;-)

Sharpening depends on blade and tooth configuration. The main thing is finding a shop that does a good job. I pay anywhere from $10 - 18.

[edit] that being said, if you're dealing with reclaimed wood, then I would go with a metal detector and a cheaper blade.

And be careful sometimes those nails can become schrapnel.
 
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sawman101

Bruce Swanson
Corporate Member
I have one Forrest blade among a bunch of Freud blades; the Freud blades are my favorites. For smooth, straight ripping cuts, their glue line rip can't be beat. A good 60 tooth, alternate top bevel blade is great for miter cuts, or cross cuts. The Freud blades are well worth sharpening, but many of the bargain blades are throw away because they use a lower grade carbide tooth, and lack in balance and accuracy. A good sharpener can bring these blades to better specs, but you will pay more than the blades worth. Keep the throw aways for salvaged lumber etc.
 
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