Share your knowledge - Minwax Polycrylic

[KC7CN]

I know it's been a while since I've posted anything - thought I'd better get back to working in the shop. I am building cabinets for the shop, and have decided this would be a good time to try a quick-drying odorless finish. This thought occurred when LOML complained about the smell from the first coat of oil-based stain!

Based on positive comments on the forum I purchased some Minwax water-based Polycrylic (clear semi-gloss). My go-to formula for a good finish is a 'wipe-on' 50/50 oil-base Poly and mineral spirits. I have no experience using water-based finishes! The directions on the can states 'Apply a thin coat with synthetic bristle brush...'. There is no mention of thinning the product on the label. Not sure if this product is suitable for wipe-on application.

Any information, tips, and techniques you can share about this product and application will be appreciated.

- Don

 

[Skymaster]

Don, you will luv it some caveats NO STEEL WOOL!!!!!!!!!! on large area a painting pad works very well. This stuff DRYS LIKE LIGHTNING, you gotta really move.that said on avg only 30 mins dry time, nylon pads, lightly between coats, you can get many coats in only hour or so

 

[yellofins]

Don,
I'm in the middle of finishing a cabinet for the church using the Minwax Polycrylic.
Here are a few of my recent findings.
When they tell you not to overwipe or overbrush they mean it. this stuff does dry fast.
Thinner coats work better.
Temperature does have an effect on drying time. If it's a little cooler in the shop you may need to leave more than two hours before sanding (or using scotchbrite...) between coats.
I used a lambswool applicator for the sides and inside of the cabinet and the result was great. I also used foam brushes as an applicator.

If you need to sand to repair issues in the finish you may want to let the finish dry overnight before trying to sand out imperfections (more involved sanding than between coat sanding.....)


I'm hoping to put my final coat on tonight. I'll update you with any newer findings.



The finish is not odorless. It is not as bad as oil or DNA based finishes but there is an odor.

This finish works great with an HVLP spraying system. this is the finish I put on my cornhole boards and it holds up very well.
Ron

 

[Bas]

Good to hear from you Don

I brush on polycrylic with a regular synthetic brush. It levels well and leaves a pretty smooth finish. On flat surfaces, brushing works just about as well as spraying. Foam brushes/ rollers tend to introduce bubbles in the finish. It's not suitable for wiping.

After the first coat, sand off the raised grain with 220/ 320 grit sandpaper. In between coats, lightly sand with 220/ 320. This stuff dries really fast, so you can get multiple coats in a day. When sanding, you should get fine white powder. If not, it needs to dry a little longer.

Polycrylic adds very little color to the wood, so if you want that nice amber look, use an initial coat of dewaxed shellac (which is really hard to brush though). You could of course start with a coat of Boiled Linseed Oil, let it dry thoroughly, and then apply the polycrylic, but now we're back to oil and (slightly) stinky cabinets again. The polycrylic does a good of sealing the oil odor, but not 100% of it.

Like Jack said, don't use steel wool. Steel wool + water based finish = rust.

Polycrylic is tough finish, not a hard finish you can rub out.

Since you're building cabinets, see if you can finish the insides before assembly. This is especially useful when making drawers. I've successfully brushed polycrylic on inside corners without drips/ smears, but it's more difficult to get that really smooth finish, and sanding is a pain.

 

[Jeff]

Don,

Good advice given above. Because this stuff dries so rapidly you may want to consider spraying large surfaces like cabinets. +1 to pre-finishing before assembly where possible. Here's a good introductory video about water-borne finishes from Marc Spagnuolo.

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/waterborne-finishes-hvlp/?category_name=finishing

Keep us posted on your experience and adventure.

 

[bluedawg76]

i don't think you can thin it or at least not very much (<10% with water). the carrier solvent is a glycol like ethylene glycol and some water. Not sure about the wiping issues as I've wiped it on w/ good results (i'm not very good at brushing) -though it will be thicker than the wipe-on poly you're used to. It does dry fast but nothing like shellac. FYI: General finishes makes several versions of water based finishes -polycrylic and polyurethane that get good marks.

Sam

 

[KC7CN]

Thank you 'big-time' for all advice and application tips on Polycrylic - this will surely make the job easier! The plan is to finish the un-assembled cabinet pieces today. I'll let let you know how it goes.

-Don

 

[Howard Acheson]

i don't think you can thin it or at least not very much (<10% with water). the carrier solvent is a glycol like ethylene glycol and some water. Not sure about the wiping issues as I've wiped it on w/ good results (i'm not very good at brushing) -though it will be thicker than the wipe-on poly you're used to. It does dry fast but nothing like shellac. FYI: General finishes makes several versions of water based finishes -polycrylic and polyurethane that get good marks.

Sam

Yes, you are correct. Water is not a "thinner" for water borne finishes. The function of the water is to carry the other chemicals keeping them apart until the water evaporates and allows them to come into contact. Once they come into contact, the sort of melt together (coelesce) forming the film finish.

Some waterbornes do allow water to be added. It so, it will say so in the label instructions and will also say how much can be added.

 

[CrealBilly]

I really like Polycrylic - I just don't like the fact that it's water based and raises the grain - all the time spent preparing wood for a finish is basically for not when you put on a coat of polycrylic or other water borne finishes for that matter - it's instant grain raise!!! Which is what I dislike about water borne finishes in general.

If your after a acrylic finish... my opinion is acrylic lacquer (not enamel) like what's pictured below is much better and available at most auto parts or department stores pretty cheap. Just lob a bunch of coats on let dry then progressively block wet sand to level the finish starting at 400grit with water and Palmolive (green) dish soap. Work it up to the grit/sheen you want (flat) or steel wool / pumice / rotenstone (satin) or buff (gloss) and polish (high gloss) if that's what your after. There is no need to sand between coats since non-water borne acrylic melts into the previously applied coats. Just stay away from acrylic enamel and you'll be ok - enamel takes forever and a day to dry and harden.

 

[KC7CN]

Brushed on the first coat - much easier than I thought. It was helpful to know to work fast and not to over-brush. Discovered I forgot all about the top . A long piece that I moved out-of-way. Also forgot to stain it! Oh well - gives me something to do while I wait for the finish to dry.

-Don

 

[KC7CN]

Don, you will luv it some caveats NO STEEL WOOL!!!!!!!!!! on large area a painting pad works very well. This stuff DRYS LIKE LIGHTNING, you gotta really move.that said on avg only 30 mins dry time, nylon pads, lightly between coats, you can get many coats in only hour or so

You're absolutely right - I luv it! I used a Home Depot 'Good' synthetic brush - it looked better than their 'Better' quality brush . Very easy to apply! And the brush did a good job - only lost a couple of bristles - easy fix!

The Polycrylic seems expensive compared to what I remember paying for my old standby Minwax Polyurethane - the local price for a quart of Minwax Polycrylic was $18 and some change; just a sign of the times! Having said that, it was worth the price considering how easy it was to apply: Less time, easy cleanup, and hardly any odor!

Thanks again everyone - all your tips were very helpful.

-Don

 

[Bas]

Thanks again everyone - all your tips were very helpful.

Pictures Don, pictures. Politeness is great, but it's pictures that count!

 

[Skymaster]

kilo charlie 7 charlie november you are most welcome EX Hot Ziggity 1 Alpha Bravo too bad we r not closer I have couple gals of Polycrylic