Seeking HVLP gun advice

agrieco

anthony
Corporate Member
I'll second that endorsement.

On Phil's advice (at a NCWW Saturday hands-on workshop at Phil's place) I bought the Spray-it SP-33000. Since them I have sprayed about a dozen pieces of furniture and about 5 interior doors using that system and a variety of compressors (from a small hot dog compressor to a fewer larger tank models). I have sprayed
- SealCoat shellac,
- a variety of Target Coatings products (the lacquer, the sanding sealer, their shellac, the conversion varnish, and the polyurethane),
- as well as Sherwin Williams Pro Classic latex enamel.
Only the Target conversion varnish was somewhat difficult, and the advice I have received from another more experienced finisher here on NCWW (sorry I forget who) was that the layer thickness 'needs to be greater' on that product. Aside from that I have had no problems achieving very acceptable results using that gun.
It is the only gun I have ever used, aside from the workshop at Phil's, and so I have no comparisons.
Any advise for spraying latex with this gun? I also have it but have never sprayed latex with it...but given the project requests from my wife, it is in my future.
 

red

Papa Red
Red
Senior User
Thanks for the great feedback! I just bought the Spray-it SP-33000 kit on Amazon. It sounds like a good unit to learn with that doesn't cost too much. When I have more experience, I might step up to the Devilbiss gun.
Please post how you like it. I purchased the 33-500 kit (link above in another post) from amazon and have not used it yet. No projects are ready for a spray finish. It seems easy enough but I always had a heck of a time with my HVLP sprayer. It's operator error for sure because people use them all the time with little issue. Good luck.

Red
 

Henry W

HenryW
Senior User
Any advise for spraying latex with this gun? I also have it but have never sprayed latex with it...but given the project requests from my wife, it is in my future.
EDIT - I am likely mistaken here- I now doubt that I sprayed this latex product straight out of the can - end of EDIT

I have only sprayed Sherwin Williams Pro Classic latex with it (straight out of the can, this product is already fairly 'thin' - low viscosity).
I was a novice sprayer but loved the end result. I moved five wood raised panel doors outside and did 2 coats on all of them (one side and edges) in one day. Took some time but worked well.
 
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golfdad

Co-director of Outreach
Dirk
Corporate Member
I have only sprayed Sherwin Williams Pro Classic latex with it (straight out of the can, this product is already fairly 'thin' - low viscosity).
I was a novice sprayer but loved the end result. I moved fi
I have only sprayed Sherwin Williams Pro Classic latex with it (straight out of the can, this product is already fairly 'thin' - low viscosity).
I was a novice sprayer but loved the end result. I moved five wood raised panel doors outside and did 2 coats on all of them (one side and edges) in one day. Too

Henry you did not thin at all?
 

Henry W

HenryW
Senior User
Henry you did not thin at all?
EDIT - Later tests on undiluted product were not great - I must have thinned - but did not recall doing so. I have started a new thread recant these unsubstantiated "I did not thin' statements (end of edit)

Ok that is my recollection. I do not recall thinning this product at all, mostly because I do not believe I have thinned any product before spraying.

I do not have any way to measure viscosity - and most of the waterborne Target products I have sprayed are suitable to spray directly from the can, so that is what I did with the Pro Classic (not knowing any better - ignorance is bliss!).
I do recall the Sherwin Williams employee telling me before purchase that one of the reasons that painters like this product so much is that it is lower viscosity (and maybe I presumed she meant 'also sprayable directly without thinning'; I was asking about HVLP sprayable products after all).

But of course my memory is not perfect - but that is my recollection. Your results may vary.
 
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Jeff

Jeff
Corporate Member
and most of the waterborne Target products I have sprayed are suitable to spray directly from the can, so that is what I did with the Pro Classic (
I do recall the Sherwin Williams employee telling me before purchase that one of the reasons that painters like this product so much is that it is lower viscosity
The comparisons for spray finishing are relative to pure water whose viscosity is 1.0. The products with viscosities near that of water don't need to be thinned. Many typical woodworking finishes can be sprayed right from the can. Spraying paints is much different and may require thinning (see the manufacturer's recommendations) and a different size spray tip.


The Target and Sherwin-Williams ProClassic products are water-borne finishes with somewhat greater viscosities than water so they can be sprayed directly from the can.
 

Henry W

HenryW
Senior User
The Target and Sherwin-Williams ProClassic products are water-borne finishes with somewhat greater viscosities than water so they can be sprayed directly from the can.
Thanks Jeff. I had not seen that in writing, although I knew the Target products were spray-able.
Homestead's recommendation of spray-able SW Pro Classic acrylic latex enamel fits with the advice I was provided by SW (and my experience).
 

Henry W

HenryW
Senior User
Any advise for spraying latex with this gun? I also have it but have never sprayed latex with it...but given the project requests from my wife, it is in my future.
Product choice is paramount here. As Jeff posted above, the advice from Homestead finishing site is exactly right; 'wall paint' should not be used on furniture - it is too soft and 'blocks' (sticks to things placed on it). An enamel (harder finish) paint should be used. Many here have recommended SW Pro Classic (I heard about this product on NCWW first and consistently), but Benjamin Moore and others likely have comparable products (?). Buy the right product and you won't sorry.
Tintable water based lacquers are also suitable finishes for furniture, although you did not state specifically that those were the projects in your future. Tinted lacquers (choose the color like you do a paint) are available from Target, maybe directly, but certainly from dealers; note that dealers are few and far between and so this likely still requires shipping. Other brands may be suitable as well.

FYI - I started the spray finishing journey in order to 'up my game' in finishing, previously a weak point. I posted earlier about NCWW workshop at Phil's that enabled me to start. I have definitely improved -not without a few hiccups in refinishing furniture for other people. I am trying to follow the advice of 'picking 1-3 types finishes and mastering those', rather than having a different finish on every project. My choice is to use waterborne products entirely (and SealCoat shellac in alcohol). Target has been my choice of vendors and I have not been disappointed with the results. No connection to the company, and I am certain that other vendor products are recommended as well. I know Klingspor's carries General Finishes products, and that several here on NCWW use these (both solvent borne and water borne products).
 

golfdad

Co-director of Outreach
Dirk
Corporate Member
The comparisons for spray finishing are relative to pure water whose viscosity is 1.0. The products with viscosities near that of water don't need to be thinned. Many typical woodworking finishes can be sprayed right from the can. Spraying paints is much different and may require thinning (see the manufacturer's recommendations) and a different size spray tip.


The Target and Sherwin-Williams ProClassic products are water-borne finishes with somewhat greater viscosities than water so they can be sprayed directly from the can.
Pro Classic wont spray directly. I f do get it to you will probably not have a great finish
 

golfdad

Co-director of Outreach
Dirk
Corporate Member
Product choice is paramount here. As Jeff posted above, the advice from Homestead finishing site is exactly right; 'wall paint' should not be used on furniture - it is too soft and 'blocks' (sticks to things placed on it). An enamel (harder finish) paint should be used. Many here have recommended SW Pro Classic (I heard about this product on NCWW first and consistently), but Benjamin Moore and others likely have comparable products (?). Buy the right product and you won't sorry.
Tintable water based lacquers are also suitable finishes for furniture, although you did not state specifically that those were the projects in your future. Tinted lacquers (choose the color like you do a paint) are available from Target, maybe directly, but certainly from dealers; note that dealers are few and far between and so this likely still requires shipping. Other brands may be suitable as well.

FYI - I started the spray finishing journey in order to 'up my game' in finishing, previously a weak point. I posted earlier about NCWW workshop at Phil's that enabled me to start. I have definitely improved -not without a few hiccups in refinishing furniture for other people. I am trying to follow the advice of 'picking 1-3 types finishes and mastering those', rather than having a different finish on every project. My choice is to use waterborne products entirely (and SealCoat shellac in alcohol). Target has been my choice of vendors and I have not been disappointed with the results. No connection to the company, and I am certain that other vendor products are recommended as well. I know Klingspor's carries General Finishes products, and that several here on NCWW use these (both solvent borne and water borne products).
The waterborne General Finish products are excellent
 

FlyingRon

Board of Directors, Webmaster
Ron
Staff member
Corporate Member
I got an ingersol-rand HVLP gun for my compressor and use it for spraying varnishes. Works reasonably well. A little penetrol or flotrol (depending on what you're spraying) goes a long way.
 

Henry W

HenryW
Senior User
what's the overspray situation like with the Spray-it SP-33000? Would I be able to use it in an open shop without a dedicated finishing room? or would I be looking at getting overspray on everything?
Michael - not sure if anyone else answered your question - but with some products I do end up with overspray - especially the latex products I have sprayed (now I only do those outside). The Target lacquers typically end up a dry powder if not on the piece I am spraying, but it seems like the polyurethane did leave oversprayed layer (I think it was that product).
I do not have a dedicated finish room, and I spray my piece and then leave the shop for at least 20-30 minutes.
 

Rbohno

New User
Rich
There was a really neat system a gentleman demoed for me at the Hickory show last Saturday. It looked like an easy system to use however for the life of me I can’t remember the name. It was a cup gun that had a large blue hose that went from compressor to gun and the cheapest setup was $250. If someone that was there knows the products name let us know, I would like to read up on it.
 

Henry W

HenryW
Senior User
There was a really neat system a gentleman demoed for me at the Hickory show last Saturday. It looked like an easy system to use however for the life of me I can’t remember the name. It was a cup gun that had a large blue hose that went from compressor to gun and the cheapest setup was $250. If someone that was there knows the products name let us know, I would like to read up on it.
I did not stop at the booth, but I seem to recall that Earlex was there; they make turbine spray systems. Also the list of vendors should still be available (online, search Klingspor's Extravaganza 2019) and anything there should be available through Klingspor's (not that they carry every item, but likely could order) because all the sellers there were their vendors
 

Rbohno

New User
Rich
I did not stop at the booth, but I seem to recall that Earlex was there; they make turbine spray systems. Also the list of vendors should still be available (online, search Klingspor's Extravaganza 2019) and anything there should be available through Klingspor's (not that they carry every item, but likely could order) because all the sellers there were their vendors
Thanks Henry,

GOOOOO, ASTROOOS
 

Rbohno

New User
Rich
Thanks Dirk,

I am going to check into them.

Other than meeting all the wonderful folks I enjoyed teaching the kids how to build bird houses. I was a single father till Kristin was 6 so It brought back some great memories.

Thanks Again
 

FrankK

Frank
User
Found a review about Tizuu on the Internet:

Scam web store claiming to sell $400 dollar SE BMX bikes for $69. Its just a scam to take your money and card information and they WONT send your product. If you scroll to the bottom of their page, the word copyright is spelled incorrectly... Dont fall for it!!! They are scamming thieves. If youve been scammed go to ic3.gov then file a complaint, and the FBI WILL investigate.
 

Rbohno

New User
Rich
I should have bought the one at the show, he had the Earlex 5500 for $250 and the cheapest I can find it is at Klingspor for $299.
I brought $200 to the show with me to spend and kept walking by there “wondering “ if that was worth it when I could have just ask you guys.
 

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