Sawzall Recommendations??

[quid_non]

Hi All!
I'm in the market for a sawzall and thought I would ask for some advice from users. Which one would you recommend for general framing carpentry use? Can they be used to cut metal (i.e. ~5/8 " bolts)? Also any comments on batt vs AC power would be appreciated.

Thanks for any help!
Best
Wayne

 

[jimwill48]

Have one of both. They serve diff purposes... the AC model is more powerful and is the most useful.. the Batt model is great when you need to do just a quick job... and yes with the correct blade both will cut metal... cut apart an old swing set frame just recently with the AC model..... unless you are going to be working the tar out of one I have had great luck with the cheapo HF model....

JW

 

[SteveColes]

I too have both. I love Milwaulkee AC one. And the Makita lithium Ion Battery one is also great.

 

[Canuck]

I have the Ridgid corded model and am very satisfied with it. Used it to cut through a "retired basketball pole" - 4 inch tubular steel in about 5 minutes. Also used it to prune low hanging limbs on trees with a "Skil - The Ugly" blade. No problems with hacking through an old picnic table; nails and all! Plenty enough power for my type of use.

I did look long and hard at the Milwaukee, but it wasn't at the pricepoint I was looking for, plus there is the "Ridgid Lifetime Warranty".

You may also want to keep an eye on CL. Used ones come up all the time at a reasonable price.

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/tls/417507816.html

Wayne

 

[scsmith42]

I have had the Bosch, Milwaukee 120V, Milwaukee 18V, and Milwaukee 28V models.

The battery packs don't last long before needing recharging - they are extremely convenient but you're not going to get more than a few cuts out of them before needing a recharge. If you go battery, get the highest voltage unit that you can (battery lasts longer). My other 28V tools have an extended run time - just not the sawzall.

For general framing carpentry use I like my Milwaukee 120V model. Yes, they will cut metal, but a porta-band or one of the metal cutting circular saws will do it better.

A sawzall is a GREAT compromise tool, but not good for high accuracy or high production IMO. Nice features to have are quick-change blade releases (which is pretty standard nowadays).

Scott

 

[Travis Porter]

I have a two speed Milwaukee electric. Not a heavy use item, but when you need it, it can't be beat.

 

[Jim Murphy]

I have the 120VAC Milwaukee with orbital action. Certain jobs cannot be done without it. I agree it's low use, but when you need it, nothing else will do. Milwaukee is the "best of breed" in Sawzalls, IMHO.

 

[Toddler]

I like the Milwaukee too, and have owned an AC one for about 7 years now. They feel well made to me and never seem to die.

I'm sure most of the contractor grade reciprocating saws are reasonable. Pick the one you feel is the most comfortable.

Oh, I'd go for one the doesn't require a hex key to extend the end guide. Mine does, and that's a bother the few times I actually needed to extend the thing.

Todd

 

[JimmyC]

I've owned a Milwukee corded for about 20 years now, at the time it was expensive and pretty much the only game in town. I've used it and abused it and it takes a licking and keeps on ticking. Remember one word ...Destruction, because that's pretty much what the were made for.

Good luck,

Jimmy

 

[stoneskippers]

I just bought a Ridgid dual voltage 18/24 battery recip saw today. I'm having to rework some old 2" black iron drain line and vents in our bathroom. I had to remove sheetrock and saw the pipe in 4 places so I could remove it and replace with pvc. The saw works great. Does anyone want to know how much I hate plumbing?:kamahlitu

 

[Rod]

Milwaukee 28V with 3 batteries. (That's 2 extra) Hasn't failed me yet.
Good luck!
Rod

 

[Jim M.]

I too have a 20+ year old Milwaukee AC sawzall. I have torn down and built back at least 3 homes and cut up countless cars when it started its life as a rescue tool on a heavy rescue truck. We would turn the tools over after every 3 years service. It was mine, I used in my jump bag, so I bought it for $5 when we got newer ones. I can't seem to kill it, and definitely got my moneys worth. Jim

 

[junquecol]

If you want a sawzall, then you must buy a Millwalkie. It is a registerd brand name, but if you want a recipricating saw, there are several brands. I have a old (50+ years) true Sawzall, that has never let me down. It has a full metal body-no plastic. Based on the service I have received, I would buy another.

 

[Travis]

The Milwaukee 120 V sawzall with the orbital action. I love mine and I do beleive it will cut through anything, EVEN DIAMOND. :-D

 

[alleng]

i have had the milwaulkie for about 7years now,hasent failed me yet,as for cuttin bolts,with the right blade it willcut em.i dont think you can go wrong with this or dewalt(use dewalt every day on the job)ridgid,or bosch.as for battery powered they are great but onlyfor as long as the battery holds up.get a corded one first,then a battery powered one,theswe usualy come in combo kits anyway

 

[NCPete]

like my DW recip saw, have had both the 6.5 amp and 10 amp version, as well as the 18V. as said elsewhere, the battery pack will not last that long on a recip saw.

something not mentioned elsewhere is that the corded saws generally have a longer blade travel than the cordless ones, which makes for generally more efficient cutting, too. I also love that Skil UGLY blade, and have actually taken down small trees with my 18V recip saw with that blade

 

[jglord]

I have the bigger Makita 120 VAC and it kicks butt. Doing renovations on an old house, with an Ugly blade, it will cut through anything. Have also put a metal blade on it and cut conduit all day, it works great. Recently, I found some blades called Axe - apparently a rescue blade. I like them better than the ugly blade because they are shorter. With nose extended, the don't hit the opposite wall when you just want to cut in an electrical box. I drill a hole first, then cut away - plaster, lath, nails, - it slices right through it all. :eusa_danc:eusa_danc

Doing pretty work can be tough with these machines. I usually get a hole cut close to size and then use a 4-in-1 rasp to refine the work. :icon_thum

I've also used the saw to finish cuts that were too deep for my 8 1/4" worm drive saw on post and beam work.

The Milwaukee looks great but it was too pricey when I bought mine 4 or 5 years ago. The Makita has done well for me. IMHO - Having a simple lever to move the nose plate and quick change blades are definitely both very worthwhile features.

 

[Nativespec]

I have the PC Tiger Saw. My brother has the Tiger Saw with the angle adjusting head-quite a feature for the hard to get to places. I doubt you will find much difference in the power between Dewalt, PC and Milwaukee. The only Milwaukee tool I have is a small right angle drill that I paid too much for.

Thanks,

David

 

[DaveD]

Milwaukee 120V all the way. They have various sizes (amperages). The more the better(IMHO). I have used mine for lots of heavy duty demolition over the years both wood and cars. Personally I'd stay away from the rotary action models. That is just another piece of engineering that is susceptible to failure if you are into the more heavy duty demolition type of activity.

Good bi-metal saw blades make a world of difference. Don't cheap on the blades no matter what you buy

 

[Bas]

I have the bigger Makita 120 VAC and it kicks butt. Doing renovations on an old house, with an Ugly blade, it will cut through anything.

Would it cut through a water heater? I need to cut one up so I can get it out of the basement/ crawlspace....Or am I better off renting something?

Bas.