Satin not satin

tvrgeek

Scott
User
Trying to finish a project with satin poly. First, it is way too glossy and I get way too many tiny bubbles. I( Tried spray, brush, rag. Can block it down fine, but can't find the right final buffing. 0000 is way too course. Even 1200 wet-dry.

How does one get a really smooth satin?

Wondering if Minwax is messed up as it says satin, but there is no ground glass or whatever in the bottom of the cans ( two)
 

Graywolf

Board of Directors, President
Richard
Staff member
Corporate Member
It’s. very rare that I use a poly of any kind in the past several years. However, in the past when I did used a lot of polys I never had any air bubbles or sheen problems. Based on what you have described it sounds as though you just got a hold of a bad lot. I would buy a new can and give it a try. Good luck.
 

walnutjerry

Jerry
Senior User
Trying to finish a project with satin poly. First, it is way too glossy and I get way too many tiny bubbles. I( Tried spray, brush, rag. Can block it down fine, but can't find the right final buffing. 0000 is way too course. Even 1200 wet-dry.

How does one get a really smooth satin?

Wondering if Minwax is messed up as it says satin, but there is no ground glass or whatever in the bottom of the cans ( two)
I used the minwax satin over acrilyc on game boards when I was doing craft shows. My final steps were very lightly touch with 240 grit or finer and lastly a piece of brown paper bag rubbed over it lightly. worked for me.
 

drw

Donn
Corporate Member
by NEVER using Minwax products......
I am sorry Chris, but I have always used Minwax Wipe On Poly and have never experienced an issue described by Scott. While I am sure there are other brands that will yield great results, I do not think it fair to suggest that Minwax is an inferior product.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Trying to finish a project with satin poly. First, it is way too glossy and I get way too many tiny bubbles. I( Tried spray, brush, rag. Can block it down fine, but can't find the right final buffing. 0000 is way too course. Even 1200 wet-dry.

How does one get a really smooth satin?

Wondering if Minwax is messed up as it says satin, but there is no ground glass or whatever in the bottom of the cans ( two)
Waiting for the Minwax pro to enlighten us. Every time I have tried to use it I had the same issue. Always ended up throwing the rest of the can away. For some, the micro bubbles are acceptable, not for me.

If you are referring to the WB poly that is what I tried. I know with WB the age of the finish can cause that. My trials was directly after purchase though.

With any finish, if the coat is applied too thick, the carrier cannot escape and we get bubbles.

But that stuff is just a mess.

I can almost get it right by spraying and keeping the coat really thin. But then it needs curing and buffing after each coat.
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
I am sorry Chris, but I have always used Minwax Wipe On Poly and have never experienced an issue described by Scott. While I am sure there are other brands that will yield great results, I do not think it fair to suggest that Minwax is an inferior product.
There are FAR superior products on the market nowadays. Easier to apply, perfect, flawless results. Im speaking of General finishes , ArmRseal, performance top coat, just to name a couple. Also waterlox comes to mind as well....
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
This is a 8/4 Walnut counter top today. Finishing took 1 3/4 hours including sanding first coat and drying times. Three coats, 90 drops Transtint dye for one quart in the second coat only

Sherwin Williams medium rubbed precat, T77.

The picture does not do it justice, came out really nice.

271969E0-A100-46BC-940B-B838E8A8D076.jpeg
 
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tvrgeek

Scott
User
Where I am very much going to look at pre-cat, my problem right now is with a vanity with poly. Just doing the doors to match the base. I sprayed the base an am putting up with the finish as it is basically not visible. I had no better luck spraying it even at 50% reduced.

Funny, I am sitting at my desk I brushed with some local big-box brand some 15 years ago, and it is just fine. It is not one bad can, as I used some I had and thought it must have been bad, so bought a new can. Same results.

I know some seem to dislike Minwax products. Is there another locally accessible brand in small quantities, like a pint or quart in a satin finish, or if buffed down. Varathane? I guess Watco wipe on is already reduced enough for spray. Almost wondering if a rattle can top coat is how to get past this.
 

Oka

Board of Directors, Vice President
Casey
Staff member
Corporate Member
I also do this or, some times I'll use vegetable oil or Oil of Olay instead of water. If you want finer then you go to cerium oxide.

Rottenstone, water and a cheesecloth buffer. Buff to the desired sheen
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
We throw away a lot of paint. For me it is a 9 mile drive to the local SW store, versus a 69 mile drive to Raleigh. That said they don’t carry any of the main 5 industrial brands, neither can they color match.
Willem, the OP was looking for "small qty" topcoats....
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Willem, the OP was looking for "small qty" topcoats....
Yep, Kingspor is a good suggestion, probably the best source.

I meant to say we have a tough time due to location. The local SW store is pretty limited. For most color matches I have to mail a sample to Charlotte, wait five days and pay $40 shipping.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
User
Went to Klingspor's WEB. Most are water based. Might make the loop ( K-P, Woodcraft) as I need to hit a couple plumbing supply houses too.

Anyway, about finished my second cup, so can go sand out the pimples from yesterdays brush coat and see what I can do. Might need to put them in my "curing oven" ( shop attic. Seems to speed up curing by days!)

Seems SW stores vary a lot. Some have no more than DIY house paint, and even that, out of stock on a lot.
 

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