Sandblasting?

[BKind2Anmls]

I have some large, old metal racks that I want to put out in my wood shed to store lumber. Imagine ladders with rails running between them. I know nothing about metal but I do know that there are six racks and a LOT of rust and it would take forever to remove with my drill and a wire brush.

Due to my limited knowledge on metal, I bought a lot of those grey pipe insulators after last winter when they went on clearance, the foam tubes that are about 3' long. I was going to wrap them around the part of the pipe that my lumber would rest on (the rungs of the ladder, so to speak) so the rust wouldn't stain any wood.

Then I started thinking about sandblasting.

I know nothing about sandblasting.

Would a Harbor Freight sandblasting unit make short work of removing the rust? Would it be cost effective? I figured I would have to spray the racks after with Rustoleum. Is this something I should even attempt? Is there a certain sized unit that would work? If it will be a long, expensive project, I'll just stick with the foam pipe wrap.

Thanks for any advice.

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[nn4jw]

For this I'd suggest just wire brushing off most of the rust and then painting it with a chemical rust converter such as:http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-ru...ode=ga110070&gclid=CNeB5eLLtLYCFQQEnQodOT8Avw . The rust converter isn't cheap but it costs a lot less than a sand blaster and will halt further rusting pretty well. Then paint over it with any good exterior paint of your choosing. I've had good results with this method.

 

[scsmith42]

Hi Susan. The sandblaster is the cheap part - you need a high CFM compressor to make it work. Mine is 27 cfm and it is barely adequate for continuous duty blasting with a small machine.

 

[Mark Gottesman]

Here's my two cents>

Put them in your wood shed as is. Make sure that contact surfaces are covered so that the racks wont stain your wood.

If they are in a dry area they won't rust anymore and once they are filled with wood you won't see that much of the racks.

If you are dead set on gussying them up check for a mobile sandblaster. They are on CL sometimes and in the yellow pages. You might also check the auto shops. Sometimes they will take on extra work. Believe me, it is a job well worth farming out.

Paint: like nn4jw said get some sort of primer on it and roll a couple of coats of porch paint and you will be good to go.

 

[woodworker2000]

Before I bought a sandblaster, I would purchase a HF 4" - 4 1/2" angle grinder and a twisted wire cup (also from HF). Don't use a grinding wheel/disc...use the twisted wire cup. The angle grinder is usually on sale for about $15-$20 and the twisted wire cup is around $5. That will take the rust off pretty quickly. If you take this route, make sure you wear eye protection, long sleeve shirt and long pants, leather gloves, ear protection and a dust mask...the wire cup will sometimes shoot out small pieces of wire that will stick you (doesn't hurt that badly) but you do not want it to get into your eye. The last time I did it, I found one of those full face shields w/safety goggles underneath to work the best (all purchased from HF). You can either just smooth the rust out to take primer or work it to bare metal. The HF angle grinder will vibrate much more than a nicer, more expensive one but I consider it one of the HF "gems". I've had the same one for several years and it is still running strong (it even comes with a spare set of motor brushes).

 

[BKind2Anmls]

Thanks everyone. Didn't know about needing a compressor so sandblasting is out for me. Mark, since I don't care about how it looks, it's nice to know they won't rust away once I get them covered. If they outlast me (maybe another 30 years), I'll be happy.

 

[Gofor]

Another option is a chemical "rust remover/ neutralizer" for want of a better term. Basically they are an acid solution that will remove the light red rust and then will turn the heavier rust black. From a chemical stand-point, the red rust is the iron actively combining with oxygen and eating away. Black rust has used up the available oxygen and actually seals the underlying iron from more corrosion.

The products are sold as Rust Converter or Rust Neutralizer, and are available at most hardware, borgs, etc. Some come in a jug and others in a spray can. Follow the safety instructions on the container. (basically rubber gloves, eye protection and good ventilation). After they dry just hit them with a coat of paint (rattle can or brush. They will provide a good surface for paint adhesion.

Just another option

Go

 

[Gotcha6]

Just get some appropriately sized light weight PVC pipe and slit it to cover the tubes. It can be held in place with a self drilling drywall screw.

 

[Sealeveler]

I use Ospho,it works great down here in salt waterville,then some aluminum paint.Cover the bars with a strip of wood and then your lumber and you are good to go.
Tony

 

[charlie jones]

Having done quite a bit of sandblasting, Blasting is dirty and hard and doing small tubes like that uses an exorbant amount of sand. I sometimes use a paint that NAPA sells that goes over rust. You have to get the loose stuff off then brush on two coats. It is called "Chassis Saver"

 

[Gofor]

I use Ospho,it works great down here in salt waterville,then some aluminum paint.Cover the bars with a strip of wood and then your lumber and you are good to go.
Tony

I was thinking about Ospho when I posted earlier, but didn't know where Susan might find it. Its also one of the best pre-treatments if you are wanting to get paint to stick to galvanized metal.

Go

 

[BKind2Anmls]

So you spray this stuff on and you don't have to wipe it off? Does it harden the flaky rust stuff?

 

[Sealeveler]

I wire brush the loose rust off then a couple coats and that's it,then you're ready for your finish coat.Aluminum,Rustoleum or other paint to protect it.Can be sprayed but I usually brush it.
Tony