Safely working on high walls - Suggestion needed.

kurtwp

New User
Kurt
Need some ideas on how to safely work on high walls. I am looking to add shiplap to this wall. The ceiling is 20feet high and the top of the center box if 9 feet down from the ceiling. I plan to start at the top and work my way down.

Any suggestion on scaffolding or aids that can help me work safely at that height.

Kurt
20190310_185323.jpg
 

ScottM

Scott
Staff member
Corporate Member
The safest way is to write a check and have someone else install it. Your next best option would be to rent or borrow scaffolding.
 

Roy G

Roy
Senior User
I've seen a man-lift that would get you up that high. It rolls around and puts you in position before it lifts you up. Might need a wide door to access inside your house. Scaffolding would be safe, too.

Roy G
 

FlyingRon

Moderator
Ron
I have a manlift that goes straight up putting my feet about 24' above the floor. I've also got those yellow scaffolding that Northern Tools sells and I'll tell you the lift is a lot steadier. The lift is designed to go through standard doors, but if you've got finished floors you'll need to put something down over them as it has pretty crude wheels.

Years ago, I used a lightweight compressed air powered lift but damned if I could find them any more to rent or buy.
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
I scrapped popcorn off my ceilings from scaffolding. When I did the second area I bought two sections of the yellow, narrow, scaffolding that Northern sells. I've never used a manlift but I thought the scaffolding was OK. The peak height I was working at is 16.5 feet, however, so you would be a little higher. The first area I did was bigger and I used normal scaffold, rented, for most of it. I didn't like the normal scaffold as well because I could not adjust the height to a comfortable level. The narrow scaffold adjusts in something like 2 inch increments so it is pretty flexible. I used it on the stairs when I did the first area and wished I'd just used it on the whole project. After the popcorn was removed I did a little mud work and painted. I think your shiplap is simpler and would make height flexibility even more important so you can change your height as you go. Lift might work even better from what the other guys are saying.
 

Skymaster

New User
Jack
Inside man lift wood be a disaster, scaffolding is your second best choice,Hire a skilled trim carpenter is the first.Unless you have done this before, several times, it is NOT as simple as you think. TRUST ME ON THIS< been there did that quite a few times. Actually needs 2 people at minimum to be somewhat efficient
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
+1 for traditional scaffolding and aluminum walk boards. If you're starting at the top, you can set up the scaffolding so that one side works as a walking surface and the other as a cutting/work surface. Just be sure you have something over the cutting area to prevent cutting the walk boards. You would even be able to set up a miter saw if you needed to, but don't count on being able to work much more than 18" out from the scaffolding on either side. How wide is that center box? Most buck style scaffolds come either 7' or 8' in length. You'd have to omit the braces on one side of the first few sections. Set the scaffolding up about arm's length from the wall for a comfortable working distance. Too close is awkward.
Scissor lifts are great, but they are also heavy. Will the floor support a concentrated load from one of these? Also, if it's narrow enough to go through a door, can you safely set up a work surface on it? I would almost use a pump jack like some masons use for residential work if the circumstances warranted it over collapsing a floor.
 

golfdad

Co-director of Outreach
Dirk
Corporate Member
Traditional scaffold is by far your best bet. Rent on scaffold is cheap and as Dennis said most scissor lifts are far to heavy for a residential floor system. And any mason that uses a pump jackfor all that weigt is asking for an accident
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
I didn't think of pump jacks but that could work if the floor will support the 4x4 and you can support the top. The top brace has to be secured to something, normally the roof. I used them years ago when I resided 3 sides of our two story house. I was doing it nights and weekends so it was cheaper just to buy them than to rent. I also like not having to worry about getting tools back or getting charged more. So whenever the cost to own or rent are close, I own. Provided I have a place to store.

You don't need aluminum walk boards with the narrow scaffold I would use, the walk board is an integral part of that system - the metal frame both braces the scaffold and provides your work surface. Mine has 1/2 plywood over 3/4 steel angle iron. It is plenty sturdy for 1 person. I would check before getting two guys on it - and it wouldn't be enough space for two people to work comfortably. It has wheels so if you had a person on the ground cutting and handing boards up, they could reposition you. I wouldn't want to be on the scaffold while they did it, however. I use a step ladder to get on and off, I also didn't trust it to stay put while I climbed it. Full size scaffold is so much bigger and heavier I had no issue with climbing on it. If I couldn't reach side to side of the space you want to cover, I would probably make sure I could nail to two or three studs in the center from one location of the scaffold. If so, you could easily get all the boards up from one spot and go back and do the ends from repositioned scaffold or a ladder. Moving the scaffold platform on the narrow scaffold is neither real hard or real easy, however. You have to get off but you can do a corner at a time. Four sets so you could cover the entire area and just reposition down as you get board installed would work better. That would also allow two people to be up with one cutting. and probably both nailing (pass a nailer or have two).
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
The scaffolding Jim is referring to we call Perry or Bakers' scaffolding. Outriggers are available for them to provide more stability but they are not made to be moved while occupied. As for pump jacks puncturing the floor, a few plies of 3/4" plywood under the posts (this is true for tube scaffolding too unless you have leveling legs with a plate on the bottom) will prevent this.
As a general rule, you should provide yourself and others with a scaffolding support system that allows the user to concentrate on the task at hand rather than have to worry they're about to take a flying leap. You'll get a better product in the long run.
 

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