J
jeff...
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Hey guys could you please give a little tutorial on how to surface rough cut lumber into S4S. I've tried to put the steps into words but it's not making any sense.
Thanks
Thanks
S4S how to
- Thread starter jeff...
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Here's how I go about it. Probably not the only way to achieve the same results but it works for me. The following information is assuming that your machines are tuned and set up, because if not, nothing is going to work right.
I start by purchasing my rough stock from Jeff.../dried by Scott. The reason for this is the excellent cost and quality...crap in crap out.
Because the above mentioned lumber purveyors like to make wide boards, I first rip the stock on the BS to a size that will fit my jointer, and cross cut to a length greater than my final pieces dimension. Because Jeff... does such a good job in edging his lumber the edge is straight enough to run along my BS fence. If not I will pop a chalk line to give a straight line and free hand BS to that.
Then I move over to the jointer. I face joint the stock until I have jointed the entire face. Generally 2-3 passes at a 1/16th" cut will do the trick.
Then I move to the planer. I set the planer for the thickest piece of stock and start to run it all through. Once I have planed all the non-jointed faces parallel, I will flip the stock and run the other faces through to equalize the amount of wood removed from both sides of the board. Plane to the desired thickness.
Then I go back to the jointer and flatten/square up one edge of the stock. The reason that I don't do this before planing is that doing it after gives me the option of running either face against the fence according to which way the grain is running. I get less chip out this way.
Then the s3s stock is taken to the TS and ripped with a Glue-line rip blade or any other high quality ripping blade to bring the stock to final dimension and achieve the final square edge.
Finally the final cross cutting is done to bring the piece to it's ultimate working size.
Then I screw up the joinery, and start back at the begining....lesson - mill a few extra pieces so you don't have to set up to do it all again.
MTCW,
Dave
I start by purchasing my rough stock from Jeff.../dried by Scott. The reason for this is the excellent cost and quality...crap in crap out.
Because the above mentioned lumber purveyors like to make wide boards, I first rip the stock on the BS to a size that will fit my jointer, and cross cut to a length greater than my final pieces dimension. Because Jeff... does such a good job in edging his lumber the edge is straight enough to run along my BS fence. If not I will pop a chalk line to give a straight line and free hand BS to that.
Then I move over to the jointer. I face joint the stock until I have jointed the entire face. Generally 2-3 passes at a 1/16th" cut will do the trick.
Then I move to the planer. I set the planer for the thickest piece of stock and start to run it all through. Once I have planed all the non-jointed faces parallel, I will flip the stock and run the other faces through to equalize the amount of wood removed from both sides of the board. Plane to the desired thickness.
Then I go back to the jointer and flatten/square up one edge of the stock. The reason that I don't do this before planing is that doing it after gives me the option of running either face against the fence according to which way the grain is running. I get less chip out this way.
Then the s3s stock is taken to the TS and ripped with a Glue-line rip blade or any other high quality ripping blade to bring the stock to final dimension and achieve the final square edge.
Finally the final cross cutting is done to bring the piece to it's ultimate working size.
Then I screw up the joinery, and start back at the begining....lesson - mill a few extra pieces so you don't have to set up to do it all again.
MTCW,
Dave
I buy the wood (or dig it out of my stash)
Rough cut it to width on the bandsaw and length on the mitersaw.
Then I joint it flat on one face on my jointer. I normally don't have to rip it as my jointer is big enough to cut most lumber you can get now. :gar-La;
I joint one edge.
I mark both of these edges with chalk so I know which are my flat edges.
I then go back to the bandsaw and resaw all the boards to 3/16" of finished dimensions with the bandsaw. Again no need to rip as my big bandsaw will resaw most lumber you can get now. :gar-La;
Plane to finished thickess.
Rip to finished size on the table saw.
If I am doing glue ups (table tops, tops of dressers, etc), I change around a bit for those parts.
After I joint the faces and edges, i go ahead and rip to size on the table saw, and then glue up the panels.
If they are small enough after glue up, I will plane them with the planer. If they are not, I used the wide belt sander.:gar-La;
Ok, finished gloating. Overall, I do what DaveO does, but with the exception of resawing the boards. If you have a bandsaw that does ok resawing, it makes it a whole lot easier resawing and then final planing. A lot less shavings, and easier on the planer IMO.
Rough cut it to width on the bandsaw and length on the mitersaw.
Then I joint it flat on one face on my jointer. I normally don't have to rip it as my jointer is big enough to cut most lumber you can get now. :gar-La;
I joint one edge.
I mark both of these edges with chalk so I know which are my flat edges.
I then go back to the bandsaw and resaw all the boards to 3/16" of finished dimensions with the bandsaw. Again no need to rip as my big bandsaw will resaw most lumber you can get now. :gar-La;
Plane to finished thickess.
Rip to finished size on the table saw.
If I am doing glue ups (table tops, tops of dressers, etc), I change around a bit for those parts.
After I joint the faces and edges, i go ahead and rip to size on the table saw, and then glue up the panels.
If they are small enough after glue up, I will plane them with the planer. If they are not, I used the wide belt sander.:gar-La;
Ok, finished gloating. Overall, I do what DaveO does, but with the exception of resawing the boards. If you have a bandsaw that does ok resawing, it makes it a whole lot easier resawing and then final planing. A lot less shavings, and easier on the planer IMO.
Travis you must have a bunch of veneer now. What do you do with all the thin sheets you rip off on your BS?
Dave
OP
OP
jeff...
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I ran across a article, how to joint wide boards on a planer for those who have a small jointers or no jointer at all.
Be sure and watch the video... it's a pretty slick planer sled
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=5245
Thanks
Be sure and watch the video... it's a pretty slick planer sled
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=5245
Thanks
Jeff, for my Quartersawn Oak business, I did some research as to how this is handled in commercial plants. Based upon that info, I'm planning to make S4S as follows:
1 - run the board through a jointer-planer. I have a 25" Oliver that I'll be using for this task. The Oliver is nice because the feed system is a belt with a lot of spring loaded pins that push the board though, and it doesn't flatter the board out the way that the feed rollers on a planer does.
2- rip one edge of the board with a straight line rip saw. I'll be using a Mattison 202 for that.
3- either rip the other side with the SLR, or run it though a 4 head moulder.
Hope this helps.
Scott
1 - run the board through a jointer-planer. I have a 25" Oliver that I'll be using for this task. The Oliver is nice because the feed system is a belt with a lot of spring loaded pins that push the board though, and it doesn't flatter the board out the way that the feed rollers on a planer does.
2- rip one edge of the board with a straight line rip saw. I'll be using a Mattison 202 for that.
3- either rip the other side with the SLR, or run it though a 4 head moulder.
Hope this helps.
Scott
My operation:
Cut the stock to rough length using either the miter saw or the circular saw (or even a hand saw...). I'll generally leave each piece ~2" oversided. Shorter boards are much, much easier to work with when you have modest tools.
If the board is narrow enough for the jointer, I start by jointing one face. I generally select the concave side down, so that I have two points of support (convex side down would rock). Then, using the freshly jointed face against the fence, I joint one edge. The stock is now S2S.
I plane the opposing face until its flat, and get the stock S3S. If I took a lot off the opposing face, I take some off the jointed face as well to prevent warpage. I usually leave the boards a little oversized and stop at this point, to let the wood re-acclimate. After re-acclimating, I check to make sure things are still flat and square. Sometimes, a touch-up on the jointer is needed. I then plane it to final thickness.
To get the final side straight, I rip the board on the table saw with the jointed edge against the fence. The stock is now flat & square.
If the board is too wide for the jointer, but is reasonably flat, I'll joint one edge, then rip it to width on the table saw, using the jointed edge against the table saw fence. I then basically repeat the procedure. The jointed edge will be re-jointed a bit to make it 90 degrees to the face.
If the board is too wide and is twisted, bowed, cupped, wavy or otherwise unjointable, I hot glue it to a piece of MDF with one edge sticking out, and rip the edge straight on the table saw. Then rip it to width. If it's important to keep the board intact, I'll crosscut it to rough length and joint it using the planer and a sled.
If I ever have a board that's wider than 12", I'll call Travis
Cut the stock to rough length using either the miter saw or the circular saw (or even a hand saw...). I'll generally leave each piece ~2" oversided. Shorter boards are much, much easier to work with when you have modest tools.
If the board is narrow enough for the jointer, I start by jointing one face. I generally select the concave side down, so that I have two points of support (convex side down would rock). Then, using the freshly jointed face against the fence, I joint one edge. The stock is now S2S.
I plane the opposing face until its flat, and get the stock S3S. If I took a lot off the opposing face, I take some off the jointed face as well to prevent warpage. I usually leave the boards a little oversized and stop at this point, to let the wood re-acclimate. After re-acclimating, I check to make sure things are still flat and square. Sometimes, a touch-up on the jointer is needed. I then plane it to final thickness.
To get the final side straight, I rip the board on the table saw with the jointed edge against the fence. The stock is now flat & square.
If the board is too wide for the jointer, but is reasonably flat, I'll joint one edge, then rip it to width on the table saw, using the jointed edge against the table saw fence. I then basically repeat the procedure. The jointed edge will be re-jointed a bit to make it 90 degrees to the face.
If the board is too wide and is twisted, bowed, cupped, wavy or otherwise unjointable, I hot glue it to a piece of MDF with one edge sticking out, and rip the edge straight on the table saw. Then rip it to width. If it's important to keep the board intact, I'll crosscut it to rough length and joint it using the planer and a sled.
If I ever have a board that's wider than 12", I'll call Travis
Actually, I do. I have been tossing it. Want me to save you some?
Then I screw up the joinery, and start back at the begining....
MTCW,
Dave
Maybe thats why it took me over 4 months to complete my last project
:rotflm: :rotflm:
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