Router Table Update

[thrt15nc]

Hi all. Things travel slowly in my part of the world. But here's a couple of pics of my table so far. And what was I thinking??? Isn't there like 150 holes for router bits in those drawers??? Anybody need any of their bits stored??

I've got the dust chute stuff cut out, just haven't gotten it in yet. I'll be looking for an insert then after this is done. Question for those that have built this type, how'd you glue in the plastic pipe piece to the back? I believe the plans say to use poly glue? Anybody else do something different? Thanks for looking!!

Tom

Top I built just setting on the cabinet.

 

[NZAPP1]

:icon_thum :icon_thum Tom your router table is lookin good nice work :eusa_clap

 

[DaveO]

Tom, looking great :eusa_clap :eusa_clap I didn't drill bit holes in all my drawers and now I wish I did. Router bit seem to multiply like rabbits in my shop. For my DC I used a 6" square mounting plate that I got at Klingspor. It stands about a 1" proud of the surface and has a flange for mounting screws, and of course a 4" round pipe connection. I cut a square hole to match the inside dimension of the plate. I can take some pics of it, if there aren't any in my album, if you're interested.
Dave

 

[sapwood]

Wow Tom! That's an uptown looking router table . . . lots of drawers and skirts around the casters. :icon_thum I'm sure it will be a joy to use.

Roger

 

[thrt15nc]

Thanks Dave, I think I know what you're talking about. I may have to re-think the small hole. I have some reservations about it and that's why I was asking about the glue.

Thanks for the kind words Roger!! I went with two swivels on the front and two stationary on the back. I didn't like the look of the big space between the swivels so I put that piece in there. I can still get to the locks easy enough. I think the skirted look gives a cleaner look. Thanks again.

Tom

 

[McRabbet]

Tom,

I found that Gorilla Glue will work well to bond PVC to wood. I recommend scratching up the surface of the PVC to provide some extra bite. I used it to build my homemade Blast Gates (See the Dust Collection section of my Photo Gallery for pics). I do agree with DaveO that you may want to increase the size of the fitting to allow more air flow.

Rob

 

[thrt15nc]

Rob, that is a sweet setup!! I really enjoy looking at peoples work like that. So on the holes in the wood for the pipe, are the holes about a 1/4 inch bigger than the pipe, with the pipe then centered in them?

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Canuck]

Very nice RT, Tom!!!:eusa_danc :eusa_clap :eusa_danc :eusa_clap :eusa_danc

Like DaveO said, I am sure that you will end up accumulating plenty of bits while giving this new workstation a workout!!

What are your plans as far as a fence is concerned?

Fine cabinetry, I must say!!!

Wayne

 

[thrt15nc]

Thanks Wayne. I had planned on just continuing on with the plans for the fence that came with the NYW plans. But I've got lots of magazines with fence plans, fence upgrade ideas, etc. So my plan is to spend some time going through those and trying to build my own "ultimate" fence!!! Mind you, my plans move very very slowly................:lol: :lol: :lol:

Tom

 

[cpowell]

Wow, that's looking pretty sporty there Tom!! I like it. :icon_thum

You must fill every hole with a router bit and then make more holes. :lol: :lol:

I used the same DC hardware as DaveO, square mounting flange.

Keep the pics coming.

Chuck

 

[Splinter]

Nice looking RT Tom. :eusa_clap :eusa_clap You are going to really like the table.

I didn't glue in my PVC pipe. I cut the 3" hole so the PVC would be a snug fit. I have been playing with the length of pipe I need inside the cabinet to get the best dust/chip collection. I don't think I have found the correct length yet. Those bit trays are really a nice place to store bits. Gives you an excuse to but more bits.:lol:

 

[McRabbet]

Rob, that is a sweet setup!! I really enjoy looking at peoples work like that. So on the holes in the wood for the pipe, are the holes about a 1/4 inch bigger than the pipe, with the pipe then centered in them?

Thanks,

Tom

Tom, there is less slop in the holes than 1/4"; Gorilla Glue is a polyurethane resin glue (PRG) and expands into a foam as it cures -- I cut the holes with a circle cutter on my drill press and the 4" PVC couplings I used slide in without pounding them into the openings. For a full sequence of pictures and descriptions, go to this thread I posted last February that describes how I made the blast gates and other improvements in my Dust collection system. As one can expect, it is still a work in progress! :eusa_thin

Rob

 

[Monty]

Looks really nice - you're going to enjoy using that for sure!

 

[thrt15nc]

Thanks for all the comments. I like the table already. I just threw the top on quick yesterday (backwards no less as you can see in the pics) to see what it would look like and I like it. On the top, the plans call for slots drilled and cut into the top. I didn't care for that and I'll add a couple more pieces of T-track perp to the guide on there already after I've got the final design of the fence down. Sounds like I'll increase the size of the dust collection hole. And probably go with a flange like DaveO and others have mentioned. I think those make a fairly clean look.

Tom

 

[Travis]

Tom,

So that is the NYW design you are doing. I am interested in what you are doing because I plan on starting this same project in a few weeks. I am assuming that you are going to run the T-Tracks perpendicular to the miter slot. I think that that Dave O did the router table shown in his photo galary. Looking good.:icon_thum

 

[thrt15nc]

Travis, yes it's Norm's design. I think there's a bunch of them in the galleries here. All of them nicer than mine I think. Yes I'll run some more t-track on the top. At least pieces for the fence perpendicular to the guide that's there. I think some people run them the depth of the top, others not. I'd like to know what others have done. I think I've seen people have featherboards in smaller tracks that go all the way across the top. I'm open for suggestions also. Good luck with your project.

Tom

 

[chris99z71]

I had a similar DC issue when I bought my unisaw (used). It didn't have the cover/DC port below the motor. I cut a piece of 1/2" MDF, cut a hole with a 4 1/2" hole saw and mounted one of these to it (couldn't find a pic of the 4" model, but you get the point):

They're about $4 or $5 at Woodcraft.
One of these fits very securely onto the end of the DC hose and makes connection a snap.

You can kinda-sorta see it in this pic:

 

[DaveO]

I ran T-tracks for my fence to anchor to, and a miter track for a miter guage in the front of the table. If I had it to do again, I would anchor the fence in slots all the way through the table. Often I have to stop and blow out the accumulated dust from the T-tracks, not a major fault, but just a little annoying :eusa_doh:
I never use my miter slot, but have had work pieces get a little hung up on it, again slightly annoying. I have found either a miter sled that rides against the fence, or something as simple as a nice square block of wood works as well, and the block offers backer-board protection.
Hindsight's 20-20 :eusa_doh::eusa_doh:

Dave

 

[thrt15nc]

Dave I see what you mean about the slots keeping the dust out better, but I think I'll go with the metal guides. I've heard and read about quite a few people running the fence slots all the way across the table. Some people think it's silly but I don't know that I actually ever considered not doing it that way. I got two of the Rockler T-track packs on dirt cheap sale a long time ago and they're just waiting to go in my table. In all the routing I've done on a 20 year old piece of junk metal Sears tabletop table, I may have used the miter slot two times also. Like you, I use the piece of block against the sled.

I was just out cleaning up some pencil lines on the drawers and putting some bits in them. Seems I have more bits than I thought!!!! Those Woodcraft $5 bit sales have been good to me. :lol:

Tom