Router Table Fence - Not from a plan

[shoeless]

Hi. I am about to build a new router table fence and I'd like to include to bells and whistles that I've seen on some of the manufactured ones...namely a t-slot riding fence and another t-slot on the face to allow for featherboard/stop-block attachments. Here are my questions:

1) As a general rule, how far up on the face of the fence do you place the groove for stop-block/featherboard attachments?
2) On the router table top, how far in do you stop the t-slot for adjusting the fence.

My thoughts were to make the fence 6" high and place the slot 4" up. (I may also add a second vertical to allow the face to have a variable open/close slot depending on the size of the bit I am using.)

To adjust/move the fence, my thought was to place the 2-t-slots starting from the back of the table to the center of the table where the hole for the router would go.

Does that sound reasonable?

Thanks!

 

[froglips]

Sounds like fun!

One thing to consider, which always challenges my mind, is that a router is round. I mention this not only to reinforce my own mental road blocks, but also to offer up some alternatives to the t-tracks in the table.

One end of your fence pivots on a dowl. Then cut a grooved arc at the other end. Various locking options could be fashioned for the groove.

Sort of like a pendulem in a clock.

Another option is to make a fence longer than your table and clamp it at the edges of the table.

Keep us posted on your project!

Jim

 

[cpw]

My thoughts were to make the fence 6" high and place the slot 4" up. (I may also add a second vertical to allow the face to have a variable open/close slot depending on the size of the bit I am using.)

6" sounds a bit tall for most operations, to me. I'm not at home, but I think my fence is around 3" tall and I think the t-slots are probably around 2" up. You might think about if you are going to make your attachments or purchase them, and what kinds of limits purchase attachments might present. I saw a shop made like the attached plan for a High-Low router fence that might work for you.

 

[DaveO]

Joe here is my fence. It was done in the style ala Nahm, but without the plans.

I used Incra T-tracks for the fence adjustment mech. (something I would reconsider if making it again, and just clamp it to the table). Mine stop just behind the center of the router collet, but I can push the fence past the bit due to the placement of the adjustment knobs. I would say that you would want your fence to pass the bit a little bit, so how far to set the tracks will be dependent on how you build the fence.
I also used Incra miter track for a miter slot and the leftover piece on the fence for a Benchdog featherboard set up. The bottom of the track is at 5" above the table surface. It has worked well in that location for everything I have done so far. Again I think your placement would depend on the type of featherboard that you are planning to use. It should allow the tips of the FB to come within a 1/2" of the table surface, or possibly all the way down to it.
I also used some more T-track to allow the two wings of the fence to move in and out from the bit adjusting the gap depending on bit diameter.
HTH,
Dave

 

[shoeless]

I hadn't even considered that as an option, but I've already purchased a t-track kit from Rockler (when they has their two-fer sale. I guess I am committed to that way.

As far as making the fence longer and using clamps, that's the way I've operated for the past 8 years with a piece of 5/4 red oak. That fence has seen better days and its replacement time has come.

As a newbie to this site and seeing all the pictures of other's shops has inspired me to spruce up my own! :-D

Thanks for the advice!

Sounds like fun!

One thing to consider, which always challenges my mind, is that a router is round. I mention this not only to reinforce my own mental road blocks, but also to offer up some alternatives to the t-tracks in the table.

One end of your fence pivots on a dowl. Then cut a grooved arc at the other end. Various locking options could be fashioned for the groove.

Sort of like a pendulem in a clock.

Another option is to make a fence longer than your table and clamp it at the edges of the table.

Keep us posted on your project!

Jim

 

[shoeless]

That's another interesting idea. Kill two birds with one stone, er fence, although I envisioned something more along the lines of DaveO's fence below. The more I think of things, I don't think I'll have a need for such a high fence...my panel cutter is horizontal. I may just split the difference and make it 4" with the t-track at 2" and custom make featherboards to fit. Thanks for sharing the plan...my fence may still very well turn out that way.

6" sounds a bit tall for most operations, to me. I'm not at home, but I think my fence is around 3" tall and I think the t-slots are probably around 2" up. You might think about if you are going to make your attachments or purchase them, and what kinds of limits purchase attachments might present. I saw a shop made like the attached plan for a High-Low router fence that might work for you.

 

[shoeless]

That actually helped A LOT! Thanks Dave...I at least know what to think about going into this now. Curious to know why you would reconsider using the Incra t-tracks as that was what I am planning to use?

 

[DaveO]

Curious to know why you would reconsider using the Incra t-tracks as that was what I am planning to use?

I would reconsider using the T-track as the fence guides. Not the product itself. I think it is a great product. The T-tracks gather a lot of debris, requiring frequent cleaning out. Also I find that using the hex-head bolts with it don't allow for the smoothest adjustment, and can sometimes jump a bit while tightening them down. This could possibly be over-come by using the appropriate t-track bolts or ground down toilet flange bolts. Basically I found that I did a lot of work recessing those tracks into my top, (not to mention the expense) and I could have got the same results by just clamping the fence to the edges of the table. I was advised by several members against it, but I didn't listen :roll:

Dave

 

[alleng]

dave would square head bolts work in the t slots:eusa_thin

 

[DaveO]

I would think so, if they had the same outside diameter :eusa_thin:eusa_thin

Dave

 

[Gofor]

dave would square head bolts work in the t slots:eusa_thin

Problem with square headed bolts is finding them, at least for me.

Go

 

[novice99]

did you say square-headed dolt??

Well then I'm your man!

I won't even tell you about my last bout in the shop :roll::roll::roll::roll:

 

[DIYGUY]

If you are at all interested in saving some space you could do what many others besides myself have done - build it into your tablesaw. Here is a pic of what I came up with - definitely not off the shelf!

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=14764

 

[DavidF]

My original RT before I put it in the TS extension had a pivoting fence and that was perfect! only one end to clamp and could be adjusted with great ease. You could even add a small block to the front with a threaded rod for micro adjustments. I wouldn't bother with a parallel fence, it just isn't necessary on a router table.