Router Table and Lift Options

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stal023

New User
Stal
I am wanting to fork over some money toward a decent router table. I want a fence that isn't a pain in the a$$ and I want to be able to easily change out bits. I am pretty certain I am going to get the Kreg table so that really isn't my question. My question is this; I have a router that has both the plunge base and standard base but my understanding is either I need to buy a new router that has the capabilities to adjust from the top or buy an under table base (like this - except I don't have this router: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007VHPFK).

Would you recommend buying a whole new router that would work out of the box easily with a table, or spend the $ to buy the base? And whichever option you recommend, what do you recommend buying? I currently have a hitachi m12vc router.

(I've posted previous about tables, please, I am not spending the time to make one!)
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
You're going to want a router to dedicate to the router table so you might as well plan to buy one for that purpose. Yes you could swap the router in and out of the table but you'd get tired of that quickly. I like getting a router lift that works well and is easy to adjust and then just buying a router engine without the fixed or plunge base to put in it.

I've gone through a couple of router lifts and the one I like above all others is the Jessem U-Turn lift sold by MLCS Woodworking. As to router engines the Porter Cable 7518 without a base is perfect for the task. I have a Woodpecker fence that I'm also very happy with. My table was made using plans from New Yankee Workshop.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/u-turn-lift.html

The router MLCS shows here also seems to be a good deal. 3.5HP, Variable Speed for 219.
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
I have that DW625 as well as a Milwaukee 5625 and a pair of PC875's that come with above the table adjustment facility. HOWEVER, aside from the fact that I've never found lifts cost effective, the crank handles are in the way half the time I'd use it.

Were I shopping for a lift, the adjustment handle would have to be outside of the feed path, the bit would not shift when the motor is locked or handle released and the bit would stay where I set it when under load.
 

golfdad

Co-director of Outreach
Dirk
Corporate Member
Triton 3 1/2 hp has 1/4 turn bit release.....side/bottom air vents so it dosent collect dust when in the table and it has above the table hgt adjustment for around 260.00 usually. More power than you should ever need and very reliable with excellent customer service. I've had mine in a table for about 7 yrs and its made many a cabinet doors.
 

JohnnyR

John
Corporate Member
I've got the Kreg table with Kreg lift and PC 7518 and very happy with it. As for buying a different brand such as Ken suggested, check out that the handle is long enough to clear your table and be aware that the Kreg support for it's plate is somewhat unique and may not work with other plates. If it works it looks like a good system. I'd also recommend that you keep a dedicated router for the table. The Bosch "lift" appears to only accept certain Bosch routers.
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
The Jessum/MLCS lift comes with an 18" handle shaft and has two different size plates depending on whether you have the Kreg or Woodpecker table top. Just be sure to order the correct size.

It stays locked in position when released and doesn't move under load. I have had it end up with the handle in the way of a long piece once and just turned the handle a quarter turn. My depth was off maybe 1/128th of an inch. Not enough to matter.

This is my second lift, not being happy with the first one even after modifying it once. This one I love.
 

FlyingRon

Moderator
Ron
I've got the Kreg router table that my wife got me for my birthday a few years back. I've been happy with it.
 

Grimmy2016

Administrator
Scott
I'll add on to this discussion. I saw Bills, self made router table top but what I liked was that its base was a cabinet and had a wheel to raise and lower the router itself. Does anyone have recommendations for that?
 

Tim Sherwood

Tim
Corporate Member
Another vote for the big Triton router! You get built in above the table adjustment and a great router, for the price of the lifer alone.
 

ste6168

New User
Mike
I JUST got the Ptree woodworking extension table and fence, I also got a Bosch 1611 to dedicate to the table. So far, in my very limited use, it seems great. I can adjust height from above the table, as well as change bits without removing the router/plate. The fence works, though I am sure a Kreg or incra fence would be nicer. I decided on the Ptree table because the opening seemed to be the standard for lifts, and in the future I will probably add a lift. For now though, the setup is great.
 

Barry W

Co-Director of Outreach
Barry
Corporate Member
Triton 3 1/2 hp has 1/4 turn bit release....3-1/4.side/bottom air vents so it dosent collect dust when in the table and it has above the table hgt adjustment for around 260.00 usually. More power than you should ever need and very reliable with excellent customer service. I've had mine in a table for about 7 yrs and its made many a cabinet doors.

I haven't bought it yet, but am planning to buy the Triton router for my Kreg table. On golfdad's recommendation. :D
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
I built my own lift and put it in a router table based upon Norm's New Yankee Workshop arrangement. This article explains the lift design which I lightly modified:

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-8912-shop-made-router-lift

Parts cost about $100 (for the lift). There are two 1 inch machined bars that it slides on so it is pretty solid. The weak link is the clamp for the router motor. I have an old Ryobi R-500 (13.3A) motor in mine and it will shift a bit under heavy load. I need to address that but most of the time I do not put that much load on it. With a round motor, I do not think you would have the issue. Bit changes are facilitated by the ability to raise the top. Much quicker than cranking the motor up. If I want to raise or lower it quickly I can just put a driver bit in a drill and in seconds go up or down several inches. One turn is 1/16 inch. I modified the design a bit to have the suction occur inside the router table from the area above the router motor up around the chuck. This lets the DC or shop vac assist rather than fight the fan on the motor. Plus it is where the debris is generated. The lift movement screw is at the back of the table, away from the bit area.

I think it is better than a commercial built router table. It has great storage for bits, easy bit changes, easy height adjustment, good debris removal setup etc.. The fence is a combination of several ideas with a variable opening for the bit, dust suction (for when you are molding an edge and it lock in place with mini bar clamps. Very solid.
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
+1 for the PC 7518, its the industrial standard for router motors (used on many CNC routers), has plenty of power to do whatever bit you may want to mount in it and you will never wear it out.
 

quid_non

Wayne
Senior User
You're going to want a router to dedicate to the router table so you might as well plan to buy one for that purpose. Yes you could swap the router in and out of the table but you'd get tired of that quickly. I like getting a router lift that works well and is easy to adjust and then just buying a router engine without the fixed or plunge base to put in it.

I've gone through a couple of router lifts and the one I like above all others is the Jessem U-Turn lift sold by MLCS Woodworking. As to router engines the Porter Cable 7518 without a base is perfect for the task. I have a Woodpecker fence that I'm also very happy with. My table was made using plans from New Yankee Workshop.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/u-turn-lift.html

The router MLCS shows here also seems to be a good deal. 3.5HP, Variable Speed for 219.


Thanks Ken - - would you mind posing a few pics of your homemade table? Are the plans available?
Thanks!
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
Thanks Ken - - would you mind posing a few pics of your homemade table? Are the plans available?
Thanks!

The plans are straight from the New Yankee Workshop. A measured plan and a video describing the process - the video is a replay of the episode where they made the table - are available from their website. I followed the plan for the base pretty much verbatim but decided to purchase a top and plate/lift rather than build one.

I couldn't find any pictures of it in my gallery. I'll try to take a few of it this afternoon. It was one of the first shop projects I made. Learned a lot about making cabinets from the project. Not a difficult project - made of mostly 3/4" Hardwood Plywood - Oak in my case.
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
OK, this is what the router table looks like. I purchased the top, lift and fence from Woodpecker, but have since replaced the lift with the Jessum.

DSC_0538_800x532_.jpg


I have a dedicated Porter Cable 7518 motor inside.

DSC_0539_800x532_.jpg


There is lots of room for router bits. Two drawers are drilled for 1/4" shaft bits and 4 are drilled for 1/4" shafts. The bottom bit drawers are taller for the larger bits.

DSC_0540_800x532_1.jpg


DSC_0541_800x532_1.jpg


There are also two small and one large drawers in the bottom to store the miscellaneous stuff.

DSC_0542_800x532_1.jpg


DSC_0543_800x532_1.jpg


The top left drawer had the wrenches and collets, etc in it and the right hand top drawer is fake - the electronics run through it.
 
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