Router for Slab Flattening Sled

[Echd]

No, I don't think so at all. But it all comes down to how hard you run it... but plenty of people use routers like that in sleds.

 

[ChemE75]

So, using a Milwaukee 2 1/4 HP router, a 1 1/2” flattening bit is not too much?

Depends on if you're asking a once in a while hobbyist user or a regular basis user. For a regular user, the 3.25 hp is the way to go, particularly if it part of your biz to deal with slabs. From distilling reviews and forum comments, a hobbyist can get by with 2.25 especially for the odd occasion and fine if you're able to take small bites and go as slow as needed to allow the router to run without undue load, watch it closely for overheating, and take breaks as necessary. It will be my method to use the makita 2.25 I just picked up today.

 

[Oka]

Often you can get a 3 hp router for 100 bucks, mostly because they are really only good to be in a fixed table or in a router sled.
Otherwise, they are too unwieldy for comfort. I have run 2- 3" bits and found the 2.25 or 2.5" bits seem the most manageable.
Regardless, I run them typically at the 2nd lowest setting and that seem to work for me.

 

[golfdad]

I would look at Ridgid or Triton

 

[ChemE75]

Often you can get a 3 hp router for 100 bucks, mostly because they are really only good to be in a fixed table or in a router sled.
Otherwise, they are too unwieldy for comfort. I have run 2- 3" bits and found the 2.25 or 2.5" bits seem the most manageable.
Regardless, I run them typically at the 2nd lowest setting and that seem to work for me.

I agree with everyone here that a 3.25 is the best option to spin a large dia bit that hogs off a lot of material and puts significant load on the bearings. I also agree with the others here, a lesser router can do the job if taking care. In my case I’ll go with the 2.25 hp, probably a 1.5” bit and start at lowest speed at a slim cut and tweak it from there.

I might have spent 100, use it and resell for whatever. But haven’t seen any that did not need repair for under 200 or more, were too far to drive, or when posted here I either see too late or they’re too far or are significantly higher cost top level brands.

In my case, I am in no hurry so could have waited. But a like new makita 2.25 hp for what I paid doesn’t come around too often. It got my attention since I can use it as my regular hand held. It’s actually less weight than my old P-C 1.5 hp which I can now dedicate to its table. The makita has soft start and VS that runs smooth and steady and a bonus - it’s much quieter than my old PC.

 

[sandfarm]

I just finished flatten a 48" round table top with a PC 690 using a 2" cutting bit. No problems cutting less than 1/8" deep and narrow pass cut.
The job went fairly fast. The trick is cutting narrow passes which makes the wood more flatter.

 

[ChemE75]

I just finished flatten a 48" round table top with a PC 690 using a 2" cutting bit. No problems cutting less than 1/8" deep and narrow pass cut.
The job went fairly fast. The trick is cutting narrow passes which makes the wood more flatter.

Curious why a 2" bit if taking narrow passes? Easier/better for overlapping any slight ridges between the passes? When I used a 3/4" bit with my old PC, I did find tiny ridges at times so did a lot of repeat overlapping which was tedious even on the narrow boards due to the small dia.

Can't recall for sure but thought 690 was 1.5 or 1.75 hp, if so then it is good to hear. Generally with rotating machines, torque is more telling than hp but darned if I've ever seen a router torque spec. Just based on feel, my old PC 537 at 1.5 hp feels far more "torquey" as the much newer makita 2.25hp, although the soft start on the newer router probably softens the torque feel.