Router dog hole boring - technique, other bit recs?

Scott H

Scott
User
Not to ignite another discussion on how to bore dog holes, but I am trying out this method on white pine scrap --


I already appear to have toasted a $20 MLCS 3/4" spiral upcut plunge bit that is made of HSS. One of the tips of the cutting wings is discolored and I am guessing has lost its temper. I am overall not impressed with the fit and finish of the bit -- that's what I get for buying the cheapest one I could find -- but I am sure my technique did not help. A couple things also went wrong like the mechanism that locks the motor in the plunge base needed to be adjusted because it didn't hold the router tightly enough (new router), so instead of plunging it just spun on wood for a while the motor got pushed up.

Does anyone have any pointers on how they would proceed with this method? I think I need a more solid idea of the RPM I should be running a 3/4" HSS bit for plunging. Should I do the equivalent of peck drilling to allow the bit to cool between plunges? I'm also thinking of making a jig to drill out ~1/2" from the center of the dog hole before routing to lighten the load on the router/bit.

I am probably going to see if the bit I have has any more life in it, but not holding out much hope. The upgrade from here seems to be this Amana bit, I am not sure I want to bite on the $99 bit the guy in the video uses.

My backup plan is to just use a 60* V bit in the router to create a precisely located divot for the lead screw of an auger, I have excellent 3/4" auger bits (Wood Owl) but the difference in earlywood/latewood of the actual benchtop's yellow pine likes to deflect the lead screw when it's starting more than I would like cosmetically.
 

Michael Mathews

Michael
Corporate Member
How deep does your dog hole need to go? I guess the better question might be, does the hole need to go all the way through your bench, and if so, how thick is your bench? Reason for the asking... This is a perfect job for the Shaper Origin! However, the depth is limited by how deep the router bit can reach out of the S.O. when fully plunged. I think I've gone about 1-3/4" so far. Or it could be a starter hole for your auger bit? Just thinking out loud...
 

creasman

Jim
Staff member
Corporate Member
Why not just use a 3/4" brad point bit? That's what I used to bore these holes in my workbench top. I used the drill press and supported the top on roller stands. However, you could also make yourself a guide block first, clamp this to the bench top and then bore with a hand drill. Just take it slow and clear the shavings frequently.
 

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
I just finished boring 50 holes in a carving bench top.

My Forster bit was dull so I used a spade but with spurs. Finished edge of hole with 3/32 roundover bit. I used a Wolfcraft drill guide. One or two minor grain grabs, but I’m very happy with result.

If I had 3/4” brad point that would have been better, except they can be grabby and tend to self feed.

I can’t imagine doing it with a router, but I suppose is possible with some way to secure base.

Im still looking for a good drill guide. The Wolfcraft is OK but doesn’t have a 90° index set.
 

cyclopentadiene

Update your profile with your name
User
Agree withdrill press and Fostner bit. I purchased a new one $15 at Klingspor just for that purpose and it worked perfectly. My bench is 4” thick Ash and I went through. The reason to drill through is for hold downs as the stem is long.
 

mdbuntyn

Matt
Staff member
Corporate Member
I have excellent 3/4" auger bits (Wood Owl) but the difference in earlywood/latewood of the actual benchtop's yellow pine likes to deflect the lead screw when it's starting more than I would like cosmetically.
I used a Wood Owl Ultra smooth with a simple jig "designed" by Chris Schwarz to drill my holdfast holes. My benchtop is face laminated SYP 2x12s and I didn't get much chip out. You could do a two-step operation where you start with a forstner bit for 1/4" or so, and finish with the Wood Owl
 

Yelverton

Mitch
Corporate Member
I used a Wood Owl Ultra smooth with a simple jig "designed" by Chris Schwarz to drill my holdfast holes. My benchtop is face laminated SYP 2x12s and I didn't get much chip out. You could do a two-step operation where you start with a forstner bit for 1/4" or so, and finish with the Wood Owl
I did a combination of these - 3/4" upcut plunged to max depth then finished the holes with the Wood Owl bit.
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
Just out of curiosity... Is there a reason you want/need to do this with the router?

I would think there are other ways to do it without dealing with all that hassle.
 

Scott H

Scott
User
Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I started writing a big list of the reasons I was gonna try this method versus other methods and I decided the internet probably isn't going to benefit from my rant about this. If anyone really needs to know I can write it out.

Instead I decided to just go for it, bit is still working OK all things considered, going to do basically the same method @Yelverton used (start with router and finish with Wood Owl auger.) I am very happy with how the positioning is going. I have the router at about 1/2 its max speed and am kind of pecking out the holes. Once I get all the holes done I will auger them out with a backer board.

(Yes this is a very small bench, it's for upstairs in the AC. Unfortunately I made the right side overhang too short so the vise screw is not inline with the dog holes, I am going to have to use an anti-racking spacer constantly instead.)

Edit: Got the last hole in that row started.
 

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smallboat

smallboat
Corporate Member
Like Michael Matthews I’ve used Shaper Origin to bore dog holes in my bench top and vise chop. The spiral boring makes it quick, painless and precise. If I had to go deeper I would follow with a Forster bit. Should stay square and make a round hole. No pun intended.

For those not familiar, the “spiral boring” moves the cutter around in a circle to create the OD of the hole while the depth is progressively stepped down. The operator simply sets the diameter desired, centers the origin on the hole location, and pushes the “go” button.

Not worth acquiring an Origin, but if you can borrow one or convince someone to “demonstrate” for you…
 

Martin Roper

Martin
Senior User
I was lucky enough to have access to a Parf Guide to drill mine (thanks Brandon). It enabled me to bore over 100 20mm holes in a 96mm MFT format with amazing accuracy.

1641611877028.png
 

bainin

New User
bainin
I did pilot, holes with a portable drill guide (Rockler) to set the spacing and provide a target for a Forstner bit. Chamfered the hole edges with 45degree router bit. Hardened the openings with Marine Epoxy as I was working in 3/4 Ply.

I built a dust collection chamber underneath out of 1/4 ply sealed with glue/silicone caulking.

b
 

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Scott H

Scott
User
Well I got the two remaining holes that I have planned out done. I'm gonna figure out a way to bring the center dog in the end vise up so I can get a triangular clamping between 3 dogs.

Probably going to do a couple more for holdfasts, but they won't need to be aligned in any kind of grid. Still have to decide where I want them. I don't want to go the full swiss cheese route.

This project has been sitting unfinished for a long time in the garage, glad to have this part over with.
 

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