Not to ignite another discussion on how to bore dog holes, but I am trying out this method on white pine scrap --
I already appear to have toasted a $20 MLCS 3/4" spiral upcut plunge bit that is made of HSS. One of the tips of the cutting wings is discolored and I am guessing has lost its temper. I am overall not impressed with the fit and finish of the bit -- that's what I get for buying the cheapest one I could find -- but I am sure my technique did not help. A couple things also went wrong like the mechanism that locks the motor in the plunge base needed to be adjusted because it didn't hold the router tightly enough (new router), so instead of plunging it just spun on wood for a while the motor got pushed up.
Does anyone have any pointers on how they would proceed with this method? I think I need a more solid idea of the RPM I should be running a 3/4" HSS bit for plunging. Should I do the equivalent of peck drilling to allow the bit to cool between plunges? I'm also thinking of making a jig to drill out ~1/2" from the center of the dog hole before routing to lighten the load on the router/bit.
I am probably going to see if the bit I have has any more life in it, but not holding out much hope. The upgrade from here seems to be this Amana bit, I am not sure I want to bite on the $99 bit the guy in the video uses.
My backup plan is to just use a 60* V bit in the router to create a precisely located divot for the lead screw of an auger, I have excellent 3/4" auger bits (Wood Owl) but the difference in earlywood/latewood of the actual benchtop's yellow pine likes to deflect the lead screw when it's starting more than I would like cosmetically.
I already appear to have toasted a $20 MLCS 3/4" spiral upcut plunge bit that is made of HSS. One of the tips of the cutting wings is discolored and I am guessing has lost its temper. I am overall not impressed with the fit and finish of the bit -- that's what I get for buying the cheapest one I could find -- but I am sure my technique did not help. A couple things also went wrong like the mechanism that locks the motor in the plunge base needed to be adjusted because it didn't hold the router tightly enough (new router), so instead of plunging it just spun on wood for a while the motor got pushed up.
Does anyone have any pointers on how they would proceed with this method? I think I need a more solid idea of the RPM I should be running a 3/4" HSS bit for plunging. Should I do the equivalent of peck drilling to allow the bit to cool between plunges? I'm also thinking of making a jig to drill out ~1/2" from the center of the dog hole before routing to lighten the load on the router/bit.
I am probably going to see if the bit I have has any more life in it, but not holding out much hope. The upgrade from here seems to be this Amana bit, I am not sure I want to bite on the $99 bit the guy in the video uses.
My backup plan is to just use a 60* V bit in the router to create a precisely located divot for the lead screw of an auger, I have excellent 3/4" auger bits (Wood Owl) but the difference in earlywood/latewood of the actual benchtop's yellow pine likes to deflect the lead screw when it's starting more than I would like cosmetically.