Router bits

[Mike Davis]

I think it’s time to invest in some new router bits.

What profiles do you use most often and which ones do you find most useful?

 

[Bill Clemmons]

I think the most used profiles depends on the type of work you like to do. Most of my projects are in the Shaker or Arts & Crafts style, which means pretty simple profiles. My most common bits are roundovers (1/4 and 3/8" r) and a 45* bevel. Occasionally I'll use a straight (1/4 and 3/8" spiral upcut) bit to cut a groove on the router table, especially if it is a stopped groove.

I have several drawers full of bits in all types of profiles, but those are the ones I use most often.

 

[cyclopentadiene]

I lucked into an estate sale where I purchased a router table and over 150 high quality bits. I then sold the router table and router for what I paid for the entire grouping.

A lot depends on what you typically build.

I most often use roundover( multiple sizes), carbide upspiral and downspiral bits, rabbeting (Maloof) flush trim for following patterns various lengths. I also use chamfer bits at both 30 and 45 degrees often. I do not build a lot of doors but a rail and stile bit set is also handy. In making Maloof chairs, I use the specialty Maloof Bits from Woodline and I also use a cove bit for Maloof tables but these are specialty applications. An inlay kit is also useful.

I rarely use edge profile style bits like Ogee, etc. I purchased all of the $5 bits at Woodcraft a few years ago and most still have the wax coating.

I prefer 1/2 inch collet bits if possible.
My Favorite brands in order of preference.
CMT (awesome roundover bits)
Whiteside (great spiral flush trim bits and inlay kit)
Bosch (Good chamfer bits)
Freud (excellent profile bits)
Onsrud (High quality carbide upspiral and downspiral bits)
Woodline (Only supplier offering Maloof bits, mid priced)
Klingspor (mid priced, but excellent)
Woodcraft (mid priced,, I have only used a couple of the ones I own but they seem to work fine)

I have never tried Amana or Infinity but the reviews are great.

Rockler, MLCS and Eagle America are less expensive but do not seem to cut as cleanly as the others above.

I have had bad experience with unbranded or generic lower priced router bits as they do not retain the edge leaving a lot of tear out and tend to burn the wood

 

[bob vaughan]

For me, the profile that gets the most mileage is the 1/16" radius round over. It puts a nice eased edged on lots of things that needs to be semi-square but will be handled. Like others, the other size round over bits get used a lot also and would come in second.
I do a bit of laminate work, so the flush trim and bevel get a bit of use.
A good range of rabbeting bits for some things.
Naturally, a range of straight bits for various joinery is necessary.
There are all kinds of special purpose bits out there that will be needed for some things like finger joint bits, Profile following bits, and of course, dovetail bits.

Below is about the only router table I have. It was something I threw together out of shop scraps and trash for a special one time use, or so I thought. I've used it several times since and really like the convenience. It has a 1/16" round over bit in it and I use it for small parts that would be awkward to hold for a hand held router. I also have that same bit on a regular trim router (PC310).

 

[McRabbet]

Mike,

I have been happy with these boxed sets of roundover and cove bits from MLCS for just $29.95 per set. I also have their Cabinet Makers set which has held up well (a Shaker set is also available) and several of their straight solid carbide bits.

 

[Charlie Buchanan]

I have found recently a 5-piece bearing set for Klingspor/Whiteside bits that lets me change the depth of cut or eliminate fillets on roundover and ogee bits to get different profiles. You get 5 different sized bearings and an allen wrench to change them for $15. I thought it was a bargain.

I keep a 1/2 " x 1/4" (depth of cut) pattern bit ( Template Bit ) in my small router to level and clean up the shoulder on dovetail pin boards. I set it to the scribed line depth and the bearing follows the cheeks of the pins to equalize and clean up the pin board shoulders. works great for me--probable my most useful little bit.