Replacing deck boards

[CrealBilly]

re: pricing and using 2 bys vs. 5/4... Grading is everything. I'm rebuilding my deck as well. You might find this useful.

Home Depot's Online prices for PT wood 6" decking.

I hunted through all 100 items in their decking pages and pulled out the 6" wide PT decking lumber.

They really mixed up the naming of the different products... many are the same products under multiple descriptions. All cells with the same color are the same sku, but sold under a slightly different name. (Use the SKUs in-store, so you can compare to what they actually stock locally.)

Note in particular the "5/4 PT Lumber" vs. the "5/4 Premium" (same products).

And note the the 2-by "Premium" are less expensive than the "5/4 Premium", but more than the 5/4 Standard.

5/4 x 6 (1" x 5 1/2" actual) is bull nosed for water run off and appearance. 2 x 6 (1 1/2 x 5 1/2" actual) is not bull nosed, it's just slightly rounded over on the edges. the round overs on 2 x 6's are not very consistent because 2 x 6's are meant for framing.

 

[sushinutnc]

2 x 6 (1 1/2 x 5 1/2" actual) is not bull nosed, it's just slightly rounded over on the edges. the round overs on 2 x 6's are not very consistent because 2 x 6's are meant for framing.

Well, unfortunately, it's not as clear as that on HD's website (although I agree with you). Take a look:

They sell two products with the same SKU and CLEARLY show one version as normal framing PT lumber and then show New South DECKING with a bull nose... but only on one edge. LOL Obviously, HD's not really sure what they're selling.... of course, I'm sure it's just regular PT 2x6.

 

[Gofor]

As for the screws, I prefer the Phillips II Plus Exterior ones. They are coated for use with PT lumber, (come in green or tan). They can be driven in with either a #3 phillips or a square drive. I definitely prefer the square drive. They are also pretty tough. don't break off, and don't require pre-drilling. The ones I used on my deck 4 years ago are still doing well no corrosion and I can still remove them.

Make sure you get the Philips II PLUS (the Phillips II only takes cross point bits). I have found them at Lowe's, HD, and Builders Discount. Sometimes Lowes doesn't have the square drive ones. As a second choice to square drive I would use torx drive, but sometimes the coating on them is so thick you can't get the bit into the star hole.

I have had best luck with Bark side Down, and putting in 2 screws, each in from the edge about 3/4 - 1". The board will cup toward the bark side, so with it down, water doesn't sit in the cup. (You will get varying opinions on this, so just take this as mine). I have some splitting in all of mine (I put it on without paying attention to the heart/bark side, so it is mixed), but the bark side up ones have lifting end grain where flat-sawn, that I have had to sand down.

Go

 

[Gotcha6]

While doing a wine cellar for a customer @ work, I"m using all treated framing (it's in a below grade area). I tried the Stainless Steel #2 square drive screws. Don't bother. If you use impact drivers like I do, the screws are too soft and will strip out the square drive so bad you can't finish driving them or remove them - and they cost considerably more. They are probably made for counter-bore and countersink applications. Better to use the deck screws as mentioned above.