I am building a basement shop and studying the methods to use to reduce sound transmission upstairs, but also just reduce it inside the shop. The one thing I have absolutely learned is that anything labeled "noise reduction" is very expensive. Walls and ceilings I will figure out. How about any ideas to reduce noise at the source: the equipment? Will putting rubber tiles on equipment bases reduce noise levels? What ideas have you used that worked?
Reducing the noise levels from woodworking Equipment
- Thread starter Mark Johnson
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For me planar was loudest so upgraded from a universal motor to an induction motor. Table saw could have been loud too but I bought a cabinet saw at the start which is an induction motor. now the loudest tool i have is a miter saw and i use a handsaw or cross cut on a tablesaw most of the time. If you can get a belt driven tool, they are usually very quiet. Now most of noise is generated as wood is introduced to the tool and it's not that loud at all. Lighter passes reduces the noise and not sure that kind of noise can be reduced by other means.
I forgot router is pretty loud too as i believe they are all universal motors but it's in an enclosed table which kinda helps reduce the noise but it isn't used as much like the main prep tools but switching to induction motor would be something like a shaper.
I forgot router is pretty loud too as i believe they are all universal motors but it's in an enclosed table which kinda helps reduce the noise but it isn't used as much like the main prep tools but switching to induction motor would be something like a shaper.
I have spiral cutter heads and use the quiet version of saw blades as well. Just trying to figure out the next step in noise reduction. I do not have a solution for any cutter head against the wood, but would like the rest of the machine noise (motors, belts, etc.) to be as low as practical so some kind of sound absorption at the machine itself rather than just the walls of the basement.
The living area is just above your shop and you want to minimize the noise above the shop for the wife and children or is it mainly noise reduction for you in the shop?
There's a practical limit to how low you can go in any shop. Here are a few examples but I think many power tools are probably around the 100-110 decibel level whereas human conversation is about 70 decibels.
http://www.hearnet.com/at_risk/risk_trivia.shtml
https://wwwn.cdc.gov/niosh-sound-vibration/Results.aspx?tt=2
There's a practical limit to how low you can go in any shop. Here are a few examples but I think many power tools are probably around the 100-110 decibel level whereas human conversation is about 70 decibels.
http://www.hearnet.com/at_risk/risk_trivia.shtml
https://wwwn.cdc.gov/niosh-sound-vibration/Results.aspx?tt=2
The are numerous methods and each helps - you will most likely need to use several
- Move what you can to the outside, ie., dust collection and air compressor
- add vibration isolation pads under the feet of stationary machines - not just rubber, get the real pads
- If possible, install special sound reduction drywall to the ceiling
or
- install grid system and acoustical ceiling tiles with a 3" of sound absorption material above it. Note: We used to install common R11 insulation above conference room ceilings to reduce sound transmission but we are using a much better product now - the name escapes me now, I can get the details if you want
- Below the ceiling add sound absorption panels to at least two walls, this works very well but can be pricey as the material will run $5 to $10 per sq feet.
- do not bother with sound deadening paint, it only works for voice
hope this helps
- Move what you can to the outside, ie., dust collection and air compressor
- add vibration isolation pads under the feet of stationary machines - not just rubber, get the real pads
- If possible, install special sound reduction drywall to the ceiling
or
- install grid system and acoustical ceiling tiles with a 3" of sound absorption material above it. Note: We used to install common R11 insulation above conference room ceilings to reduce sound transmission but we are using a much better product now - the name escapes me now, I can get the details if you want
- Below the ceiling add sound absorption panels to at least two walls, this works very well but can be pricey as the material will run $5 to $10 per sq feet.
- do not bother with sound deadening paint, it only works for voice
hope this helps
Phil,
I would be interested in the name of the insulation you are using. Do you think that a heavy vinyl backed carpet tile would work on the walls? Obviously it would be a dust collection nightmare, but used tiles are lots cheaper than $5 per sq ft.
I would be interested in the name of the insulation you are using. Do you think that a heavy vinyl backed carpet tile would work on the walls? Obviously it would be a dust collection nightmare, but used tiles are lots cheaper than $5 per sq ft.
I went through this when I built out my basement shop years ago. It was right below the kitchen and our children were young at the time and napped.
For the ceiling, I used rubber isolation mounts on the joists, followed by hat channel and 5/8" sheetrock. I used green glue noiseproofing caulk between that and another layer of 5/8" sheetrock. For the walls, I did the double sheetrock and green glue caulk, but left out the hat channel and isolation mounts due to cost.
Works very well, with the planer running, you cannot hear it in the kitchen.
Let me know if you want more information.
For the ceiling, I used rubber isolation mounts on the joists, followed by hat channel and 5/8" sheetrock. I used green glue noiseproofing caulk between that and another layer of 5/8" sheetrock. For the walls, I did the double sheetrock and green glue caulk, but left out the hat channel and isolation mounts due to cost.
Works very well, with the planer running, you cannot hear it in the kitchen.
Let me know if you want more information.
That is quite impressive. What is hat channel? And what did you use as the rubber isolation?
Thanks,
<ark
Thanks,
<ark
If you can organize your shop into sections with noise making machines in one area under the kitchen or bathroom you can focus your efforts there. Fiberglass batts in the basement ceiling and 5/8" drywall mounted to metal channel suspended from the floor joists above this area is probably the best bang for the buck/effort. My dust collector is the thing that transmits the most noise into the house from my attached garage. Not sure what your plans are for this but uncoupling it from the wall with some kind of vibration absorbing pads and partitioning it off from the rest of the shop with a staggered 2x4 studs on 2x6 top ans bottom plates w/fiberglass batts and double 1/2" drywall on each side would certainly help and make it nicer in the shop to boot.
Mark, check out sound isolation company. They sell all supplies and have good information regarding soundproofing.
The standard noise reduction product is Sonex acoustic foam. It is very expensive. Back a few years ago when every upstart musician wanted their studio and had to keep it cheap. The go to product was the pulp dividers in the large egg boxes (restaurant style). They worked well, but they do burn. This could present a fire hazard.
Pop
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While I don't have a basement shop, I made a commitment not to use louder machinery after 9:00 PM. Out of consideration for my neighbors. If I do use machinery after then, it is usually a quieter machine like a bandsaw or drill press.
You might find some info on basement shops from the Fine Woodworking magazine site. In one of their annual Shops issues, they had some tips on woodworking in basement shops.
You might find some info on basement shops from the Fine Woodworking magazine site. In one of their annual Shops issues, they had some tips on woodworking in basement shops.
Mark, I just ran across some surplus sound absorption panel on a job I am doing. These are 3/4 thick fabric wrapped panels - I have six that are 34 x 96 and four that are 48 x 96. Many have an outlet cutout and the fabric either needs a good cleaning or a coat of paint. The best part is they are free, if you want them see if you can arrange a Pony Express from Raleigh
Phil,
I am going to pass right now, but thanks. When I get the sheet rock hung, I am just going to go step by step with a meter and see what works. I don't want to collect dust either and the fabric wraps certainly will do that. My plan is heavy insulation, hat channel, sheet rock and then see how loud it is up stairs. if it is too loud, I will look for used dropped ceiling and install that with another layer of dense insulation above the drop. Then I am going to try isolating noise at each machine as much as possible. Vibration pads on all feet; separate enclosure around the dust collector because I cannot move it outside with foam glued to MDF panels to dampen as much noise as possible. Probably a confinement base around the router table or at least 3 sides of it. That still lets lots of noise out but I can nearly eliminate the bounce noise. In any case, I am going to buy a meter and simply test each idea as I go along. I have already purchased machines that are on the quiet side of equipment (spiral cutter heads, etc). I appreciate all the input from everyone.
I am going to pass right now, but thanks. When I get the sheet rock hung, I am just going to go step by step with a meter and see what works. I don't want to collect dust either and the fabric wraps certainly will do that. My plan is heavy insulation, hat channel, sheet rock and then see how loud it is up stairs. if it is too loud, I will look for used dropped ceiling and install that with another layer of dense insulation above the drop. Then I am going to try isolating noise at each machine as much as possible. Vibration pads on all feet; separate enclosure around the dust collector because I cannot move it outside with foam glued to MDF panels to dampen as much noise as possible. Probably a confinement base around the router table or at least 3 sides of it. That still lets lots of noise out but I can nearly eliminate the bounce noise. In any case, I am going to buy a meter and simply test each idea as I go along. I have already purchased machines that are on the quiet side of equipment (spiral cutter heads, etc). I appreciate all the input from everyone.
I agree with Mike's idea.
While I don't have a basement shop, I made a commitment not to use louder machinery after 9:00 PM. Out of consideration for my neighbors. If I do use machinery after then, it is usually a quieter machine like a bandsaw or drill press.
This is just plain courtesy. I have a basement shop with a garage door facing the street. In the spring and summer I open it. Between my machinery and music it's one heck of a noise. To keep my neighbors from burning me at the stake I follow his idea. The exception is on Sunday I never start up the shop before 12:00 noon.
Pop
While I don't have a basement shop, I made a commitment not to use louder machinery after 9:00 PM. Out of consideration for my neighbors. If I do use machinery after then, it is usually a quieter machine like a bandsaw or drill press.
This is just plain courtesy. I have a basement shop with a garage door facing the street. In the spring and summer I open it. Between my machinery and music it's one heck of a noise. To keep my neighbors from burning me at the stake I follow his idea. The exception is on Sunday I never start up the shop before 12:00 noon.
Pop
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