Red Oak Finish Suggestions

[Travis]

I am looking for suggestions on how to finish red oak for an indoor project. Any one who has experience and would like to share it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[Joe Scharle]

My standby is BLO followed by a few coats of shellac or wipe-on, depending upon protection requirements.

 

[Bas]

Table? Bathroom cabinet? Display case?

 

[Travis]

It is a bookcase/display case that is 38" high by 8' and will be used as a room divider so front and back are finished. Backing is made with tongue and grove.

 

[Travis]

What is "BLO"?

 

[Canuck]

What is "BLO"?

Travis.


I believe that Joe is referring to boiled linseed oil.

I have worked a lot of projects using RO as well. All of my "clients" (family members:wsmile requested a really light finish. I have used light coats of Minwax Pecan stain, followed by a coat or two of shellac; then wiping varnish. Pretty simple, but lets the grain pop as well as adding a little protection.

Wayne

 

[Fred85]

I've used General Finishes Java gel stain to achieve a very dark brown stain on a red oak picture frame. If you're looking for a dark finish i'd recommend it, but be advised that it dries quickly.

 

[Bas]

It is a bookcase/display case that is 38" high by 8' and will be used as a room divider so front and back are finished. Backing is made with tongue and grove.

Lots of options for this type of project. For an "in-the-wood" finish, you can make your own wiping varnish. Mix boiled linseed oil, varnish (e.q. oil-based poly) and mineral spirits in equal parts and wipe it on with a rag. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes and wipe off the excess with a clean rag. Three coats will do it. Note that this will not give you any kind of film, nor will it give you a glossy sheen.

I did a cabinet (made out of white oak) that needed a little more protection. I first applied a coat of boiled linseed oil (wipe on - let sit 15 minutes, wipe off), then a coat of dewaxed shellac, then finally two coats of Minwax polycrylic ("water based poly"). It has held up well. I sprayed both the shellac and polycrylic, but a good brush will work just fine.

Always test your finish on a piece of scrap. Sand it to the same level as your actual project, then apply the finish. This is especially important if you're going to stain a piece, it's hard to uncolor wood.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

Lots of options for this type of project. For an "in-the-wood" finish, you can make your own wiping varnish. Mix boiled linseed oil, varnish (e.q. oil-based poly) and mineral spirits in equal parts and wipe it on with a rag. Let it sit for 15-20 minutes and wipe off the excess with a clean rag. Three coats will do it. Note that this will not give you any kind of film, nor will it give you a glossy sheen.

This is what I use on Red Oak. It takes the reddish/pinkish tint out of the oak and gives it kind of a honey tone.

Bill

 

[CDPeters]

All very good finish schedules. For red oak, especially that is showing alot of ray fleck, I like BLO - 1 or 2 coats - to make the grain "pop", then 3 to five coats of unwaxed blonde shellac, sand 320 in between. For a little "deeper" appearance, you could add a top coat or two of poly.

I think Bas mentioned test. I agree, take the time to test to get just the look you're looking for.

C.

 

[Travis]

Thanks to all. I have several samples going. I will let you know which way I go and provide pics.

 

[Jeff]

Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish is a very good, user friendly, product. It can be applied with a cloth, brush, or sprayed without dilution. It's made from tung oil. No need to wipe off the excess after coating which makes it different than many other oil based finishes. You don't need to sand between coats either. A light sanding with 220 grit before the final coat is beneficial.


http://www.waterlox.com/

Good luck and post some pics. :icon_cheers

 

[Skymaster]

MinWax Golden Oak, Oil based Poly topcoat my all time mostest goodest for Red Oak :gar-La;:gar-La;