Reading all available info on miter saws

[Graywolf]

Richard, the 8 1/2 Makita has a light, but it is not a blade shadow indicator? So still rely on just using a tooth on the line? Nice thing on my Ridgid is the shadow line is good enough for "flip" cuts. Just using a tooth seems a bit iffy on bevel cuts. A limitation, or a skill problem? Table depth looks really short. Just solve that with outboard supports? My saw sits on a countertop and I have some 4 x 4 blocks for outfeed support. Works fine. I don't have any fancy rail system as I do not have the space.

Are you answering your own questions? It almost seems you are talking to yourself. I do like the light on the Dewalt 780, simply because as I get older working in questionable lighting helps with speed and accuracy. Using a tooth or line of sight is how it has been accomplished from the beginning of the power miter saw. So it's a matter of what you get used to through trial and error. Yes, it's a developed skill. For the rest of it that's a matter of what you want or have the capacity for. Speaking of capacity, 81/4”, 10”, or 12” blade. Think about what you're going to be working on. I happen to cut large molding, crown moldings and such that can not be laid down to get an accurate bed. So I use a 12”saw. If I could get by with a smaller set up I would. Something to think about.

 

[tvrgeek]

There are so many small details in these tools. Trying to think about all angles. ( pardon the pun) I just got an Infinity catalog and they have what seems to be the heaviest (non-deflecting) 10 inch blade, a full 1/8 inch with low hook angle. It might work to solve the curved cut problem I had trying to cut flat on the bed.

Not quite sure I get your comment. Are you suggesting that the small saw, with large crown, doing a compound cut flat does not give the accuracy, so you use the bigger 12 and cut only miter? Or is it as composite moldings, they can't lay flat? Support blocks etc.

I like to work alone, that way on one interrupts me with idle conversation other than myself.

 

[cpw]

I have had the 12" Bosch axial glide for around 10 years and am still very pleased. It is possible to deflect the arm and cause inaccurate cuts, but if you have it set properly, and if you use a gentle hand and let the "tool do the work," it is very accurate.

 

[cyclopentadiene]

My first approach was to replace the standard blade that came with the saw. The Forest blade was almost the cost of the saw but makes a huge difference to any saw.

 

[Graywolf]

There are so many small details in these tools. Trying to think about all angles. ( pardon the pun) I just got an Infinity catalog and they have what seems to be the heaviest (non-deflecting) 10 inch blade, a full 1/8 inch with low hook angle. It might work to solve the curved cut problem I had trying to cut flat on the bed.

Not quite sure I get your comment. Are you suggesting that the small saw, with large crown, doing a compound cut flat does not give the accuracy, so you use the bigger 12 and cut only miter? Or is it as composite moldings, they can't lay flat? Support blocks etc.

I like to work alone, that way on one interrupts me with idle conversation other than myself.

No, the moldings I'm cutting are designed to mount on top of the cabinets. The addition of the ledger to the molding prevents it from laying flat. Some of these moldings are 4 and 5 inches tall. Some are 3x6 L-shaped moldings, cutting these flat or standing takes a 12-inch blade. Oh and for the record, I'm a one-man band on the job. All my projects are completed start to finish by me alone. I get caught talking to myself as well.

 

[Joe Scharle]

My 2002 12" Rigid came with a non straight fence too! Had to cut it and align.
Last year I had to re-trim my house due to Hurricane Florence. My part-time helper is left-handed and couldn't use the Rigid D handle very well, so I went to Lowe's and picked up showroom Hitachi that was deeply discounted. Tuned it and mounted it on my Rigid table. Very happy with the saw.

 

[Henry W]

..... It is enough I want to scrape the ugly popcorn ceilings. Naturally, the one room I did the finish work was very poor.

Ummm is drywall ever 'properly' finished under popcorn ceilings?
Not the few I have seen.

 

[tvrgeek]

Of course, that is why they did it.