Re-thought TS sled

[tvrgeek]

After a few projects, I thought a re-think was in order.

With two runners, why do I have a far side fence? Just extra weight. The near fence, blade exit box and the aluminum top rail provide more than enough support.
Would like a stop for long boards
Would like a little support if those long boards were really floppy.

So, here is my current adaptation. I actually have a K-M stop block on order which I can move between the sled and my miter square.

 

[waitup]

I've been planning to build one and thinking about details. I like this basic design. I guess it doesn't twist too much when you move it sense you said it was more than enough support?

 

[tvrgeek]

Solid as can be. Fence is two layers of 3/4 BP with the additional guard box, so very strong. One layer would have been fine as the blade guard box provides more than enough support.

If I was building another, I would use 1/2 inch BP for the base, not 3/4. I guess I am in the tuning stage of the "obviously big enough, then cut it down till it breaks" engineering stage.

Next mod is a bit of plexi with a 2 1/2 hose fitting that can hang off the T-track to improve dust collection. That is why I put the hold-down T-tack in as with a top shield, no room to use my "Million Dollar Stick" for small parts. Great tool by the way.

 

[junquecol]

That is why I put the hold-down T-tack in as with a top shield, no room to use my "Million Dollar Stick" for small parts. Great tool by the way.

Look at the small toggle clamp that a Dubby uses. Amazing how much such a small clamp can hold. You already have a "T" track for sliding block to support toggle clamp. I don't have a cross cut sled. Instead, I have a panel cutter (New Yankee Workshop style) and a Dubby. Dubby fits into left miter slot, and panel cutter fits into right miter slot. Took a piece of 1/2" melamine, added a runner to it for drop off table. Ran it thru saw one way, then reversed it and ran it again, creating a "zero clearance for either type of sled. On both panel cutter, and Dubby, fence extends past the blade. This helps to push cut offs past the blade.

 

[bainin]

Mine is 1/2 BB ply base - as any of these sled style jigs start to eat away at your usable saw depth.

I used 2 miter bars for guides to eliminate any possible rotation on the table.

As I was unsure of the flex of the 1/2 BB , so i braced it front and back with 3/4 Ply supports.

Its light, rigid and one of my favorite jigs I've made.

It may even be possible to go to 1/4 BB as a base as it has alot of base support from the table , but Im not gonna quibble over an extra 1/4 saw depth.

b

 

[tvrgeek]

My conclusion is the far fence is not necessary if you make the guard box deep and strong enough. Mine is deep enough to fully cover the blade when the sled is completely past the blade high point at the fence. Safe, strong and lighter. No far fence also allows the use of a triangle for angled cuts.