I am in the market for my first set of rail and stile/raised panel router bits. I see a lot of difference in price from $53 for an off brand (Yanico) to over $200 for the name brands (Freud, Whiteside etc.). I have read the review but I am always skeptical about who is writing those. Looking for some suggestions. I might make about 2-3 projects per year and when I do work on my projects I take my time. My big concern is quality and appearance. So the question is spend the big bucks, or save the money?
Rail and Stile Router bits
- Thread starter AlexSwansboro
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I've not been disappointed with MLCS (I have vertical as well as horizontal), but I like my Freud too. (just the one)
I wish I could address your question based on lots of experience, but I am just starting a project that requires raised panel doors, which will be my first attempt at this style of joinery. After looking around, I bought the Freud set (with the backer). In the past, I have used cheaper bits on other projects with mixed results. As a consequence, I have tended to buy name brands such as Whiteside or Freud. These brands are expensive, but they keep an edge and cut smoothly. Looking forward to what others, with more experience, have to say.
Given you're planning 2 or 3 projects per year I would +1 on what Joe suggests. I've had good success with MLCS bits over the years and if you want a little better quality go with their Katana bits. I don't know if it's just me but prices for router bits seem to going up pretty fast lately. Like others have said, Whiteside, Freud are good bits but cost more. I have also had good success with the Sommerfeld matched rail and style bits. Just finished a set of kitchen cabinets with them and they performed as advertised for me.
I bought some Klingspor brand router bits, I like them and they seem identical to whiteside. I was told they were contracted out to whiteside.
I usually buy MLCS because their prices are good, they have useful illustrations and how-tos, and they have free, fast, shipping.
Another question is what type. Cheapest is a set where you swap cutters around to switch from coping to sticking. I have managed to do good doors with mine but you can have to switch shims and mess around to get the fit right, Next up the price ladder is a bit where all you do is change elevation to switch from cope to stick. I cope on a sled which makes the vertical adjustment minimal. I don't think they will last as long because of the double use of the straight cutter but this style is probably my favorite. Also nice is the two bit sets. Normally you cut with the finish side down with these which is an advantage. They should also wear longer due to no double use.
So final recommendation is MLCS stacked or two bit set in the profile of your choice.
Another question is what type. Cheapest is a set where you swap cutters around to switch from coping to sticking. I have managed to do good doors with mine but you can have to switch shims and mess around to get the fit right, Next up the price ladder is a bit where all you do is change elevation to switch from cope to stick. I cope on a sled which makes the vertical adjustment minimal. I don't think they will last as long because of the double use of the straight cutter but this style is probably my favorite. Also nice is the two bit sets. Normally you cut with the finish side down with these which is an advantage. They should also wear longer due to no double use.
So final recommendation is MLCS stacked or two bit set in the profile of your choice.
I have a couple of used stile and rail sets and panel raising bits Ill never use again. I have Amana S&R cutters 1/2" shank and a couple panel raisers. PM if youre interested.
I agree with Jim D.
If you are only using one router table then it is well worth the extra $$ for the stacked to save on set up time. Trust me there will always be that one rail or stile that you will need to recut. Also if you have them sharpened then they are more likely to match up. We have several sets at work that have been sharpened at different times. It is very hard to keep them paired up.
If you are only using one router table then it is well worth the extra $$ for the stacked to save on set up time. Trust me there will always be that one rail or stile that you will need to recut. Also if you have them sharpened then they are more likely to match up. We have several sets at work that have been sharpened at different times. It is very hard to keep them paired up.
If you are building with cherry or wood that burns easily...go with quality for sure. Cheaper router bits are not worth the trouble or risk IMHO.
I've built several kitchens using Freud rail/stile set with very good results. Also using Whiteside on furniture profiles and really like them as well. Before Freud I used Grizzly bits with so/so results. But with rail & stile & raised panels you really need quality. Whiteside & Freud are the two quality manufacturers I have experience with.
I've built several kitchens using Freud rail/stile set with very good results. Also using Whiteside on furniture profiles and really like them as well. Before Freud I used Grizzly bits with so/so results. But with rail & stile & raised panels you really need quality. Whiteside & Freud are the two quality manufacturers I have experience with.
I've used my MLCS bits in maple, cherry, oak, and walnut as well as poplar and softwoods. Maple and cherry have more tendency to burn but that has to be addressed regardless of your choice of bits. A sharp bit, regardless of brand, should be fine. If it isn't sharp enough to cut without burning, set your fence to do 90% of the cut and then recut that last 10%. No burn.
To do quality work you need good tools but that isn't the same as more expensive tools.
To do quality work you need good tools but that isn't the same as more expensive tools.
I like Whiteside and Freud.
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