Question about Jet 1014

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cmccarter

New User
chester
Since I just picke this up last Saturday. I have noticed that the headstock gets very warm after running for a while. Is this normal for this lathe. I wouldn't call it hot just very warm.

chester
 

ashley_phil

Phil Ashley
Corporate Member
it shouldn't be getting warm at all.

my guess is the belt isn't aligned and the heat is from the friction of the belt.

or the bearings are out.

i'd check the belt and potentially replace it before doing anything else. most likely it's just the belt is on crooked and/or backwards.
 

cmccarter

New User
chester
Looks like you are right on the head.. I ran it for about 10 min under no load at a medium slow speed. Lokks like the inside bearing gets hot first. If I run with a pen mandrel the morse taper get almost too hot to touch. So I wonder if the bearings are field replaceable of if I have to send it in to jet for repair? I just bought this used this past weekend. I'm sure the seller had no idea the bearings were going out. It does make a squealing noise at times as well.


Just my luck,

chester :wsad:
 

Sal Buscemi

New User
Sal
I have no experience with that lathe, but I've changed bearings on a couple of lathes, and did not find it to be very hard. My main suggestion would be to photo or somehow document the order the parts come out, that way you wont be guessing when you put it back together. Bearing pullers are really cheap at Harbor Freight,and I usually heat the bearings on a light bulb to install the new ones.

I would also discourage you from buying the bearings from JET or one of the parts replacement places. I looked at an online manual and it showed a 1 6004, and 1 6005. they were like 25-35 bucks on the e-replacementparts site, and 5-7 on a bearing supply site and that was for sealed Japanese bearings. I wouldn't go by those sizes I listed because yours might be different, always go buy the numbers and measurements on the ones you have.
Sal
 
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cmccarter

New User
chester
Exactly! I went to a local bearing dealer, he looksd at them, went to the back room and was back in 2 minutes with the exact same bearings.. total cost 11.47 in hand. Took 5 min to install and we are back up and running. No heat so far but will wait and see when I start turning later tonight.. as soon as I get the extension and stand installed.
 

Sal Buscemi

New User
Sal
What place did you get them from? I usually buy stuff online, but it would be nice to get them locally if I need them in a pinch.

Sal
 

aplpickr

New User
Bill
Next time use a long HEAVY screw driver as a stethoscope. Push the metal end on the housing near the bearing. Push your ear flap closed with the handle end. Spin the shaft first by hand and then with power. Good bearings make a clean whirling noise. Bad bearings scrape, clunk, grind, pop, etc. BE SAFE, BE SURE YOU CAN DO THIS WITHOUT CONTACTING MOVING PARTS. There will be no doubt after you compare good and bad bearings. Always replace all bearings on a shaft. One very bad one causes damage in the other one.
 

cmccarter

New User
chester
I got the Bearings at:

Bearing Supply
108 White Oak Ln # F
Lexington, SC 29073
(803) 791-0371

As for the issue, I turned a pen and the heat is back. I know the belt is seated properly and now the bearings are good. It seem that the hottest part is the mandrel which is really weird. Tomorrow I am going to run the lather with just a chuck and see what happens , will also try a different mandrel. I am thinking simce the live center doesn't seem to be turning for some reason (gonna check this too) would it be possible that the friction of the mandrel on the live center could be generating the heat and transferring it to the MT2 part of the mandrel... I know I am reaching here. I'll definitely know more after my testing tomorrow.
 

ashley_phil

Phil Ashley
Corporate Member
the mandrel and wood your turning will get hot. are your tools getting hot? sometimes mine get so hot i cna't hold them to turn especially in the summer time.
 

jglord

New User
John
I've delt with similar problems several times on this lathe and the first thing to check is the belt tension. I've even had lathes returned, supposedly bound-up in all cases it was the belt tension. I've called Jet to get new bearings under warranty as was told to check the belts first.

The belt should have some give - i.e. you should be able to easily push the belt in 1/2" or so. This not only takes the tension off the bearings but may allow the belt to slip, should you get a bad catch.

The other thing to check is that the hand wheel is not too tight. There should be a small gap between the hand wheel and the bearing. There is a spring washer between the hand wheel and the bearing to hold the bearing in place.

If you try the screw driver/ stethoscope trick and you hear clicking, then the bearings are bad. The are fairly easy to replace on the Jet.

Hope this helps. :icon_thum
 
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