Q for Toolferone about Freud blade coatings

[zapdafish]

Was looking at the Freud rip blades and have two options, the red Perma-SHIELD® coating or Silver ICE™ coating. The Red is 15 bucks more, what's difference? Based on price I am guessing the Red is better but not sure how, if the width of the cutters is wider than the blade, how does the wood rub up against the coating.

http://www.hartvilletool.com/product/12765

Thnx...Steve


Bought some QS white oak from Scott yesterday. Today I was using my TS55 to get a good edge and the internal mechanism to prevent overheating kicked in twice so I had to buy a Rip blade and now it goes through it like butter. Well, same thing is happening to my Unisaw now. I have been using the woodworker II but almost exclusively on ply and mdf so I never really paid much attention to saw blade types. On the few occasions when I had to cut Ash and QS RO, it went through it with no problems. I cleaned the blade and it helped a little but I am pretty sure I need to get a decent rip blade for dimensioning.

 

[toolferone]

Well on the glue line rip blade the side clearance between the teeth and the body is very small and because of the normal movement of the human body feeding the wood there will be some rubbing on the blade. The red (Permasheild) is a very low friction surface. The Silver-Ice is not as slick but does a good job of reflecting heat away from the blade. With a power feeder the Silver Ice is a better choice since the feed rate will be faster and straighter. But really we are splitting hairs on the difference. The red is a more costly process.

Hope this helps.

P.S. the Glue line rip is a great blade, but is limited to 1" material thicknes. Just making sure you knew that. The LM72R010 Heavy Duty Rip is a great ripping blade for stock up to about 3 "

 

[toolferone]

Just read the second half of your post and wanted to pass along that Freud makes blades for the TS55. They are a little harder to find but are great blades.

 

[zapdafish]

thnx, so for hand feeding, guess I'll go for the Red one. The material is around 3/4" I think. I plan on cutting 45 deg bevels which I believe will make it the equivalent of 1 inch or so, don't wanna do the math, lol. Is a rip blade usable for that?

dang.hartville doesnt carry the LM72R010, I like their free shipping and woodnet discount

 

[toolferone]

I plan on cutting 45 deg bevels which I believe will make it the equivalent of 1 inch or so, don't wanna do the math, lol. Is a rip blade usable for that?

Good question, I have never given it any thought, but it should work just fine. A rip is a rip as long as it is along the grain of the wood.

 

[DWSmith]

"A rip is a rip as long as it is along the grain of the wood."

??? When is a rip not in the direction of the grain?

 

[toolferone]

"A rip is a rip as long as it is along the grain of the wood."

??? When is a rip not in the direction of the grain?

I was being a little silly, just making my point.

 

[zapdafish]

I knew what you meant, I was more concerned with the 1" limitation due to the bevel cut. I am going to go with the LM72R010 since I will be gluing up 2 3/4" boards and then ripping those to width.

 

[lspooz]

IMHO, the ICE coating is unreliable/worthless/expletive deleted - both times I've used Freud ICE blades the coating failed shortly after use. . While this was merely annoying (but still usable) on my miter saw, the 2 inch patch of coating that flaked off and wound up in my dust collector also set off the Sawstop mechanism. So, a good package deal on two blades wound up costing me an $80 cartridge.


On the other hand, I've been happy (and never had a problem) with the red coating in several blades/years.

BTW, (the 10" table saw blade failed within the first hour of use; still waiting to hear back from Freud about the pending warranteed replacement).

 

[FredP]

I don't know anything about the coatings but in my experience MDF will dull everything it touches. I keep a separate blade for MDF and it only gets used for that. I have found all sorts of nasty stuff in MDF including metal, sand, rocks ect...... Just my $.02.

 

[Don Alexander]

never ever use the same blade you cut mdf with for anything else , it will ruin a good blade faster than trying to cut bricks ............... well not really that bad but it isn't good

i keep a real cheap carbide blade around just for cutting mdf (its an Oldham which i was not at all happy with for ripping real wood) surprisingly enough it has cut a whole lot of mdf and still cuts it acceptably

+1 for the red coated Freud blades

 

[zapdafish]

guess my laziness to switch out blades is getting back at me. I went mdf crazy with shop cabs and some other shop projects, hehe.

I'll drop em off at Raleigh Saw tomorrow.

 

[Makinsawdust]

The one Ice blade I own continuously pills. It causes me no problems but it does flake off. I have many Perma's and they never pill. They both cut fine.

 

[Gofor]

I have good luck with both the red and the silver blades. IMHO, both my silver 50t combo thin kerf (TK906) and my red (LU84R016) do a better job than the Silver 30t glue-line rip (LM74M010) on my Ridgid 3650 saw. Thanks for the heads up on the "over 1" thickness". I did notice some degradation with white oak and walnut over that thickness with the 30t rip blade, and that may have been the problem. The 50t combos seem do as well regardless of the thickness.


To answer the question:

"A rip is a rip as long as it is along the grain of the wood."

??? When is a rip not in the direction of the grain?

Answer: When it is in the seat of your pants. (I suppose that could be interpreted a couple different ways :eusa_thin:wsmile

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