putting something see-through in metal trash can

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thsb

New User
Tim
I have had a number of times where i didn't realize my trash can from dust collection system was full, which then fills the plastic bag, which means much more of a hassle.

I wonder how people have managed this so that they know when to change out the can.

Ultimately i would like to upgrade my system with a better dust collector and bigger can, but need to go with what i have for the time being.

I have the [FONT=&quot]DELTA 50-760.[/FONT]

thanks, tim
 

DWSmith

New User
David
Fred installed a plexiglass insert in one of his barrels and I did the same for the Thein I have next to the jointer. I enjoy seeing the chips swirling about and it is easy to know when it needs emptying.
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
I use a fiber drum for my thein pre-cyclone and cut a square view port and put a piece of plexi over it. Used two thin aluminum strips on the inside and aluminum rivets to hold it on. A liberal application of silicone sealer keeps it airtight. There are likely pics of it in my gallery if you can dig through it to find them.

I too like to watch the chips swirl around in there. Still doesn't stop me from occasionally letting it overflow when using the planer. Fills it up fast.
 

McRabbet

Rob
Corporate Member
A bin sensor like the one I make could easily be used to alert you to a full bag (like the one that comes with the OP's Delta 50-760) or with a barrel equipped with a section of translucent PVC flexible duct hose at the top. PM me with your email address if you are interested in more details.
 

rcarmac

Board of Directors, Secretary
Robert
Staff member
Corporate Member
I have something pretty close to that and loved the clear bags. So I would empty and keep reusing them till they had so many holes at I couldn't. I'm too cheap to purchase the clear bags so I go with the black plastic bags. I have to go over every now and then and tap the bag to see what the level is, so I am no help at all.
 

cpowell

Chuck
Senior User
Nothing to add other than letting you know this "forgetting to check the trash can" thing doesn't get any better with age! :rotflm:
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
When I joined NCWW back in 2009 I started something of a trend (though I certainly do not claim the title of inventor) that has had a few revivals in the years since as new members encounter this age old problem in dust collecting -- especially once a thickness planer has been added to the tool mix!

I added both Lexan windows and reinforcement hoops to the waste bin (Rubbermaid Brute trashcan) I use with my dust collector. You will find the roughly 1/16" thick Lexan/Polycarbonate sheets much easier to work with and easier to shape to match the arch of your waste bin versus Acrylic/Plexiglass as Plexiglass is much stiffer and more prone to shattering whenever stressed (Lexan does not behave this way). This Lexan should be readily available from Lowes in 12"x12" squares -- you'll only need one such square and you can easily cut your Lexan to size on your tablesaw or bandsaw.

Some photos (there are past threads with detailed instructions that I've written up if you need them, just search the archives):

091130_DustBin_01.JPG

This photo shows the two pairs of windows. With two levels you can tell how close to full the waste bin is from a distance with some advance warning before you reach "Full". They also allow you to shine a flashlight into the waste bin to get a better handle on the level when the level is low or when working with very dark woods. The Lexan was cut on the tablesaw, then arched to match the curvature of waste bin using a blowtorch (or heat gun) as a heat source to soften the Lexan (wear leather gloves to handle the hot Lexan).

091130_DustBin_02.JPG

A detail of the exterior of one Lexan window. The windows are caulked with Silicone to prevent air leakage. The windows are riveted into place with 1/8" aluminum rivets and aluminum HVAC tape is used to seal off any possible air leaks in the rivets themselves. Also visible is the grounding strap used to dissipate static buildup within the plastic waste bin -- the strap is tied to the internal aluminum reinforcing hoop and the aluminum HVAC tape used to create a conductive path (overlapping sections of aluminum HVAC tape are electrically coupled by way of a rivet driven through them at intersecting points to bond them together and the grounding strap is secured to one of these rivets.


091130_DustBin_04.JPG

An internal view of one of the windows -- note the reinforcing washers installed on each rivet to ensure the rivets can not pull through the plastic over time. Also note the band of aluminum HVAC tape used to create one of the electrostatic dissipation strips.


091130_DustBin_03.JPG


A complete overview of the interior of the waste bin modifications. The lower aluminum band is 1/8"x3/4" aluminum bar extrusion formed into a hoop (that is then riveted together and also riveted at several points directly to the waste bin) to reinforce the waste bin and prevent collapsing under the strong vacuum created by the dust collector (some waste bins may need a second reinforcing hoop higher up as well). Note the aluminum HVAC tape used for both the uppermost electrostatic dissipation band and the vertical dissipation band which runs down each side and across the bottom of the waste bin (and is one continuous strip for electrical conductivity). All intersection points on the aluminum extrusion "hoop" and HVAC tape are riveted together (with the use of reinforcing washers) to create a completed electrical conduction path. One of the rivets (from the exterior) is run through a 1/8" ring crimp to connect the grounding strap to the internal electrostatic dissipation bands (do not underestimate how much static is generated by swirling dust!). The other end of the grounding strap is terminated with an alligator clip that can be easily disconnected whenever I need to empty the waste bin, then reconnected when I re-install the waste bin. The alligator clip is clipped to a bare metal point (another length of wire actually) on the grounded DC chassis.

I hope some of you find this added info helpful. There are many ways to tackle the problem but I have found that this simple solution has worked exceptionally well for me since my dust collector is located in the shop. For those with a dust collector stowed away in another room or outdoors will likely wish to pursue more advanced (i.e. electronic monitoring) solutions.
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
You can also make you own inexpensive *<$20) high dust alarm from a lamppost day-night sensor and a light bulb. You'll either need to find a sensor with no delay (most of them have a delay now) or mount the sensor low enough so the drum won't file during the approximately 2 min. delay. You mount the sensor on one side of the hose to the drum or in front of a window in the drum wall and put a small light on the other side. A small LED candelabra light works well. As soon as the dust blocks the light path (nighttime) the sensor allows 120 VAC to flow to a light or whatever alarm device you want. One option is to build and use this inexpensive unit until something new and exciting hits the market in the future (hint).

Here is a SketchUp drawing of a sample installation of the day/night sensor-based unit (the sensor is mounted in the back of a receptacle box):

High_Dust_Alarm-1.jpg


Here are some links to my old threads about it:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7195

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27761

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7240

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=19580

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13220
 
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