Proven finishes for QSWO

[DaveO]

Other than ammonia fuming, which I have no desire to try, I am looking for advice on finishing schedules that have been done on QSWO. I have made sample boards of several ideas that I had. Nice, but that really doesn't show what the whole piece will look like. I am torn between the safe and always successful oil finish with wipe on ploy or staining to bring out the ray fleck more, then topcoating. On my sample boards a Waterlox Original S/F and Watco Natural Danish Oil really added nothing to the wood. In my stain collection a Early American Minwax stain really showed off the ray fleck. Jeff Hewitt recommend sealing with Waterlox S/F and then using a Walnut gel stain to highlight the grain, and then topcoating with more Waterlox. I am not a huge fan of staining wood, I like to show the natural beauty of the wood, but I have spent a large amount of time on this project and I want it to be the best it can be.
Thanks in advance for any advice/ideas that you can offer :-D


Dave

 

[frigator]

I used this recipe a couple times and it came out well, really pops the flake. I used this on a blanket chest to match some stickley furniture we already had in our bedroom. Its a lot of steps, but came out very nice. Just make sure you dilute the dye. For the top coat I used old masters varnish, and just two thin coats. I think it best not to use too much top coat on oak.

http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/mission_oak.htm

 

[DaveO]

That is where I got the Waterlox and Walnut gel stain recipe. I think the Mission color is going to be to dark for SWMBO, I like it but I don't matter. The Early American stain gives a color similar to that but a lighter brown shade, about mid range with the Mission being at the top.
Dave

 

[NCPete]

I like it but I don't matter.
Dave

ah Hah! yet another among us who is HWMBI.... So sorry, DaveO. :lol:

 

[frigator]

Well its a two part coloring procedure, first you dye the wood, seal it, then use the gel stain like a glaze which darkens the pores, then topcoat it. I also threw a light wipe of linzeed oil in there before the shellac, not much, on and off, you dont want it oozzing out of the pores. I remember doing so many samples trying to get it to match the Stickley color.

 

[frigator]

I forgot to add, if you look at the bottom of the Jewitt recipe, he has several different variations that results in different colors. I seem to recall using the vintage maple transtint. The dye isnt absobred much by the flake, so it ends up highlighting the figue.

 

[Gillie]

I am frequently asked about my reproduction of the Stickley fumed oak finish.
This is the process that I have used successfully with white oak.
I am a professional and this is proprietary information to my business, but I am happy top help hobbyists along. All I ask of you in return is that you use this only for your own finishing purposes, do not publish it or give this information to anybody else. Allow me that pleasure.

"Fumed" Oak Finish

Sand the piece up through 150 grit. It's important to raise the grain because you'll be using a water-based product.

Use "Old Growth" (Fumed Oak) from Woodworkers Supplies as directed.
This is what gives it the "aged look".
It looks awful when applied (a grayish-brown). Don't worry -- this is right.

Then apply Garnet dewaxed shellac (I like the premixed 2lb shellac from www.woodfinishingsuppies.com )
Then apply Orange dewaxed shellac

Sand with 400 w/d lubed with mineral spirits
Wipe the piece down completely with mineral spirits and allow to evaporate.

Apply Blond dewaxed shellac
(The reason for the 3 tones of shellac is from the Dutch Masters artists that discovered the beauty and depth of "backcoating" their paintings).
This gives beautiful, rich tones to the wood as the light hits it.

So far, this process has intentionally minimized the grain pattern of the oak. Now you can gain your grain pattern by applying Behlen glaze (Van Dyke Brown). This allows you to control how much grain effect you get -- it's also "softer" than stains or dyes permit. By leaving little of the glaze in corners (not too much) it also increases the "aged look".
Allow this to dry.

Apply (with foam "brush") Waterlox Tung Oil Finish (semi gloss*) available from www.woodfinishingsupplies.com. Do NOT follow the directions. They say to wipe it off. Don't do that. Leave it on. Allow to dry overnight. *The reason for using semi gloss is because satin has light deadeners in it and it's not as clear as semi gloss. Don't use gloss either -- it takes too long to cure -- especially in humid climates.

Go over the piece with 0000 steel wool. Clean piece completely of all dust.

Apply a coat of satin Waterlox with a soft cloth.
After it's completely cured, apply a coat of a good quality paste wax and buff.

The results of his process is a finish that looks like it's 100 years old and has been well-cared for (as opposed to the "distressed" look where the piece is beaten with chains, etc and looks abused).

Good luck and happy finishing!

 

[dave_the_woodworker]

David,

I was surprised to see that your recipe started with "Old Growth" stain. I have a complete set of their two-part stains. I've experimented a little with them but have always been bothered by the fact that you really don't have much control over the color or intensity since you don't know what you've got until the two chemicals are done reacting. I like the control you get from the milti-step stain/glaze/toner approach. You can 'sneak up' on the final color and the depth of the finish is impressive.

But again, I'm glad to see that a pro uses these stains and would appreciate your comments about what you like/dislike about them. I may have to give them another try.

Dave

 

[Ray Martin]

Gillie,

That's a lot of steps to a finish. How long does the whole process take? Can you post a photo of a finsihed piece so we can see what the result looks like?

Ray