Project assembly - Is it wise to paint during dry-fit?

cmarzahn

Chuck
Corporate Member
I may not be following - are you thinking about assembling the pocket screws, removing them and then reinserting the pocket screws? My limited experience is that pocket holes don't like to be taken out and put back in

Rick
Yep... that was the idea. But I think the folks here in the forum have straightened me out some on that thought...
 

cmarzahn

Chuck
Corporate Member
I agree with the trailer comments. U haul has a 6x12 enclosed trailer that probably would hold it. They also have smaller ones. The 6x12 has surge brakes, I pulled one repeatedly with a smaller SUV than a Highlander. They also rent blankets you could use to protect it.

Or you could flat pack it. Do no assembly prior to delivery and put it all together there. It is much easier to finish horizontal surfaces. Tape over the joints will give the glue a chance to help make the finished piece rigid. Or you can carefully assess how much assembly can still be done and fit in the SUV.

I find when I try and do work away from my house that I always need tools that I have at home. My list of what to bring is never complete. It even happens to me when I volunteer at church where we have a fairly extensive shop available. I still want my tools including tools the church does not have but also sometimes the tools I am familar with. That is one reason I suggest getting a trailer. Nice to know it is done and you won't end up needing something you have at home but not there.
So. The current thinking is to build out the top and bottom sections completely, prime and paint them as assembled. Those two will fit in the back. Then take the longer, center section down to ATL as painted but not assembled. There should be enough pocket hole so i don't need to worry about glue.

Funny you should mention the list. I was building that list just last night. Keep thinking of things to add and that's well before I've left home and shop.

Sigh... I guess I'll make an appointment at the hitch shop tomorrow!
 

JohnnyR

John
Corporate Member
If you're going to assemble it first, make sure that it fits through the door! Where the vertical pieces meet the walnut, an unglued dowel may be all you need so you don't have to fuss with plugs.
 

Jeff

Jeff
Corporate Member
I have done several cabinets (base and wall) and drawers using no glue....just pocket screws and they have held up well.
My thoughts as well. I don't see any need for glue at all; he has a ton of pocket hole screws in the piece already.
If you're going to assemble it first, make sure that it fits through the door! Where the vertical pieces meet the walnut, an unglued dowel may be all you need so you don't have to fuss with plugs.
I missed something. Where is the walnut?
 

Jeff

Jeff
Corporate Member
If you're going to assemble it first, make sure that it fits through the door! Where the vertical pieces meet the walnut, an unglued dowel may be all you need so you don't have to fuss with plugs.
Where is the walnut?
 

cmarzahn

Chuck
Corporate Member
Just to close the loop and to say thanks all for the input.
In the end, it worked out to assemble the bottom section, the top section and the crown molding all separately prior to transport. I then took each of the back pieces and one "side" of the middle section and attached it to each back piece. That way they formed an "L" shape and I could easily nest them for transport. It also cut down on the assembly on-site.
So it went down to Atlanta and assembled neatly.
As a side note, I carried way too many tools being in fear of not having something I needed with me... (Left the table saw home!)
Thanks again for all the help!
Finished Mud Room Bench.jpg
 

Oka

Oka
Corporate Member
If you only need to plug the holes and they are not exposed visually on the finish side Dow 788P or 789P 788 has less expansion. I use 789 a fair amount, but either will fill the hole and will not sag. The 789 is the caulking they use on concrete panel construction to seal those wide seam that are 3/4-1" wide.... it will fill holes, the easy way, just depends on the type of finish you need/want. It can be painted
 

cmarzahn

Chuck
Corporate Member
If you only need to plug the holes and they are not exposed visually on the finish side Dow 788P or 789P 788 has less expansion. I use 789 a fair amount, but either will fill the hole and will not sag. The 789 is the caulking they use on concrete panel construction to seal those wide seam that are 3/4-1" wide.... it will fill holes, the easy way, just depends on the type of finish you need/want. It can be painted
??
 

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