Preferred glue to assemble bed with lots of spindles?

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fergy

New User
Fergy
I'm going to need something with a long open time, as I've got a 98 glue joints to assemble at one time, unless I try to do this up in pieces. I've got a feeling that might be the way I head, but I'll need to make some assembly jigs to do that to keep everything square.

This is for a king-size arts and crafts style bed, so I've got a ton of spindles. I'm leaning toward West Systems epoxy for this, and using the slow set to give myself some more open time. I can do this in a cold room as well, to increase my time.
 

Mike Camp

New User
Mike
I'm going to need something with a long open time, as I've got a 98 glue joints to assemble at one time, unless I try to do this up in pieces. I've got a feeling that might be the way I head, but I'll need to make some assembly jigs to do that to keep everything square.

This is for a king-size arts and crafts style bed, so I've got a ton of spindles. I'm leaning toward West Systems epoxy for this, and using the slow set to give myself some more open time. I can do this in a cold room as well, to increase my time.

Titebond III has a 10 minute open time and about 20 minutes give or take for assembly time, but that doesn't sound nearly long enough to glue about 98 joints.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
I'm going to need something with a long open time, as I've got a 98 glue joints to assemble at one time, unless I try to do this up in pieces. I've got a feeling that might be the way I head, but I'll need to make some assembly jigs to do that to keep everything square.

This is for a king-size arts and crafts style bed, so I've got a ton of spindles. I'm leaning toward West Systems epoxy for this, and using the slow set to give myself some more open time. I can do this in a cold room as well, to increase my time.

Wait till it gets cold out, that'll increase your open time :gar-La;. Seriously I think it was Bas that asked the same question once - might want to shoot him a PM or look here ---> http://www.titebond.com/ProductLineTB.asp?prodcat=1&prodline=12
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
DAP Weldwood, aka plastic resin glue aka urea formaldehyde glue. It has a very long open time and pot life. You can buy it at Ace Hardware, as a powder. Make sure it's fresh, it has a shelf life of one year. From the archives: On DAP Weldwood PRG there is a sticker on the container with a 7 digit code. Ignore the first 3 digits. 4th is the year. 5-7th is the Julian date. Toss it after 12 months.

The glue is a dark brown, does not creep like PVA (yellow) glue, and cleans up with water.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
As I try to wrap my head around a 49-spindle glue-up and imagine how frazzled my nerves would be given how stressful I find large (well, miniscule, actually, by your standards) glue-ups to be!

Just to throw in an off-the-wall idea here, if you can hide the holes (1/16" is plenty large enough) with some trim, or even putty, you could assemble the joints dry, square everything up, then inject the glue into each joint at your leisure (pre-drill the holes). I use a high-pressure syringe (with 1/32" tip) for doing just that when repairing some of the older/semi-antique furniture my parents like to pickup. It spares me from having to break apart all the other glue joints to fix a loose one, but there is no reason it could not be done on a much larger scale.

If you go this route, stick to water-based glues (PVA) so that you can clean and reuse the syringe (it is meant to be reusable). Between joints, place the syringe's tip in a cup of water to prevent the glue from drying prematurely and clogging the 1/32" orifice. I have used mine quite a number of times and it can be a real lifesaver.

One other suggestion if you choose to go this route: If you do not already have a 1/32" (or ever so slighty smaller) drill bit on hand, pick up the drill-bit set Dremel sells for their rotary multi-tool. The kit includes a 1/32" bit -- having such a bit on hand can be a lifesaver on cleanup if you accidentally allow the glue to setup and the tip has clogged.
 

fergy

New User
Fergy
Ah, I forgot to think about the PPR glue again. I was thinking about it when I started the project, but forgot it. I even have a bunch of it on-hand. I've wondered why people don't use it more, because it's a really nice glue to use. I've got a veneering project coming up so I need to order another bucket of it anyway, as the stuff I have is expired. I think that's the way to go.

Thanks, guys.
 

CDPeters

Master of None
Chris
Unless there is a compelling reason to do so, I would not glue the spindles. Maybe what I am imagining is not quite right, but my mind's eye sees a top and bottom rail, mortised or drilled for the spindles. The top and bottom rails are mortise and tenoned into the posts.

If that is the case, I think I would probably glue the post/rail M&T's and let the spindles float.

FWIW,
C.
 

fergy

New User
Fergy
Unless there is a compelling reason to do so, I would not glue the spindles. Maybe what I am imagining is not quite right, but my mind's eye sees a top and bottom rail, mortised or drilled for the spindles. The top and bottom rails are mortise and tenoned into the posts.

If that is the case, I think I would probably glue the post/rail M&T's and let the spindles float.

FWIW,
C.
They would need to be glued, as they are all tenons with shoulders, and I want them to fit tight. Also, they will lend a lot of structural integrity to the final "heft" and stiffness of the frame. Plus, there's a little bit of variability in the tightness of the fit of them, so it would have the potential for some rattle unless they're glued.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
My vote would be for the plastic resin glue. IIRC, DAP does not market it anymore under the weldwood name (all the "weldwood" now is contact cement). However, I believe the same original manufacturer is now marketing it under the name Cascophen G-1131. If anyone can give me a source for the Dap brand I would appreciate it.

However, if you cannot find that, an alternative would be polyurethane glue (gorilla glue, etc). I seldom use it, but have found it very valuable for complicated assemblies. Spread the resin in all the mortises, and then just spritz the tenon with water before sticking them together. The poly glue doesn't start to set up until the moisture is present. Just don't forget the clamps, as the expanding glue may try to push the joint apart.

Go
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
The spindles are larger but I've built two queen sized beds using the Woodsmith cherry plans which have slats across the headboard and footboard. The plans call for dados in 3/4 wood to be glued together to form through mortises on both the top and bottom rail of each. I changed the bottom rail and put little 1/4 inch wide mortise and tenon joints. The top piece has a through mortise. That way, I slide the spindles in after the large mortise and tenons are glued and clamped. I made the spindles tight so I had to tap them in place and they held pretty well without glue. A few were looser and those got clamped. I put a little glue on the top of each spindles and in the mortises at the bottom.

The fit of the spindles in the through mortises is not perfect nor does every dado line up with it's companion piece perfectly. But you have to stand on your head to see the fit and there is a cap piece that goes across the rails and legs.

I think this works well and saves the high tension glue-up.

Jim
 
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