Power Tool Table Polish
- Thread starter robliles
- Start date
About the only thing to avoid is anything with silicone in it because there a risk of getting it on the wood and spoiling the finish.
Bostic Glide Coat is nice to use. It used to be called Top Coat, I think, by Textron. Spray it on, let it dry, polish it in.
For a planer, I'll use smeared on paraffin between coats of Top Coat (I've still got a can or two).
Bostic Glide Coat is nice to use. It used to be called Top Coat, I think, by Textron. Spray it on, let it dry, polish it in.
For a planer, I'll use smeared on paraffin between coats of Top Coat (I've still got a can or two).
So that's what happened to cause my highly preferred TOP COAT to disappear. I've been in deep mourning since it disappeared from the store shelves; thanks Bob for setting me on the trail again!
I remember now.
Sandero Top Coat was the original and later Bostic started producing it instead of Textron.
Taken in 2006. My "stuff in spray cans" shelf. On the top is a can of the original Sandaro and the bottom is the newer styled Bostic can of Top Coat.
When I'd set planer knives for others, I'd always have a can handy. When no one was looking, I'd spray the bed and polish it up. It always made my work look good.
Sandero Top Coat was the original and later Bostic started producing it instead of Textron.
Taken in 2006. My "stuff in spray cans" shelf. On the top is a can of the original Sandaro and the bottom is the newer styled Bostic can of Top Coat.
When I'd set planer knives for others, I'd always have a can handy. When no one was looking, I'd spray the bed and polish it up. It always made my work look good.
What is your ratio of paraffin to spirits? Or do you just wing it?
Thanks
Thanks
I was wondering the same thing.
I suspect that the top coat stuff in a spray can is the same wax, but the solvent carrier is different and dries very quickly. Probably less than 60 seconds its ready to buff.
I suspect that the top coat stuff in a spray can is the same wax, but the solvent carrier is different and dries very quickly. Probably less than 60 seconds its ready to buff.
Takes very little paraffin. Usually about a couple spoons full (shaved) to a bottle of MS. Too much paraffin, and it will harden in sprayer of bottle. Also needs to be kept where it's warm, above 50 degrees F.
Back in the day when the WWII generation were still in the commercial woodworking shops, every planer and most every jointer had a shop-made sheet metal cup attached to the side of the machine or on a nearby post. The cup or holder was made for the size blocks of Gulfwax found in the grocery stores. They'd smear the wax on the bed in a zig zag pattern and that was it.
Judging the age of the machines that were in use, I expect this process had been in use since the 1930s.
Wax on a metal surface for wood processing is somewhat universal. How the wax gets there seems to vary with the individual involved.
Judging the age of the machines that were in use, I expect this process had been in use since the 1930s.
Wax on a metal surface for wood processing is somewhat universal. How the wax gets there seems to vary with the individual involved.
Better shot of Sandaro TopCote & Bostic
Great stuff
Great stuff
I use Johnsons Paste wax. If you have a non-climate-controlled shop, use a dust cover that can "breathe", like an old sheet or blanket. If you use plastic,etc., it will trap condensation under it causing many more rust problems. Also, don't let high acid woods like oak or walnut lay on your metal table, as they will also cause rust. For instance, the tannic acid in an oak push block can leave an imprint that is hard to remove.
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