Plywood edge finishing

RedBeard

Burns
Corporate Member
I just finished up a drill press table and veneered the drawer fronts with a bunch of 1/16” thick pieces of baltic birch ply. I used titebond hide glue to adhere to the fronts. What would be the best finish to use? My biggest concern is that the hide glue can break back down in the presence of water. This was done as more of a late night experiment and I know it will get beat up over time but want to protect it as best I can.
 

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Jeff

New User
Jeff
If the table isn't exposed to water the hide glue will be fine. Did you mean high humidity causing the glue to break down?

+1 to Zinsser Seal Coat or a spray on lacquer.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
If you want something simple and easy to brush or wipe, oil based poly is the most durable and looks OK.

I have given up playing with Zinnser, terrible stuff.
 

RedBeard

Burns
Corporate Member
Humidity is a little bit of a concern but not a big one. I didn’t read the bottle until after I had already glued everything down. It says that joints can be disassembled using water so I got paranoid that if I used the wrong finish it might soak through and break down the glue. This was the first time I’ve tried hide glue.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Humidity is a little bit of a concern but not a big one. I didn’t read the bottle until after I had already glued everything down. It says that joints can be disassembled using water so I got paranoid that if I used the wrong finish it might soak through and break down the glue. This was the first time I’ve tried hide glue.

You'll be fine as is. It's correct that hide glue joints can be disassembled with hot water, but the method is more involved than just sprinkling some water on the joint.

 

RedBeard

Burns
Corporate Member
You'll be fine as is. It's correct that hide glue joints can be disassembled with hot water, but the method is more involved than just sprinkling some water on the joint.


That was perfect. Thanks for the article.
 

Pop Golden

New User
Pop
If you want something simple and easy to brush or wipe, oil based poly is the most durable and looks OK.

I have given up playing with Zinnser, terrible stuff.

Gosh Willim, what's wrong with Zinnser? I've been using shellac for over 60 years of woodworking. I have stopped using regular 3 lb. cut and started using Zinnser SealCoat. It's 2 lb. cut dewaxed shellac. the thinner viscosity make it much easier to spray. After a discussion with a fellow worker who makes custom furniture I have adopted his method. Multiple coats of SealCoat (3 to 6) and oil based poly on all horizontal surfaces. Heck if it's good enough for very expensive antique reproductions and the Egyptians a thousand years ago it's good enough for my purposes.

Pop:)
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
I just finished up a drill press table and veneered the drawer fronts with a bunch of 1/16” thick pieces of baltic birch ply. I used titebond hide glue to adhere to the fronts. What would be the best finish to use? My biggest concern is that the hide glue can break back down in the presence of water. This was done as more of a late night experiment and I know it will get beat up over time but want to protect it as best I can.
I'm no hide glue expert, but it takes more than a little moisture to affect the joints. You should not have any issues with a water-based finish.

For shop furniture, I typically use Minwax polycrylic. It's affordable, water-based, dries fast, and you can spray or brush it. It can look a little plasticy if you build up too many coats, but it's shop furniture....

Oil based finishes are easier to apply, but take a lot longer to cure, and there's usually a smell. And it's more work to clean your brush.

The best finish is whatever 1/4 can you have left over and need to use up before it goes bad :)
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
Gosh Willim, what's wrong with Zinnser? I've been using shellac for over 60 years of woodworking. I have stopped using regular 3 lb. cut and started using Zinnser SealCoat. It's 2 lb. cut dewaxed shellac. the thinner viscosity make it much easier to spray. After a discussion with a fellow worker who makes custom furniture I have adopted his method. Multiple coats of SealCoat (3 to 6) and oil based poly on all horizontal surfaces. Heck if it's good enough for very expensive antique reproductions and the Egyptians a thousand years ago it's good enough for my purposes.

Pop:)
I have tried it multiple times and always end up throwing the can away. It takes a lot of effort to get a professional finish (automotive quality) compared to what technology provides today, a thousand years after the Egyptians used it. It takes too long to dry for sanding the seal coat, it does not scuff sand fast and I find it almost impossible to spray an automotive quality finish without sanding and buffing after spraying. The durability of Shelac on its own is an issue, does not handle water or food stains at all. Most think it is compatible as a seal coat for anything else. Not true.

Any professional pre-cat or post-cat finish available today will beat Shellac hands down in all aspects.

Why play around with multiple seal coats and a final coat, if the entire job can be done with only one seal coat followed by one final coat? 15 minutes between coats and a very light scuff sand after the first coat? Then have a durable finish which is stain and nail polish resistant.
 
Last edited:

danmart77

Dan
Corporate Member
My biggest concern is that the hide glue can break back down in the presence of water.
Water will not break it down any faster than standard yellow glue. You need heat and water to reactivate hide glue. Focus on the finish.

Lots of finishing options to consider here. This is a tool not a center piece in your house. Seal it and put a topcoat on and do some work.
 

RedBeard

Burns
Corporate Member
My biggest concern is that the hide glue can break back down in the presence of water.
Water will not break it down any faster than standard yellow glue. You need heat and water to reactivate hide glue. Focus on the finish.

Lots of finishing options to consider here. This is a tool not a center piece in your house. Seal it and put a topcoat on and do some work.

I agree it’s not furniture but between 2 small kids and work it usually takes a while to make something start to finish. So even with shop furniture I experiment with joinery, materials, design elements, finishes, etc. because if I didn’t do it on stuff like this I wouldn’t get a chance to do it at all. I’ve already started putting it to work. I don’t mind when it gets dinged and messed up.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
I know that you're partial to spraying lacquer and like the "automotive like professional finish" look that can be done quickly. That's fine.
Dewaxed shellac (like Zinsser SealCoat or made from dewaxed shellac flakes) is also a fine finish for many of us and it doesn't need to be a "professional looking" finish, just a nice one.

Dewaxed shellac is pretty durable on its own including water stains or food stains but it's not a good choice for kitchen counter tops or dining table tops.

I have tried it multiple times and always end up throwing the can away. It takes a lot of effort to get a professional finish (automotive quality) compared to what technology provides today, a thousand years after the Egyptians used it. It takes too long to dry for sanding the seal coat, it does not scuff sand fast and I find it almost impossible to spray an automotive quality finish without sanding and buffing after spraying. The durability of Shelac on its own is an issue, does not handle water or food stains at all. Most think it is compatible as a seal coat for anything else. Not true.

Any professional pre-cat or post-cat finish available today will beat Shellac hands down in all aspects.

Why play around with multiple seal coats and a final coat, if the entire job can be done with only one seal coat followed by one final coat? 15 minutes between coats and a very light scuff sand after the first coat? Then have a durable finish which is stain and nail polish resistant.
 

Willemjm

Willem
Corporate Member
I know that you're partial to spraying lacquer and like the "automotive like professional finish" look that can be done quickly. That's fine.
Dewaxed shellac (like Zinsser SealCoat or made from dewaxed shellac flakes) is also a fine finish for many of us and it doesn't need to be a "professional looking" finish, just a nice one.

Dewaxed shellac is pretty durable on its own including water stains or food stains but it's not a good choice for kitchen counter tops or dining table tops.
I can get a professional looking finish with Shellac. It just takes a whole lot more effort, and I disagree with the durability. Put a wet glass on it over-night and see what happens.

The thing is, no matter how much effort it takes to produce something really nice which can’t be “made in Asia” bought, the final finish can either enhance it, or completely spoil it.
 

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