I would appreciate any advice that someone can give. Chris, I did see that you made your router table. Did you go by any planes or just wing it?
John
John
Plans for router table
- Thread starter John Reeves
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I just finished up my new router table. I've got some pictures in my gallery, maybe they will give you some ideas, or at least somewhere to start! There are plenty of things I would change if I had it to do all over again, so the best advice I could give you is to carefully plan every aspect of the table before you start building it!
The Dec. '05 issue of Woodworker Journal has a very Norm-esque router table plan. Along with some good info on table routers and bit selection. I plan to get "inspired" by it when I make my new table next year. If you would like a copy I am sure we could work something out. Dave
Well...mine's definately nothing fancy. I took a sheet of 3/4 MDF and used a strait bit to plow out an area in the middle to a thickness of 3/8, just big enough for the router base. I located the screw holes, counter sunk them from the opposite side and made the bit-hole with a plunge bit once the router was attached with the screws. Two slots, two 1/4-20 bolts with wing nuts and a 2x2 piece of aluminum angle make up my fence. Throw it between two saw horses and you're good to go.
Super precise? Not exactly.
Pretty? Definately not.
Sufficient for someone with a limited budget and not much storage space? Yep, that sums it up.
Super precise? Not exactly.
Pretty? Definately not.
Sufficient for someone with a limited budget and not much storage space? Yep, that sums it up.
I'm about 80% finished with my new router table using Norm's plans. I stuck to his measured drawings very closely. If I were doing it over again I would make the top a little larger. It doesn't have enough overhang for clamping on all four sides and I believe that would have been helpful. Otherwise it is a great plan. I think it is a lot more elaborate than is needed, but one of my primary goals for building it was to polish up my shop skills after a 3 year absence.
I wouldn't want to give up the plans, but I would be willing to share the Cutlist printouts. I don't believe that would be a copyright violation. If you're interested in those PM me and I'll e-mail them to you.
I wouldn't want to give up the plans, but I would be willing to share the Cutlist printouts. I don't believe that would be a copyright violation. If you're interested in those PM me and I'll e-mail them to you.
I think I when I go to build my router table ( and I have been looking ) I like Norm's newer model the best ( Find that here ). Of course I'm also trying to decide between that and a router extension wing for my table saw, but not sold on the wing idea.
Check out this site for a some free plans on router tables. Also Popular Woodworking April 2005 issue has a plan for a fairly simple but sturdy bench top router table.
Clay,
Keep us posted on your thoughts on the TS extension wing. I've considered that approach since my shop is too small for a dedicated router table.
HTH,
Sapwood
Clay,
Keep us posted on your thoughts on the TS extension wing. I've considered that approach since my shop is too small for a dedicated router table.
HTH,
Sapwood
The latest issue of ShopNotes (Vol. 15 Issue 85) has a article and plans for a router table. I looks good and has storage space with it.
Clay / Sapwood,
I've had my router in my extension wing for years and it is a great location if you are limited on space. I am just now building a stand alone table because I have the room. To me the only limitation of putting it in the wing is that you can't leave it set up and have to change things when you use the TS. In reality, I found that was rarely an issue. If you think about it, it isn't that often that you are using a router and TS at the same stage of a project. It really only becomes a factor when you are doing something on a production basis or several projects at once. I built a hollow fence out of MDF that attached to my TS fence and you can collect dust by attaching a shop vac or dc connection at the end. If you have a decent TS fence, you'll love how easy it is to adjust your router fence and how solidly it locks down.
I've had my router in my extension wing for years and it is a great location if you are limited on space. I am just now building a stand alone table because I have the room. To me the only limitation of putting it in the wing is that you can't leave it set up and have to change things when you use the TS. In reality, I found that was rarely an issue. If you think about it, it isn't that often that you are using a router and TS at the same stage of a project. It really only becomes a factor when you are doing something on a production basis or several projects at once. I built a hollow fence out of MDF that attached to my TS fence and you can collect dust by attaching a shop vac or dc connection at the end. If you have a decent TS fence, you'll love how easy it is to adjust your router fence and how solidly it locks down.
sapwood said:
I believe Steve Coles has a router table in his extension wing and if I am not mistaking, he uses his incra fence for both. http://ncwoodworker.net/gallery/files/1/TSonMobileStand800.jpg Check it out. Nice setup. I have a standalone table I made which is shown in my gallery. Used to have my router table top hanging from my tablesaw wing (old ts) on hinges and would support it with a leg set I made whenever it was used. Worked fine but a standalone is the way to go if you have the space.
Mike
Mike
Norm's router table is a knock off of the American Woodworker Ultimate Router Table that was originally published when they were still in black and white. Later they republished it (about 91-92). Their switch was located horizontally, which means that it could be turned on by merely leaning against it while turning. Yes, I found out the hard way. I have a published letter to them concerning this. If you saw Norm's original router table, then you saw him go to AWW's "Temple of Woodworking". You will note that he specificately doesn't use a horizontal switch. When mounting a router in saw extension on a contractor saw, use the left wing instead of right wing. Usually the left side is more open, and stock feed direction is the same as table saw. Drill and tap a couple of holes in saw top for fence anchorage. I want to build a table that includes Norm's orginal fence, AWW's router lift (March 2004), and John White's carcass (FWW first anual tools issue.) There is a shop vac built into base of table.
DavidF said:
I thought you had the sliding table on the left side:eusa_thin
DavidF said:
I thought maybe you had a secret that you werent sharing:eusa_shhh
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